speaker box edge profile help

[Lark]

first of all will be mdf with veneer over the top

the front and back parts with be on the outer.(goes over the side parts)

the front only..... might profile the edges but not 100% sure of the way to go about it.

weather like real wood banding with router edge. eg chamfer

i know there was couple of people on here who have done it so maybe they could help.

ruff step by step... as in
glue front onto the box then
router edges with straight bit so banding could be added. then veneer.
(how do you then cut the veneer) easy when the sides are normal.
then glue banding and flush trim
then use the profile e.g chamfer.


hope i have explained it well enough to understand
thanks

 

[BradNaylor]

hope i have explained it well enough to understand
thanks

I think I understand!...

I use veneered MDF for most of my work and have found over the years that the best way to do it is to cut all your componant parts undersize and then glue on decent sized lippings (20mm or so) to both edges. Trim the lippings with a router and then cut the componants to their finished sizes.

You can now treat all your componants as though they are solid wood. It may sound a little labourious but doing it this way makes life far easier than trying to apply lippings to an assembled piece.

I hope I have explained it well enough to understand!

:lol:

Cheers
Dan

 

[Sawdust]

Lark,

I built my sub the way Dan has described and it worked a treat.

My speakers were done slightly differently:

I started with 19mm veneered MDF, cut to size with mitred corners and then edged with iron on veneer edging strip.

I then glued up the whole cabinet including all internal baffles.

Next I ran a router with a straight bit along both top edges, front to back to remove a 10mm square channel. Having done this I machined a couple of pieces of (approx) 11mm square solid ash, glued these in the channels and then trimmed them flush with a flush trim bit in the router.

Finally, I made another solid piace for the front, machined this to shape and glued it to the front.

Hopefully, this and a pic explains what I mean. It makes sense to me anyway!

I don't have any work in progress pics or any pics of the sub but here is a pic of one of the main speakers:

Cheers
Mike

 

[Jake]

I don't have any WIP, but I'll post a pic of mine. I used 3 layers of 18mm mdf for the front panel, and then had a custom spindle cutter done which cut a 45 degree segment of a circle and bunged the whole thing across the cutter with the panel vertical and horizontal, to get a 90 degree radius of about 3"-4" diameter (for dispersal). The big diameter meant I could just bend the veneer over the curve. I doubt my technique is very transferable and there are no doubt better ways of doing it - it was my first woodworking project.

 

[Lark]

hey dan i can still do it that way as i have left the front and back not even cut down to size. and have enough beech wood to do that.
guess as no screws would be used need to be a good glue, could always seal from the inside, as well give the rest screws before veneer for the strenght.

sawdust
that strong enough. i fort mitre corners where weaker. and no screws
and then the adding of the solid wood was the way i sort of trying to say.

i would have got some veneer mdf just as i have to buy hole big sheet around £50 plus shipping. never used it to see how well cuts and so on.

and would love to see the pic jake not sure the profile/router bit might be big enough like yours to then bend the veneer round

 

[Lark]

so basicly
if i cut the pannel i want just smaller venner it then glue real wood to the sides then glue that onto the box that will be strong enough to last with out any screws ?

 

[Sawdust]

so basicly
if i cut the pannel i want just smaller venner it then glue real wood to the sides then glue that onto the box that will be strong enough to last with out any screws ?

There are no screws in my cabinets and they are plenty strong enough. You can always brace inside if you want to just to be sure

Mike

 

[Lark]

ok thanks i will add couple screws in the "middle sheet i call bracing think you might call it baffles"....... and the top, bottom, sides, back or nail gun if i end up buying it next thursday. and then tibond glue for the front. sounds good

and make the jig or something to help the hole for the binding post.has to wait a week till next week as im away