Tony Spear
Established Member
David C":3kbcmu8g said:
"Grandad, how much should I tighten the screw?)
"Until just before it breaks!" :lol:
Small Router Plane Project
- Thread starter rxh
- Start date
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"Grandad, how much should I tighten the screw?)
"Until just before it breaks!" :lol:
Love the 'until just before it breaks!' - priceless advice...
It was beaten into me that 'clocking'or 'soldiering' screws was bad engineering practice because of over/under tightening - filing false slots into screws does sound like a labour of love - and a good way of going bust!
It was beaten into me that 'clocking'or 'soldiering' screws was bad engineering practice because of over/under tightening - filing false slots into screws does sound like a labour of love - and a good way of going bust!
Sheffield Tony
Ghost of the disenchanted
Presumably you could reduce the variation in torque by using crosspoint screws, or even torx :lol:
Seriously, all this lining up screw slots sounds like OCD to me. Seeing lined up screws makes me fear someone has put appearance ahead of function. We are making tools, not ornaments here ?
Seriously, all this lining up screw slots sounds like OCD to me. Seeing lined up screws makes me fear someone has put appearance ahead of function. We are making tools, not ornaments here ?
i am not a fan of cross heads, aesthetically. Slotted looks traditional, and even in an contemporary setting, such as they are, they look appropriate. Torx and Allen head, I do like though for some reason. It looks "modern" to me. Strange, I know.
rafezetter
Troll Hunter
My first reaction pretty much sums it up; Holy Moly! - I never cease to be amazed at the tools that amateur hobbyists produce; really top quality stuff, that easily looks like something that would cost a lot of money to buy retail.
I don't know whether it's worth a try, but could you possibly remove the screws and swap them about? I could be wrong but I doubt all screws have the same orientation of thread ending and slot; it could be that you might find some that won't line up in their own holes, but will, or require less overtightening, in another...
I don't know whether it's worth a try, but could you possibly remove the screws and swap them about? I could be wrong but I doubt all screws have the same orientation of thread ending and slot; it could be that you might find some that won't line up in their own holes, but will, or require less overtightening, in another...
Thanks to all for your comments.
Here, by popular demand: screw slots lined up after a bit of fiddling with steel screws of the same size and a countersink cutter. I have mixed feelings about this but there you are.
Richard T – the brass is CZ121, which apparently contains lead to make it easy to machine. The knurling was quite easy – I used a two wheel knurling tool which avoids stressing the lathe. I haven’t tried riveting with it but I suspect it would crack easily if hammered.
Here, by popular demand: screw slots lined up after a bit of fiddling with steel screws of the same size and a countersink cutter. I have mixed feelings about this but there you are.
Richard T – the brass is CZ121, which apparently contains lead to make it easy to machine. The knurling was quite easy – I used a two wheel knurling tool which avoids stressing the lathe. I haven’t tried riveting with it but I suspect it would crack easily if hammered.
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RossJarvis
Established Member
rxh":yfn6bfy9 said:
If such a thing is possible it's even more outstanding than before, good job that man(/woman, person)
. I try and "dress" screws where I can and sometimes it works, sometimes not. I think in such as doors and frames of new pine, it's relatively easy as the softness of the wood helps, in hardwoods or metals, where there's little or no "give" snappage is likely to occur #-o . or the screws don't go fully home. Don't ask how I know that .Richard T
Established Member
Thanks rxh - yup that's what I am using: cz121. Good to know.
bugbear
Established Member
rxh":e8p5ba1a said:
Well, I'm with D.C. on this, and my feelings are in no way mixed.
David C":e8p5ba1a said:
Which just goes to prove you can't please everybody!
BugBear
I wonder if there was ever any science involved in deciding how many screw holes a hinge should have- do they allow for 'soldiering' so put in a few extra to compensate. I know when I swing a door it has one screw in the top frame and one in the bottom. I've never had a door pull away from the housing yet by only having 1 temporary screw.
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Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
bugbear
Established Member
Pete Maddex":1owmgrci said:
If you've ever tried to remove one, you'll know everything is nicely secured by paint.
BugBear
CHJ
Established Member
All my first floor doors are heavy (early 1960's firedoor type) and are hung on heavy duty Brass hinges with only two screws, one top one bottom in the frame.
When we moved in, in the mid 1980's and first came to decorate I was surprised to notice this and decided to add the full set when I could match the heavy duty slotted brass screws used.
Never did acquire the new screws and the doors are still solidly swinging and closing 50 yrs. after they were first hung.
I guess it's due to the depth and accuracy of the original frame rebates.
When we moved in, in the mid 1980's and first came to decorate I was surprised to notice this and decided to add the full set when I could match the heavy duty slotted brass screws used.
Never did acquire the new screws and the doors are still solidly swinging and closing 50 yrs. after they were first hung.
I guess it's due to the depth and accuracy of the original frame rebates.
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David C
In Memorium
Bugbear,
Although I am rather fond of making up the odd word, this is not one.
I heard the term "soldiering" many, many years ago and a long time before "clocking".
It occurs to me that the ritual of proper fitting of old style brass screws must be coming to an end.
Clearance hole, tapping hole, countersink, first a steel screw before inserting the greased or waxed brass screw. When I was young, the ironmonger would automatically add a couple of identical steel screws to a bag of a dozen brass screws.
Polishing the flat heads on exhibition work.
I have cosiderable trouble explaining that drill sizes which work in Cherry will not work in Ebony, and that one should not need to heave on a screwdriver.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
Although I am rather fond of making up the odd word, this is not one.
I heard the term "soldiering" many, many years ago and a long time before "clocking".
It occurs to me that the ritual of proper fitting of old style brass screws must be coming to an end.
Clearance hole, tapping hole, countersink, first a steel screw before inserting the greased or waxed brass screw. When I was young, the ironmonger would automatically add a couple of identical steel screws to a bag of a dozen brass screws.
Polishing the flat heads on exhibition work.
I have cosiderable trouble explaining that drill sizes which work in Cherry will not work in Ebony, and that one should not need to heave on a screwdriver.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
Beautiful work!
David, I think its agreat thing that old methods and technigues are still used. So much gets lost and this sort of knowledge is priceless...a carpenter today seems to have little understanding of even basic stuff like scribing internal mitres, taking the arisses off etc. Agood carpenter should be an engineer in wood, with all the arrendant technical knowledge. They just dont seem to teach this nowadays.........
David, I think its agreat thing that old methods and technigues are still used. So much gets lost and this sort of knowledge is priceless...a carpenter today seems to have little understanding of even basic stuff like scribing internal mitres, taking the arisses off etc. Agood carpenter should be an engineer in wood, with all the arrendant technical knowledge. They just dont seem to teach this nowadays.........
