Wanted Someone to set up my bandsaw SY S66

[Raymond UK]

I have a Record Power BS250 and have been using this for the last 5+ years. One of the wheel tyres needed replacing so I replaced both just in case. I cannot to get this machine running without the blade running off. The best I got was the blade running in the centre of the top wheel but it was on the edge of the bottom wheel.

I have spent nearly 3hrs on this and losing the will to live.

Is there anyone who can set this up for me. Payment in return.

I have now put it to one side and started using my old Clarke bandsaw so I can at least carry on working.

I'm in Rotherham South Yorkshire and here 90% of the time

Thanks in advance

 

[Jameshow]

Are the bearing ok?

I suspect they are cheap on a machine like this and as such wear quickly and cannot hold the wheels vertical and therefore cannot hold the blade on??

 

[sawdustandwax]

I can take a look if you like, might just need a second pair of eyes to spot the obvious. Not claiming to be an expert but spent tooo many hours rebuilding mine from a box of bits with a missing top wheel assembly. Would have to be into next week, probably late afternoon when I'm passing. PM me to arrange.

 

[Ttrees]

The best I got was the blade running in the centre of the top wheel but it was on the edge of the bottom wheel.

Adjusting the "jacking screws" for the bottom wheel sounds like the answer to me.
If the shaft is moved north, the blade will track towards the centre of your wheel.
Sounds like you may have been trying moving the shaft the opposite direction.

Tom

 

[Graham Brazier]

I have the same issue with the same bandsaw the guy I bought it from had , had enough of it so I took a chance and bought it , played with it for ages , the blade would constantly come off the bottom wheel , top wheel was fine with the teeth , gullet central to the wheel

I changed the wheel tyres also which helped a bit

I used the info in the link to adj the lower wheel axle angle which helped a lot ,

It works but far from perfect shakes a bit also but I can use it

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/attachments/page-2-jpg.133721/

 

[Ttrees]

If that happens then time to check east/west with a straight edge on both wheels,
laser or custom made jig.
Grizzly suggest the table off and beam in a video
Seems they can get without using a block to register against a single wheel?


Blade installed to check

Holding that beam/straight edge with one hand and checking with the other

Drive belt loose whilst setting up, making sure of no fouling, and test without a blade installed.

General had a jig for the job

 

[Raymond UK]

Are the bearing ok?

I suspect they are cheap on a machine like this and as such wear quickly and cannot hold the wheels vertical and therefore cannot hold the blade on??

I think the bearings are okay as the wheels have no play and it has been running good for years. The tyres I have fitted are flat to the wheel with no uneven bits. I remember this being a nightmare to set up when I bought it as I changed the standard blade for a Tuffsaw one. Ever since it has been fine.... until I changed the tyres

 

[Raymond UK]

I can take a look if you like, might just need a second pair of eyes to spot the obvious. Not claiming to be an expert but spent tooo many hours rebuilding mine from a box of bits with a missing top wheel assembly. Would have to be into next week, probably late afternoon when I'm passing. PM me to arrange.

That would be great actually. I'll send you a PM. I'm here most of the time next week or any week to be fair. I'm a good coffee/tea maker too

 

[Raymond UK]

I have the same issue with the same bandsaw the guy I bought it from had , had enough of it so I took a chance and bought it , played with it for ages , the blade would constantly come off the bottom wheel , top wheel was fine with the teeth , gullet central to the wheel

I changed the wheel tyres also which helped a bit

I used the info in the link to adj the lower wheel axle angle which helped a lot ,

It works but far from perfect shakes a bit also but I can use it

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/attachments/page-2-jpg.133721/

I'll try and have a read of that over the weekend. I have changed both wheel tyres already (which started all this) It used to work flawlessly and even better now I'm back working on my old Clarke mini bandsaw....

 

[Raymond UK]

Nigel @sawdustandwax came round last Wednesday to have a look and we managed to get it running without the blade running off. It's not perfect but it runs. So far so good.

Thanks for popping by

 

[jimbob01]

great to hear there are some nice helpful people around!

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Nigel @sawdustandwax came round last Wednesday to have a look and we managed to get it running without the blade running off. It's not perfect but it runs. So far so good.

Thanks for popping by

Hi if you look at pic showing back of wheel and belt to motor looks to me running out of line like bearing/housing worn/bent etc

 

[Ttrees]

Hi if you look at pic showing back of wheel and belt to motor looks to me running out of line like bearing/housing worn/bent etc

It seems you may be referring to my machine.
Aye, you have spotted the Achilles heel in regards to design on pretty much every welded saw out there.

I can only guess a flange or face mounted motor is smoother, that is...
if this seemingly ubiquitous methodology of construction regarding machine frames
doesn't decide to take a warp whilst being welded.
Perhaps it's just too costly to make a foot mounted motor ?

If I was buying a new machine, I would look closely at the base for twist, stand back and look at the simple things, guidepost parallel,
and how parallel the machine is plonked onto the base in the first place.
Does it rock to and froe with a single finger.

Whether I'm correct about warpage, or be it other negligent reasons for the base to be deformed on this saw by previous owner
(The new machine before it, which I returned, came in a boxed pallet (undamaged) and was similar affair, hence my reasoning behind this.

Now it sits level, and it doesn't rock about so much
If I didn't have a sound adjustable base to put it on, I might have started with a hammer,
but was too lazy to dismantle everything.
I've also made up some screws for threading on each corner.

Sorry bit sidetracked there,
Getting to why this might be a clue whether one might have chanced upon a lemon...

No guarantee that panel which the flange mount motor is bolted to is accurate
in relation to the top wheel, (as that's the one which is not adjustable)

No problem you might say...
You could simply shim the motor by taking a grinder to the ring you make

The only problem with that is, the pulley is already very far out on the shaft,
so the motor cannot be shimmed further.

Possible solutions to this maybe changing the belt for a longer one,
I haven't tried yet.

And if not possible, cut & weld a plate in place which will be in-line with the top wheel
Checked with the pencil taped onto the beam, to mark the floor,
whilst using a shorter one for the motor pulley aswell.
That should make things a bit more solid.

So good idea I suppose, is to spot how far the pulley is onto the shaft,
Noting on the newer machines, that panel is indeed a bit closer to the wheel.
Seems the right thing to do, if my longer belt don't work,

AND if that doesn't fix it like a Rolls Royce, then I'm buying a DTI.
and looking into balancing the wheels with a decent jig.

You might not even be on about my machine, but thought I'd share some potential issues anyway.
All the best
Tom

 

[Jester129]

Tom, I feel your pain. That is more than a lemon, isn't it (without wishing to sound sarcastic)?
Be positive, you'll get it sorted out. Hope you got it for a really good price.
ATB.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

Part of the issues with anything made on a flat plane ie sheet steel without some form of shaping/reinforcing there prone to warping not just from welding but a load like a tight belt compounded by load being further out.
Can't remember all names as forgot but knew a lot about it when was fabricating esp with heat! Had it when fabricated some safe hinges into box section when was making security gates so the heat drew box steel due to heat on one side more but soon sorted with cramps!

 

[Ttrees]

Tom, I feel your pain. That is more than a lemon, isn't it (without wishing to sound sarcastic)?
Be positive, you'll get it sorted out. Hope you got it for a really good price.
ATB.

Troublesome bandsaws are nothing unheard of, plenty of new machines by all brands which I see rocking about.
It could be lots worse, like the bore of the wheels being damaged or out of round,
or other bad casting issues regarding the wheels.
I don't have the equipment to fix those important issues.


I bought this machine for 500 euros, in a non running neglected state with damaged bits, it'll be a lifetime machine when it's running sweet, and I'd still favour the Italian design/components over any other machine designed today, well maybe I'd swap it for a newish Centauro C600, but I'd be loosing out on some resaw capacity, and
I can make this machine stouter if necessary down the road.

So depending on what you term value or a good price, it might depend on how much your time is worth.
If my pulley is in alignment, I was thinking I could buy a deeper pulley which might work,
The 640 machines have two belts, but the pulley looks a bit similar, perhaps one could find something longer.

If not the case, then it's the same deal for any saw new or old,
so if not prepared to do lots of work to get a machine running as sweet as it possibly can, then one better look to see if there's any available "adjustment"

One can see I don't have any, as the pulley is so far out.

One can see a nice meaty donut on this Formula machine.
I guess you won't see this on many machines, but if you did,
it would be a good failsafe.

Tom

 

[Alexam]

I have a Record Power BS250 and have been using this for the last 5+ years. One of the wheel tyres needed replacing so I replaced both just in case. I cannot to get this machine running without the blade running off. The best I got was the blade running in the centre of the top wheel but it was on the edge of the bottom wheel.

I have spent nearly 3hrs on this and losing the will to live.

Is there anyone who can set this up for me. Payment in return.

I have now put it to one side and started using my old Clarke bandsaw so I can at least carry on working.

I'm in Rotherham South Yorkshire and here 90% of the time

Thanks in advance

The attached may help you

I have a Record Power BS250 and have been using this for the last 5+ years. One of the wheel tyres needed replacing so I replaced both just in case. I cannot to get this machine running without the blade running off. The best I got was the blade running in the centre of the top wheel but it was on the edge of the bottom wheel.

I have spent nearly 3hrs on this and losing the will to live.

Is there anyone who can set this up for me. Payment in return.

I have now put it to one side and started using my old Clarke bandsaw so I can at least carry on working.

I'm in Rotherham South Yorkshire and here 90% of the time

Thanks in advance

Hopefully you may have sorted this out, but just in case ..........
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW

'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well. His updated version also here -

The following video may help some owners with a Record BS400, but it is similar to most machines blade changes -

Blades can run and cut without any guides whatsoever () as long as the machine is tuned correctly. This is how the blade should be running BEFORE the guides are brought into play on your machine, so that they can 'bump back' the blade should it wander, so please dont get guides near the blade before you know it is running clear and staying in the same place.



CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -

and

Tuning a bandsaw is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.

BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... Tuff Saws

TUNE WITH SOUND ? How to set your bandsaw tension with a GUITAR TUNER ( UNPROVEN )

Whenever you put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-

....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).

That's the first priority before closing in guides and support/thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.

Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?

Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ? IMPORTANTLY, your guides should all have a locking mechanism and it ius important to make dure that you have tightened those locks tightly. \If not, vibration could allow the guides to move closer and possibly lock the blade.

Make sure that the blade tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.

If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.

Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust and sap can stick in the teeth gullet and side of the blade. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis. Methalated spirit is good for removing the sap resin if it has built up and don't forgrt to check the wheels for this type of build up.



Carter blade Stabilizer - by Alex Snodgrass. https://youtu.be/w_tv7cm0-VU

This video shows how well a stabilizer works for smaller blades with the guide only above the table. I have one of these which works well. The back of the blade gullet is also on the centre line on the upper wheel as per his usual advice. Product Range - http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer


Finally, if you have an older machine with 3 phase connections, this following video may help


https://youtu.be/ZqnfLHhuuUQ = 3 phase converter



Good luck with your woodworking.

Malcolm - [email protected]

Location - B47 5QZ

 

[johnnyb]

just to add. I had a few cheap bandsaw and the were very very fussy to set up. the startrite 301 could at least be set up to run in the guides. eventually I got a hammer n4400 and I've never set it up.in respect to tracking. I've done many other things as its broken bearings belts even the bottom guide replaced with a generic one. but the tracking I've never moved. I guess the frame is solid enough that when it's right no matter what blade it's right. the pinion on the table collapsed the other day I just won't replace it. so it's not high high quality but it does work.
maybe that gives a hint as to why these machines are so troublesome.

 

[Spectric]

When I had issues with my BS400, the advice that really helped was that it could cut without any guides so to me that meant the basic setup did not require the guides to be fitted until I had the wheels co plannar as per Snodgrass and a blade running correctly positioned on the top wheel. Then fit the guides and adjust which has delivered. I also used to blame the saw for bad cuts but have since realised that was just me being lazy and not fitting the right blade for the task in hand, too many teeth that would clog and make the blade veer offline.

 

[Ttrees]

From what I've seen some folk can manage resawing with finer teeth than others, even with an old blade.
That's a 3 TPI blade on that grizzly with the powerfeed.
The blade isn't liking it, but it's working well none the less.
Pretty much against the advice of what you might expect.