Jameshow
Established Member
Well done!Oh that is a wild way of doing things haha.
Got a bit done today, framed up and have the joists ready cut for tomorrow.
Also wrapped it in moisture barrier but didn’t take a pic.
windows?
Well done!Oh that is a wild way of doing things haha.
Got a bit done today, framed up and have the joists ready cut for tomorrow.
Also wrapped it in moisture barrier but didn’t take a pic.
Just a door with glass in. Thought about putting a timber rack on the door wall, then bench and machines against the other wall so no room for windows lolWell done!
windows?
Nice work.Oh that is a wild way of doing things haha.
Got a bit done today, framed up and have the joists ready cut for tomorrow.
Also wrapped it in moisture barrier but didn’t take a pic.
How about a roof light?Just a door with glass in. Thought about putting a timber rack on the door wall, then bench and machines against the other wall so no room for windows lol
Thanks!Nice work.
You have the DPC in place
600 centres?
You've wrapped it but not sheathed it yet, are you putting sheathing on inside then? Or not sheathing it at all?
By the way, your door header is not optimised, not important as it's only a small opening, but just FYI.
Martin
I bought a second hand back door which is double glazed, I did think about a roof light although I’m pretty keen to try and keep it as noise proof as I can.How about a roof light?
If money tight, pick up a second hand shower screen and attach it too a simple frame?
That makes senseThanks!
600 centres yep, for when I line the interior.
I’m cladding straight over the wrap with 15mm shiplap, then insulating the walls and sheathing the inside with 18mm ply.
I messed up abit with the door, I pre bought a double glazed back door second hand, but on my plans I forgot to calculate it from the concrete and not the timber frame I cut out. So had to use an extra timber to make up the top.
I bought a second hand back door which is double glazed, I did think about a roof light although I’m pretty keen to try and keep it as noise proof as I can.
By the way, have you thought about how you will handle the corners when you do your shiplap yet?Thanks!
600 centres yep, for when I line the interior.
I’m cladding straight over the wrap with 15mm shiplap, then insulating the walls and sheathing the inside with 18mm ply.
I messed up abit with the door, I pre bought a double glazed back door second hand, but on my plans I forgot to calculate it from the concrete and not the timber frame I cut out. So had to use an extra timber to make up the top.
I bought a second hand back door which is double glazed, I did think about a roof light although I’m pretty keen to try and keep it as noise proof as I can.
I'd use battens to keep the cladding off the wrap so that damp dosent cause rot to the cladding. Why not 22mm cladding too.By the way, have you thought about how you will handle the corners when you do your shiplap yet?
This works well:
View attachment 167964
2x2 (45mm x 45mm) in corners butted up to 25mm x 50mm battens at edges.
Martin
I would also batten and up the cladding thickness also nail on the cladding don't pin will act as your sheathing if you already have the cladding then osb the internal side.I'd use battens to keep the cladding off the wrap so that damp dosent cause rot to the cladding. Why not 22mm cladding too.
Pine?
Check your not paying to much -
£1.50 -1-70m
Ah ok I see, if I can reduce it as much as possible then that will be ideal. I won’t go overboard with insulation now knowing this.That makes sense
Sound proofing is really tricky, and sometimes counter intuitive. What I tend to find is it's the air gaps more than anything that effect sound transmission, even the tiniest ones. I have a habit of going overboard when sealing up walls and roof, using spray foam everywhere and fitting the PIR super tight to start with, and even then it's still the air gaps that are dominant, and not so much materials. For example, if I am inside a garden room I've built and there is a loud noise outside, I can pretty much halve the sound transmission by closing the trickle vent on the door. It's a tiny air gap and it's baffled too!
Martin
Yea this is very similar to what I was planning to do regarding the corners, very useful picture thanks!By the way, have you thought about how you will handle the corners when you do your shiplap yet?
This works well:
View attachment 167964
2x2 (45mm x 45mm) in corners butted up to 25mm x 50mm battens at edges.
Martin
I’m not sure if I have the room for battens now, does it make that much of a difference that I need to find a way to do it with battens or would it be ok to do it without still?I'd use battens to keep the cladding off the wrap so that damp dosent cause rot to the cladding. Why not 22mm cladding too.
Pine?
Check your not paying to much -
£1.50 -1-70m
Already bought the cladding unfortunately, although I plan to use 18mm ply on the inside still. I will use annular ring nails for this.I would also batten and up the cladding thickness also nail on the cladding don't pin will act as your sheathing if you already have the cladding then osb the internal side.
I did two 500x1100 windows with fixed obscure glazing but now wish I made them openers with clear.
Dust and light were my only issues in use.
Why cain't you use battens? It would help keep the timber dry?Ah ok I see, if I can reduce it as much as possible then that will be ideal. I won’t go overboard with insulation now knowing this.
Yea this is very similar to what I was planning to do regarding the corners, very useful picture thanks!
I’m not sure if I have the room for battens now, does it make that much of a difference that I need to find a way to do it with battens or would it be ok to do it without still?
I paid £1.84 per meter, it’s 19mm nominal so finished size is 15mm.
Already bought the cladding unfortunately, although I plan to use 18mm ply on the inside still. I will use annular ring nails for this.
I’ll need to do a few calculations on filling the gap between the old shed and the new one. Should be ok though.Why cain't you use battens? It would help keep the timber dry?
Do you have any recommendations for good places to get shiplap cladding? Most places I have seen either just offer feather edge or charge a lot more than that. I am looking to buy a fair amount soon so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!I'd use battens to keep the cladding off the wrap so that damp dosent cause rot to the cladding. Why not 22mm cladding too.
Pine?
Check your not paying to much -
£1.50 -1-70m
Hi, I bought it from a local timber supplier called Nicks timber, I think they only supply locally though.Do you have any recommendations for good places to get shiplap cladding? Most places I have seen either just offer feather edge or charge a lot more than that. I am looking to buy a fair amount soon so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Do you have any recommendations for good places to get shiplap cladding? Most places I have seen either just offer feather edge or charge a lot more than that. I am looking to buy a fair amount soon so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi, I bought it from a local timber supplier called Nicks timber, I think they only supply locally though.
It would be wise ringing your local timber merchants up as they may do a decent deal if you order lots.
Thank you both. I thought I was ordering a large amount, but maybe 60m2 isn't that much in the grand scheme of things!https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26513317...tixoXeJTeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPYThis is where I get mine. They deliver too.
That is still a good amount, over £1000 worth which any business wouldn’t say no to.Thank you both. I thought I was ordering a large amount, but maybe 60m2 isn't that much in the grand scheme of things!
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