sliding mitersaw confusion

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sed9888

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I have an evolution sliding saw, i have had it about a year, i know its not the best but it had and still has great reviews, however i have set it up as you would and everything is bang on, but when i cut anything with it its out?
can anyone shed any light on what might be causing it and is there a cure
regards
Peter
 
I could never get my cheap scheppach one to work, so sold it and I use my table saw with an incra mitre gauge.

I know mitre saws have their place and are invaluable to many people, but that experience put me off.

Maybe do all the checks once again? As I have found with me when I'm trying to get something to work, I overlook so many things.
Sorry for telling you to suck eggs but sometimes taking a good second look helps.
 
I've got a cheapo Evolution mitre saw (non sliding) that I only use for quick & dirty stuff, like chopping featheredge to length in the garden. I got it because it was cheap, lightweight and I can set it up on a workmate virtually anywhere - it's not very accurate but serves a purpose

When I first got it I found that even setting up the fence square to the blade with a try square and the blade at 90 degrees to the table, many cuts were not coming out square. I traced this to a bow in the fence - if I placed a metal straight edge along the whole length of the fence, the centre was inset by 2-3mm. It's a one-piece cast fence so there was no way to adjust the fence to remove the bow - I sent photographs to Evolution support and they shipped me a replacement fence.
 
I found with my old evolution saw that there was a fair bit of play/flex when the slide was fully extended.
 
In what way is it out and how is it affecting the cut on the timber you are using.
everything i cut is not square, eg today i was trying to saw a straight edge on some 3/4 baltic ply i had glued two pieces together, i checked everything i could to make sure it was as true as i could make it, but then when i made the cut it wasn't straight, i am limited for space i may go down the mitre gauge route?, i also spoke to Evolution and likewise they sent me a new fence but it has made no difference
 
I've noticed on the 'cheaper' brands, when you slide it out theres a bit of lateral play in the rods, seems the 'head' end can give a little side to side. Not much, but i guess when cutting its maybe going to pull to one side or the other.

Try making the cut gently, start and slowly pull it across the cut.
 
We have one at work, which was the cause of a massive argument between our engineering director and myself. (We are not a manufacturing or carpentry business)He said that I have no idea how to set it up, so I asked him to show me since he knows it all. I accused him of being penny wise but pound foolish. It was agreed that I will bring mine into work and the company will buy me 2 new blades. I think the 2 new blades cost more than the Evolution saw.
 
We have one at work, which was the cause of a massive argument between our engineering director and myself. (We are not a manufacturing or carpentry business)He said that I have no idea how to set it up, so I asked him to show me since he knows it all. I accused him of being penny wise but pound foolish. It was agreed that I will bring mine into work and the company will buy me 2 new blades. I think the 2 new blades cost more than the Evolution saw.
Funny!
I’ve not had a conversation like that in years, but I do remember a technician asking “are you telling me how to do my job?”, to which I could only be honest... “yes!”

As for the original question, the static behaviour of a saw might all be for nothing by the time there’s the load of the motor and blade spinning and the reaction force of the workpiece
 
I used to be quite happy with one of those really cheap and very nasty dutch made Chop Saws,,,struggleing to recall the brand now,,anyway it cost about £15 and after setting it up was perfectly okay,,,but only after I had got used to it,,it had to be pulled down square and evenly otherwise there was enough flex to throw everything out and its made me very aware of this even now with my big Makita slideing job. If you want to perservere with it try holding the saw square as well as just relying on the guide rails. Ive no great experience of these thngs but every mitresaw I think Ive ever seen seems to have a bit of flex if you get hold of the handle and pull it sideways.
 
I have a evolution mitre saw and it cuts as square as can be, like any tool just need to make sure it’s set up straight, assuming of course that you didn’t get a dud in the first place.
 
Has it always been "out"? Or has it got worse over time/recently? I ask as I have an Erbauer 235mm jobbie - not exactly high-end, but I like it, and it's always been good enough for for my needs.

Anywho, I laid laminate flooring in two double rooms, cutting the planks to length with said saw. Then I tried to cut new skirting (using real wood) - and it was all over the place. The laminate had killed the blade, and it wouldn't/couldn't cut straight and square any more.

A new blade fixed it, but thought it was worth a mention, in case yours is blunt?
 
Yes blunt adds to the problems but they all flex a bit on the sliding arms. I usually lock the slide if the board is narrow enough. Makes it a bit more accurate. Anything requiring real accuracy gets done on the tablesaw.
Regards
John
 
just a quick update i have ordered a new blade, the advice on this wonderful group is priceless thank you and merry christmas
 

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