skew tips

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mike s

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16 Jan 2011
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epsom, surrey
until now i have avoided the skew, but now i want to perfect the skill so i can take advantage of all of its benefits.
what is the best speed to have the lathe running at?
what is the best height to have the tool rest?
i bought a 1" sorby square stock skew off ebay the other day, is this the best size? (i did some research before buying but i would like to see more points of view)
is their anything to look out for when learning? (easy bad habbits to fall into, reasons for catches and how to avoid them etc.)
thanks in advance :)
links to instructions would also be greatly appreciated
 
I have two skews that I use regularly, one is a 1" and the other 3/8". I use both higher than normal so that I am in effect planing along the wood. I also have them ground at quite a steep angle so that the bevel is abut 1/4". Partly this method arose through my own experimentation and partly through the advice of the experienced pro at our club. When I am taking spindles down I do 90% of it with a 1 1/4" roughing gouge and that can achieve as good a finish as a skew if used with the rest well below centre and angled at about 45 degrees so that you are in effect using it as you would a skew. I then finish off or do any beads etc with one of the skews. Which one depends on the size of the timber.

Pete
 
Hi Mike,

Welcome to the world of Skews!

The actual size and shape is purely a personal preference thing. I would go for either a 3/4" rolled edge or a 3/8" square. Personally I would avoid the oval skews. The actual angle doesn't really matter. Some people prefer a curved edge, once again, personal choice.

The skew works in 3 basic modes:

Planing - I would recommend (Like Pete) you raise the tool rest a little so you are working on top of the wood, this way you have much better control and can see what you are doing. Using roughly the bottom quarter area of the edge - so you have the long point and the short point, you see half way, well half way from there to the short point is where you want to aim to cut for best control. Put a marker pen mark on if it helps! Takes a bit of practice but you'll get it!

Slicing/V cuts - Use the long point for this with the tool resting on its edge and essentially just lift the handle of the tool so the tip slices into the wood. Do this near the end of the spindle and take a thin cut. You will notice that it will take an angled cut, this is because it follows the angle of your bevel, so bring the bevel in line with the direction you want to cut and try again. The handle feels like it's at a weird angle but its right, honest! If you get it right you should end up with really nice clean end grain.

Shaping/Rolling beads - For this I would recommend the use of the long point, and when I say point I mean ONLY the point, mark out where you want your bead and make either a deep vee cut either side or a parting tool cut either side of your marking, then put a pencil line for the highest point, ie the middle. Using only the long point - none of the cutting edge, just the point, take a small slice off of the corner, then another and another until you take a final cut from the pencil line down to the bottom of your cut. Repeat for the other side. Most people's first is a bit "gothic" shaped. Just keep practicing. Most inportant things are to keep the tool rolling, it should start almost flat at the top and vertical by the end, so it rotates 90deg, so keep rollong and only use the tip!!!!!

Its much easier to show you but for now I hope this helps. Please ask if anything isn't clear.

Cheers

Richard
 
I tried an oval one at the club and found I had far less control with it but assumed it was just me. I like having a flat to work with

Pete
 
iv been subscribed to you for a few months now bob, but i have only just found the skew tips, thanks
the skew arrived today. i tested it out on some pine and straight away i noticed it needs to be razor sharp.
 
After reading these post's last night thought ive got to give it a go, Plucked up courage tonight but only on a pen im amazed just how good the skew is will be doing more practise from now on. :lol: :lol:
 
bobham":1dec732x said:
This is a rather long and boring practice session with the skew that I posted last year: http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p ... 58157FFF2D
Long but not in the least bit boring Bob!

Having watched your videos I went straight out and reground my skew to a steeper angle, more like my beading chisel, and had a good play with it.

So much better with less tendency to catch or dig in and I was soon doing v-cuts and beads with much more confidence. Too much confidence sometimes but with practise it will get easier.

Your explanations really helped to understand how to use it and I will now use it as more than just a scraper!

Thanks for posting.

Mick
 
My oval scew came with the shallow bevel Bob and I get on fairly well with it, but as yet I have never done a lot of beads as such, but after watching, so far, upto number 4 of you scew video I will be having another go at it!! I may even try grinding my 1" square scew to the same bevel?
As a matter of interest, I was given a tip by Ian Wilkie when I did a weekend course with him a l o n g while back and that was that if you have a square edge scew it's a good idea to very carefully grind the corners to take the edge off of the chisel so that it doesn't catch on the rest as you traverse along the rest. It certainly works for me!!
 
Hello Mike

what is the best speed to have the lathe running at?

From Keith Rowley. Spindles up to 24" long

Up to 2 1/2 " square - 2000 rpm

2 1/2 to 4" square - 1500

Over 4" square - 1000

For spindles longer than 24" he suggests 1500 / 1000 / 750

John is right about radiussing the corners, which also makes the tool feel 'nicer'. Also make sure the rest has no nicks in it.

If you google 'skew chisel videos' there are lots of examples to add to the confusion. Everyone has their own preferences so try a few suggestions, find out what suits you and don't give up. :D

Cheers

Dave
 
Jonzjob":nk1mxmm6 said:
Probably a bit of elbow grease and a course file if it's cast as mine is.

If your rest is made out of the same cheese that Record Power make their rests out of you do not need a lot of elbow grease :x
 
My Record is about 15 years old and I haven't had any trouble with it and the only reason I have had any 'dents' in the rest has been due to using it as a rest for the spanner on the spindle on the very odd occasion I have had a stubborn chuck that didn't want to come off.. :D

Great bit of kit as far as I am concerned :) Especially now I have put a 3ø variable speed motor on it..
 
Mike,

I made a Skew practice vid. ( handled spinning top ) a few days ago and thought you may find something in there to help. Any questions please ask.

Hope it helps a bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRZOh2Z1yRw

BTW. I normally run my toolrest across the grinder, then wet + dry, them rub a candle over it for a smoother tool slide.
 
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