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i have never quite made it there- it is always in the wrong direction.

There is a place neer York that will probably have something suitable, but it is plenty far enough away, and again I never seem to head over that way.
 
I might be waving a red flag here but to me that is all wrong! The dovetails in the side is a very poor joint to use there, any stress on it and the short grain in the pins will just break and then the base that takes all the weight is just butted on. The whole thing is just for show. Please don't copy it, improve it.
 
how would you join it, Chris? i hadnt picked up on the dovetail issue. I had questioned in my mind the base joint- i think that woud either rebate it into a grove or produce a fielded panel.
 
Sorry Den, I clicked on the message to take me to the last one on the thread and must have missed yours by doing so.

To be honest, they are not quite what i am looking for, but for reasons that I havent mentioned. When I saw the box, i thought that it would make a nice present for my father, but that I would make a practice one for myself first because it looks handy. Since it is a gift, I would like to use something a bit more decorative, hence the suggestion of SYP, larch or Doulas Fir, rather than what I can get from Lavers (redwood of mixed quality). I think that the box will end up at about 3/4 thick, so i think that your boards would be a touch thin by the time I had removed any finish. I am grateful for the offer though.
 
No problem Marcros, I too like the look of the box and might even nick your idea at some point even though I'm unlikely to use it
 
Dragon Timber & Plywood, Stanningley.
http://www.dragontimber.co.uk/

I agree the joinery is iffy. A tongue and housing (plus perhaps some toenails) to replace the dovetails would probably have greater structurally integrity. Slainte.
 
Hello,

If Richard's method does not suit aesthetically, (though structurally sound) and you prefer dovetails, then let the grain run around the box, as it should with dovetails, and add the uprights to the outside of the end pieces. Attach with dowels or screws/nails to suit yourself, just glue at the centre 1/3 of the upright to allow a bit of movement. More complicated, the uprights could be M&T,d into the end panels, as deeply as you can do, and then pegged for strength. This allows the uprights to be flared at the tenon shoulder, to look like the box you refer to.

Mike.
 
marcros":jz8tq9eu said:
Thanks. Joint wise, would a mortice and loose tenon work, in the same way that the domidrawer is made, http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-pr ... revisited/
They would be a 6mm x 30mm cross section through tenon.
A bit poncey and overblown for what's nothing more than the very basic type of tool tray I've been intermittently knocking out over the decades in an hour or so since I was about twelve years old. The only difference between what we used to make and the example you showed is that it too is poncey, and we used to use a bit of plywood for the job expecting the thing to get bashed about - it's a tool tray after all. I've never seen much point in toolboxes, workbenches, tool stands and the like being high on the bling factor, and prefer the bling (if there's to be any) to be in the point of the whole exercise, i.e., the furniture produced.

You could also go with something following Mike's suggestion, but that's a little more complex. Slainte.
 

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