Spindle help for a numpty

[mattcullum]

I'm busy reading through the bible and now using (what I think is) the correct techniques of starting the cut am now getting a much better finish. I'm sure the sharp chisels are helping!

I am however confused about the spindle turning, i _think_ I have got the cove cut right but the bead one just does not make sense. Are there any you tube videos that show this clearly? (I couldn't spot any).

Oh and one more q, I think I need a drive center as this seems to be the way to hold a spindle, but as with most things "lathe" there are 2 prong 4 prong retractible tip, sprung tip etc etc. Do I need this? Or do I just the cheapest 1mt spiky bit of metal?

Thanks for all the help

Matt

 

[wizer]

To start with just get a 4 prong centre. I've seen people say that a 2 prong is better in some circumstances as it can drive deeper but generally 4 is more versatile. I've also heard mixed reviews on steb centres, so steer clear for the time being.

As for YouTube and spindle work. I have spent a lot of time on there and found little on spindle work. You might want to invest in a DVD. Do you have any turning DVD's at the moment?

 

[big soft moose]

this is quite good
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LK-T8PEDsP8

the only problem is that its in welsh but you can get an idea of whats going on from the pics

theres also this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEZ34vKI ... re=related

which is american - it might be a bit basic tho.

perhaps some of us ought to take a video camera into the 'shop and start doing some ukw turning tutorials

 

[wizer]

Cheers for that BSM. The first one I'd not seen before. It's good but not what i'd call educational.

 

[wizer]

did you see the guy's hand shaking in the second one? :shock:

 

[big soft moose]

Cheers for that BSM. The first one I'd not seen before. It's good but not what i'd call educational.

i like this one too - not remotely educational tho , unless you slow it down

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2eWGgA8 ... re=related

 

[big soft moose]

I'm busy reading through the bible and now using (what I think is) the correct techniques of starting the cut am now getting a much better finish. I'm sure the sharp chisels are helping!

I am however confused about the spindle turning, i _think_ I have got the cove cut right but the bead one just does not make sense. Are there any you tube videos that show this clearly? (I couldn't spot any).

in addition to the "bible" dave regesters "wood turning an individual approach" ISBN 1-86108-160-x is good on these techniques - but what you really need is someone to show you - unfortunately i am too far away but there must be forum members in your neck of the woods who could give you a demo

 

[TEP]

Hi Matt.

Steb centres are great if you are doing a lot of spindle work, but IMO a bit too expensive for just the odd few legs and so on. They don't half teach you to cut properly as well, they are no good for a ham fisted turner. :lol: If you get a dig the wood just stops which I suppose is good in some respects.

I agree that a four prong drive is OK and probably the best for general work. Two prong drives come into their own if you are using blanks with a slight angle on the end, rather than a square across cut. Often a four prong will slip on a angle end, but with a two prong you can set the prongs so both dig in equally and get a good grip.

Generally though a lot of it is just down to personal preference, they will all drive a piece of wood so just check out the prices first.

 

[Neil Dyball]

Hi Matt,

A few simple videos here;

http://www.turningtools.co.uk/videos/videos.html


Cheers,

Neil

 

[TEP]

Some good examples there Neil, not seen them before.

I would suggest anyone who tries the 'Raffan Cut' takes care, it can bite. Also if you note he is using a straight grind bowl gouge for this, not a spindle gouge.

 

[Neil Dyball]

Agreed Tam, not one I'd recommend for the inexperienced.... and that includes me.

Neil.

 

[Bob Chapman]

I've seen that cut before but never tried it. Looking at the clip again, he begins in the centre, with the gouge on its side (flute to the right), and then moves it vertically upwards and out to the rim.

Now imagine everything except the tool rest rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise: wouldn't you get exactly the same cut by starting at centre, gouge upright (with flute vertical) and then moving along the rest to the left and outwards to the rim.

In this way you get the same cut but with the benefit of proper tool support all the time. Or have I failed to notice something?

Bob

 

[Dave Atkinson]

I've seen the Raffan Cut on a Dennis White Video I got many years ago. It's not very difficult to master and makes short work of hollowing. I use it with a fingernail grind and it works a treat, although sometimes i go towards 2 o'clock. Great fun if you get a catch though!

Matt you mentioned cutting a bead. Mick Hanbury showed me a great way of doing this. Imagine that you are drawing the bead with your finger or thumb. So assuming you're right handed put your index finger in line with the flute and starting with your finger at 12 o'clock rotate your wrist 90 degrees and you will have described the right hand side of a bead. Apply gouge to timber and repeat - hey presto.

Similarly, to cut the left hand side of the bead point your thumb along the handle in line with the flute. Start at 12 o'clock and rotate your wrist 90 degrees to 9 o'clock.

It works like magic every time for me.

Hope it helps.
Dave

 

[TEP]

I believe the benefit of this cut is that you are supposed to cut on both sweeps of the tool. I guess it is supposed to remove twice as much wood as normal.

I've tried it and have yet to master it competently, the only person I have actually seen using it was Allan Batty during a demo quite a few years ago, and it does shift the wood.

 

[Jenx]

Agree with what Tam said ...

4 Prong for nice 'square' ends, 2 Prong if your piece of wood is not nice and square. ( not 'my knowledge' of course.. I just read it and did as I'd read :lol: )

I have a steb centre - the one specifically for the patriot...
and agree with Tam again.. its good from the point of view of a relative novice.. if you get a nasty dig, it basically just stops the wood form spinning and compounding the problem.
Especially valid if you have a reasonable powerful machine.. a good 'safety net' if you will.

Bit of an expensive extravagance I agree..
I do use it a lot, but thats cause it saves me having to remove the chuck from the machine .

I couldn't say 'I couldn't do without it', because that'd be wrong.
Its a 'luxury', but I'm quite glad I have it

 

[user 5053]

I just use the 3/4 inch skew and 1/2 inch spindle and can turn stuff out at a very fast pace and with very few moves. I use a revolving centre at the tail stock and 2 different sized 4 prong drives depending on the size of work.. The skew chisel is the most satisfying and rewarding turning tool there is and the tool most beginers struggle with. It means you can turn long runs of beautiful elegant items very quickly, requiring very liittle sanding and with stunningly elegant results.
All I can say is just keep practicing and like learning a musical instrument it will all fall into place.

 

[Scrums]

Not a lot to add really, though I'm glad that someone brought out the point about 4 prong drives only really working on square ended material.

I don't think the original poster mentioned whether he had a chuck, I tend to do most of my spindle work with the spindle gripped in a chuck, a bit wasteful on wood - you loose an extra 35mm or so when you part off, but advantages are there: shortish stuff like garden dibbers and the like can have their ends almost fully rounded - obviously the business end is at the tailstock. Stool legs are good too by this method, floor end at the chuck, almost part off - snip on the bansaw and a quick disc sand.

Even a spigot chuck is good, depends what jaws you've got in - but Axminster 'C' jaws will hold square stock up to about 50mm tight as anything.

Chris.

 

[mattcullum]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I do have a chuck, its a precision combination chuck - although like most things "lathe" its somewhat of a mystery to me.

I do have the manual not that it helps alot, and I may or may not have all the bits, there are several jaws, some of which I can make work but there are a nice set of 4 jaws that use an elastic band that i cannot understand, they look like they should have an inner bit to expand them...I think I need to hit the web to find some pictures!

just when I suss one but another comes along to confuse me all over again!