Spear and Jackson brand new resharpenable saw.

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Fat ferret

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I now have two 24" 7tpi spear and Jackson crosscut after buying anew from ebay for 25 pounds, new from factory made in Britain. I already had one exactly the same I rescued from a skip when I was at college and it's my every day saw for general joinery. 3/4 of my hand sawing. Here they both are.
https://flic.kr/p/pZFjwR

My old ones lost a bit of meat over the years, I sharpen it about once every 3 months. Few words of wisdom on the new saws cardboard sheath and handles close up. Almost identical.
https://flic.kr/p/pHhLx3
https://flic.kr/p/pHfSrT

Couple of points about these saws. They are quite coarse cutting. I use a 10tpi panel saw instead when I need the end grain to look nice. I keep a fair bit of set on these for cutting wet wood and the new saw has a similar amount. To me they feel much nicer to use than the bacho hard points I buy for plasterboard. The saw does the work. The plate is thicker, parallel not taper ground btw. They cut quickly and are easy to sharpen, the steel holds its edge without being brittle. They don't bend permanently very easily and if you do bend them they can be bent back easily. I have never kinked one and you'd have to be pretty clumsy to do so.

Now to give the new one a go. It feels heavier and takes slightly less effort to use than my old one but doesn't start quite as easily. The plate feels stiffer. Maybe made like that but I recon mine has lost some of its spring. My old one was sharpened a few weeks ago but is still keen. Teeth for comparison. Also a chunk of white pine I sawed with each. Both cut dead true. The new saw cuts a bit cleaner than the old but I think that's due to the old being a little dull, when just done I recon its still slightly behind. My sharpening, the saws or files used I don't know. Will be able to tell when I need to sharpen both next.
https://flic.kr/p/p3WDPM
https://flic.kr/p/p3Uf7S
https://flic.kr/p/pHfMxK

Anyway they are both damn good for carpentry type work. Here's the thing lads, hard points, ARE WASTEFUL. I have had the old saw three or four years now sharpening every two to three months. If I bought hard points for all that cutting I would have used up maybe 10? OK you can send the metal for scrap but all those plastic handles would end up in landfill, I would have spent 70-80 quid on saws too. True I use hard points for plasterboard but had the same one for years now and it keeps on ripping the stuff up. I hate the idea of a tool you are meant to throw away. The new saw will last me years. There's about 25mm of saw to sharpen before it would become un useable. So at half a mill per go 50 sharpenings, at my current rate of nearly daily use thats 12 and a half years, probably longer. So one saw for 25 quid or a whole pile of hard points, I know which I would rather.

Sharpening takes a timed 15mins or longer if I need to set the teeth which is ones every 3 or 4 goes. I only take maybe 2-3 file strokes for a sharpening. OK it's a skill but not that difficult on big teeth like these especially if your saw is good to start with.

Ok forgive me father for I have went on. But seriously good saw, excellent value for money and would make an ideal first softpoint if you want to renounce your hard point saw sins!
 
That really is a blast from the past. I bought a Spear and Jackson Saw circa 1979 when I first started out as an apprentice it looked just like your original. In 1982 I won a Disston. There simply was no comparison. I agree that Hard Point saws on the whole are not environmentally friendly but few people these days can sharpen a panel saw in 15 minutes.
Thanks for the memory.
 
Thanks for the run down. I'm trying to master saw sharpening at the moment, but I've yet to get to grips with setting (although that's partly because of the second-hand set which I don't know how to use properly I think). Which set do you use?
 
I have recently put my hard-point saws away and replaced them with second-hand sharpenable ones off ebay. So far so good, following Paul Seller's Utube on sharpening. Only filing at 90^ at the moment, still have to master fleam and hopefully it will come OK. It's satisfying also to clean up the handles - varnish remover, sandpaper, and finishing oil.

John
 
I've always done my handles with linseed - it seems to give a softer, more tactile finish than finishing oil - not that there's anything wrong with finishing oil, of course.
 
Eclipse one. The numbers are just numbers though, you will learn how little set youcan get away with with experience. Most important things are good sharp files and consistant angle. :)
 
I have one exactly the same as your older one - rescued from the 'metal' bin at the tip, complete with its cardboard sleeve. It had a slight kink. It has one no longer :)

I have the matching rip saw too. Neither are very sharp right now, as the saw vice I won on eBay arrived with the G-clamp sheared off and is waiting for a day when I'm running SS wire in the MIG.

I take your point about minimal set, too. I've found the trick is to keep the saw plate clean and waxed, and not put a huge set on the teeth. I also use the rip saw upside down when cutting panels, although I rarely do that by hand nowadays as I have a track saw.
 
I agree with the OP that hard point saws are wasteful and in these days of recycling everything possible and avoiding wasting resources I'm surprised the Government hasn't tried taxing them in some way to discourage their use. However I use them :oops: even though I find them too aggresssive and not nice to use compared with a traditional saw. So my new year's resolution will be to get out the old Spear & Jackson saws and practice hand sharpening again (hammer)

Regards Keith
 
Good stuff. I have the rip too but it gets little use. It's good when you don't have a paralel edge to run the circular saws fence off. Say the last floorboard your laying is 2" at one end and 4 at the other.

The new saws do come very sharp. Look like they are done on a machine. I sharpened my old one the other day after using it to cut a whole pile of kingspan :oops: It's almost as good as the new one. The heavier weight of the new one might actually be all the difference.
 
I have the exact same saw I recently (last 3-4 months) purchased off Amazon.
So far it has proven to be a decent saw. Still looking for my old Diston saws. I had two but have no idea where they have gotten to.
 
Would you / anyone still recomend these? Looking to get a ripping saw and was going to get a hard point to get some miles in with as it were before spending more serious money on sometihng more decent; that said, if these are still going for £25 or so, I might give it a go instead as a reasonable half-way point...

I found this a good thread too - lots to think about! https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/tenon-saw-advice-t104723.html
 
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