Smoothing plane

[Big John]

After watching an item on Finewoodworking.com I have decided to get a smoothing plane to go with my LA block, LA jack and shoulder planes (all Veritas). Given the time of year, and the outside chance of getting to Harrogate, my beloved is looking to buy me this as a pressie. The question is which one do I go for (ALL is not an economic option).
Looking in the Rutlands catalogue there appears a choice between a LA, BU, No4, No4 1/2 and perhaps even the 5 1/4 W.
I think I'll go with the most popular choice, given the likelihood that people will all go for a different one.
The main use will be smoothing jointed boards.
Thanks in advance.

 

[woodbloke]

One aspect is your budget in my view. If you want to buy a Record or Stanley then an older one needing a little bit TLC is far better than a new one...I'm reliably informed by someone in the trade that the new Record planes are now made in China and are probably worth steering clear of :wink: Of the more upmarket planes, your choice then comes down to BU or BD. I have a couple of the Veritas BU planes and they are superb...but then so is a LN BD smoother. At the end of the day and all things considered :roll: I feel that the best thing to do is to try out all the different options and see which one you are most comfortable with...best place to do this is one of the shows - Rob

 

[katellwood]

have you considered a clifton???

 

[woodbloke]

Paul Chapman has a the whole range of the Clifton planes (I think his wife knows :lol: ) and having tried them all, they are without doubt excellent, 'specially the No6 which he's lucky to still have :wink: - Rob

 

[newt]

Rob, I saw a picture of Pauls no 6 the other day, as you say he is lucky to still have it. I suspect if I had hidden it somewhere during the recent visit he probably would have missed it and may have got a tad angry. Still I think it may be the next plane for me, when I can lift it.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Did someone call

Yes, I have the Cliftons #3, #4.5, #6 and #7. They are all superb. But then so are Veritas and Lie Nielsen. I also have a couple of Records with Clifton blades and cap irons and I've flattened the soles on these so they work well - but not as well as the Cliftons.

As Rob suggests, it's best to try before you buy because which planes are "best" is often a very personal thing.

If you want it for final finishing, you might also want to add (in addition to the plane, not instead of) a Veritas #80-style scraper. I've been using one lately and on very difficult grain, where even the best planes have problems with tear out, they are like magic. And very easy to use and sharpen http://www.brimarc.com/home.php3?page=p ... _106_22_10 Suggest to the wife that it would make a nice stocking-filler at Christmas 8-[ 8-[ :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS According to the programme for the Harrogate show, Mike Hudson of Clifton will be there (on the Turners Retreat stand) demonstrating the full range of Clifton planes. He's a very nice and helpful bloke and you'll be able to try out all the planes.

 

[Philly]

John
The BU Smoother is an awesome smoother - best out of your list (and I've owned and used most of them :lol: ) You won't regret it!
Cheers
Philly

 

[Woody Alan]

If it's pure smoother you want, I have to agree with Philly, Veritas BU smoother. Although in terms of popular choice I doubt it'll get another mention, not sure how many others have one. Can be flexible with another bade at different bevel too.

Alan

 

[Escudo]

John,

I am not an expert but Alan makes a good point. The LV BU smoother has the same blade size as the Low Angle Jack you already have.

This means you can interchange the blades and have different bevels on each blade.

I saw the BU smoother at Classic Hand Tools last week, it is not pretty and also not suitable for a shooting board but looked very workmanlike.

Hope my five pence worth is useful.

Regards,

Esc.

 

[WellsWood]

FWIW I got the nod yesterday about an impending price rise on Clifton's - in the region of 6% I'm told. It's not a huge amount, but it's going to make them that much less attractive price-wise against LV and the like.

 

[Digit]

Never having the funds for some of the more exotic planes my solution over the years has been much simpler. Buy second hand Stanley or Record planes, older the better, junk the iron and replace with an iron from an old wooden equivalent.
Bristol tools? I believe have followed this source also for their irons.
I don't know how this conversion compares with a Clifton, for example, but I enjoy hand planing for a finish and I recently rejected a substantial offer for a break front display cabinet that I built. Mind you it did take me 6 months to produce in Oak and some of the grain was diabolical!

 

[Aled Dafis]

Digit

I have both a Clifton #3 (that I picked up half price as a "B grade" - only difference is that it has a small B lightly stamped on one of the wings ), and a Veritas BU smoother, and I'm afraid to say that my favourite is BOTH!!

The Clifton is indispensable for small jobs and the O1 steel is really easy to sharpen to a wicked edge. On the other hand, the BU smoother is equally as indispensable on larger jobs and on really wicked grain, the A2 steel is, on the other hand, slightly harder to sharpen to a wicked edge, but lasts a little longer

So i'm afraid the answer has to be both. :twisted: :twisted:

Regards

Aled

 

[Digit]

I'm retired Aled and that sort of money doesn't come my way I'm afraid, hence plan B! But I'd be happy for you to give me demo when you're passing, I live in Tremain. :lol: :lol:

 

[Paul Chapman]

I don't know how this conversion compares with a Clifton

I've found that with thicker blades and better cap irons and with a bit of work on the sole to get it flat, you can get older Records to work very well. However, I've found that the increased weight of Clifton planes helps them to perform better on difficult woods. Also the ease with which you can adjust the Bedrock frog (ie without taking the plane apart) encourages you to adjust the mouth to get it just right to suit the particular piece of wood you are planing. Closing up the mouth, combined with a finely set blade, really does help in avoiding tear out.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS There was a very interesting article by David Charlesworth in the May 2007 issue of Furniture & Cabinetmaking about back bevels and their effect in reducing tear out. Well worth reading for those interested in fine finishing work with planes, whether bevel up or bevel down.

 

[Big John]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll have a play with the BU smoother and let you know how I get on.

 

[bugbear]

Never having the funds for some of the more exotic planes my solution over the years has been much simpler. Buy second hand Stanley or Record planes, older the better, junk the iron and replace with an iron from an old wooden equivalent.
Bristol tools? I believe have followed this source also for their irons.
I don't know how this conversion compares with a Clifton, for example, but I enjoy hand planing for a finish and I recently rejected a substantial offer for a break front display cabinet that I built. Mind you it did take me 6 months to produce in Oak and some of the grain was diabolical!

If you've more time than money, consider making a laminated (a la Krenov, Steve Knight, Philly) smoothing plane, using a reclaimed iron from an old woodie (around 3-5 quid at a car boot) with a steep pitch (try 55-60 degrees).

If you're not confident of your plane making skills, make a scrub in this manner first.

BugBear

 

[Digit]

I've made a number of planes in recent years Bug, but always in wood. I have to say that weight in a plane is not something I have found to be an advantage, just makes the work harder I find.
As regards ease of adjustment of the frog Paul this is something I get around in a smoother by having several Record or Stanley planes set for different throats.

 

[bugbear]

I've made a number of planes in recent years Bug, but always in wood. I have to say that weight in a plane is not something I have found to be an advantage, just makes the work harder I find.

It can be helpful in a plane for use on a shooting board; the inertia smooths the stroke, especially at entry and exit to the cut.

BugBear

 

[Digit]

It can be helpful in a plane for use on a shooting board; the inertia smooths the stroke, especially at entry and exit to the cut.

Very true, I made a nicely finished wooden plane for use on my various shooting boards and finally finished with a modified Record number 4.

 

[David C]

Paul,

Thank you very much. I hoped someone had noticed that article!

If one takes the trouble to master the various techniques for raising effective pitch, one can plane anything. Albeit with fine shavings.

The scraper plane then becomes redundant for everything except complex veneered surfaces.

This is my theory wot is mine, my theory ............python??

Sorry to keep banging on about it, but it is true as far as I know, and I can demonstrate that it works.
The current group of delightful students are happily producing perfect planed surfaces on ridiculously interlocked, quartered, Santos rosewood.

Best wishes,
David