Small (but tall) Table

[Good Surname or what ?]

SWMBO doesn't understand the need to have more than one project under way at a time. I've tried to explain but some fall on stony ground!

I've knocked up this initial design for a small hall table that fits a wee space we have. The inspiration is a table by Mark Ripley that I saw at a craft show.

His is very fine and delicate - but mine is a bit heavier I think. This will be in American black walnut because I've got lots of it. I'm wondering if I should make a pair too.

I'm struggling with the best construction for little shelf. The front rail needs to reflect the curve of the bottom of the drawer. Any thoughts?

I've invested in an expensive Wealdon router bit with top and bottom bearings so I can use a template to shape the legs. Great advice on this forum as always. I hope to test run this on some spare legs this w/e. I'll have to borrow a router, more powerful than my little T4, from a kind neighbour. Said neighbour is in the trade and always marvels at my desire to do things with hand tools over 4 weeks when he can do it with a machine in 4 minutes! I have a crappy old PowerCraft router table (stupid buy from Aldi) so hope I can crack this template routing trick with some help from neighbour.

WIPS to follow.

 

[woodbloke]

SWMBO doesn't understand the need to have more than one project under way at a time. I've tried to explain but some fall on stony ground!

I've knocked up this initial design for a small hall table that fits a wee space we have. The inspiration is a table by Mark Ripley that I saw at a craft show.

His is very fine and delicate - but mine is a bit heavier I think. This will be in American black walnut because I've got lots of it. I'm wondering if I should make a pair too.

I'm struggling with the best construction for little shelf. The front rail needs to reflect the curve of the bottom of the drawer. Any thoughts?

I've invested in an expensive Wealdon router bit with top and bottom bearings so I can use a template to shape the legs. Great advice on this forum as always. I hope to test run this on some spare legs this w/e. I'll have to borrow a router, more powerful than my little T4, from a kind neighbour. Said neighbour is in the trade and always marvels at my desire to do things with hand tools over 4 weeks when he can do it with a machine in 4 minutes! I have a crappy old PowerCraft router table (stupid buy from Aldi) so hope I can crack this template routing trick with some help from neighbour.

WIPS to follow.

I'd be wary of altering the proportions of your table, something like this ought to be made fairly delicately and would a tad 'clunky' if it was made heavier, especially if it's made in a much darker wood like ABW.
Looking at that little shelf...yes, it would be good to include a bit of curvature somewhere, probably in the front, but again don't overdo it...less is more :wink: I'd joint it into the legs with shallow halving joints or it could be doweled as it won't be taking much weight.
Interestingly, the shape of the space above the shelf appears to conform to the Golden Section, which is why it looks in the right place - Rob

 

[ByronBlack]

I think they would like great in walnut, I'll be looking forward to see these come out, they are a lovely design.

 

[Benchwayze]

Very nice designs overall.. Some walnut accents maybe?
I have a piece of Walnut bough wood I use for handles and knobs for instance, which wasn't all that expensive. So it might give you an idea.

(For English hardwood I have used Harry Adcocks of Corby Glen Lincs. Seventy odd miles from me but worth the drive. I believe they still trade.)

I take it you need a 1/2" router for this trimming bit?

I am not knocking the use of a router. But I can't see anything on this table that you couldn't do with hand-tools. Maybe a bandsaw would save time, but somehow I like the idea of finishing those curves with spokeshaves... In anticipation that forever-after, I could cop a crafty feel of those curves!

John :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

I am not knocking the use of a router. But I can't see anything on this table that you couldn't do with hand-tools. Maybe a bandsaw would save time, but somehow I like the idea of finishing those curves with spokeshaves... In anticipation that forever-after, I could cop a crafty feel of those curves!

John :wink:

I'm with you there John, I would use a spokeshave everyday over a router, so much more easier to control, a lot more fun, and that little bit closer to real wood 'working', not to mention satisfying.

 

[Benchwayze]

Very true Byron.

For a batch of tables I might use a router. For just one or two, by the time I had made the template/jig for the cutter, (Probably with a spokeshave!) I could have the curves finished and the job ready to clamp. (Maybe!) .

As I said, these days I might rough-shape on the bandsaw, but there was a time I would've use a frame-saw.

But if Ian (OOps! Sorry... Phil!) wants to use a router then no problem.
Making stuff in wood is good!
John

 

[PaulO]

The curve in the shelf of the orginal looks to be a curved chamfer rather than a curve in the plan view. Popular in the Barnsley workshop (according to F&C). Draw the same curve on the front and bottom face as a guide then cut the 45 degree chamfer with a spokeshave, with a deeper chamfer in the middle of the shelf.

One thing I can't stand is reverse tapered legs (as in the original). I always think they make a piece look bottom heavy. I guess they are favoured by people who like 70's fashion.

Does yours have any taper in the legs? I think I might keep it parallel down to the shelf then a slight taper from there (a little below the shelf) to the floor. Any chance you could post your sketchup file so we could have a look?

 

[Good Surname or what ?]

I did think about using spokeshave on a bandsawn leg. But I'd like to improve my confidence with the router so I can tackle other things that need it. I'm happy with spokeshaves as you can see by my chairs - I would need to invest in a curved L-N shave though 8).

One thing I can't stand is reverse tapered legs (as in the original). I always think they make a piece look bottom heavy. I guess they are favoured by people who like 70's fashion.

Does yours have any taper in the legs? I think I might keep it parallel down to the shelf then a slight taper from there (a little below the shelf) to the floor. Any chance you could post your sketchup file so we could have a look?

Mine does have the reverse taper. And there was nothing wrong with the '70s fashion - it's the '80s where things went wrong. Loons were great! :roll:

The legs are 35mm square at top and bottom. Looking at the front the legs are shaped to a curve that is 12 deep 150 mm from top.

<BR>

You can see the curve better on this image.

The front top rail will be dovetailed into the top of the legs and the kickers and runners for the drawer will be M&Ted back and front. The guides will be glued to the runners.

Have uploaded sketchup file here http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=44295d4ec0d1e1ae4eb7315d59c5142c

 

[woodbloke]

I did the same leg treatment on a cabinet stand I made a while ago:

The legs started off at 35mm square and are thinned slightly where the wide sculpted rail joins and then flare out again gradually as they drop towards floor level.
I think a gradual reverse taper like this looks fine...provided it is gradual, it's when the leg starts at 35mm at the top and finishes at 45 at the bottom that it looks (to my mind anyhow) a little odd and 'bottom heavy' - Rob

 

[houtslager]

FAO; woodbloke, any chance of more piccies of your stand please.

Looks like summint I am trying to work out ( in minds eye ) iygmm

ta much,

Karl

 

[woodbloke]

FAO; woodbloke, any chance of more piccies of your stand please.

Looks like summint I am trying to work out ( in minds eye ) iygmm

ta much,

Karl

These are a couple of WIP shots of the stand:

Hope of some use - Rob