Skew Chisel -v- scraper !!

[Lightweeder]

I have problems with the skew (as a lot of novices do), but love my scrapers to bits. I appreciate that so many people can't be wrong, but what's so marvellous about the skew, and would I do better with a smaller one (mine's a heavy one inch thing) or an oval ground one ? Would appreciate your advice (and patience)

 

[stevebuk]

As an also newbie giving his thoughts, i dont think it matters what size it is, the teqnique is still the same, its one of those things that one needs to master if you want to use it. :wink:

 

[DaveL]

would I do better with a smaller one (mine's a heavy one inch thing) or an oval ground one ?

I have a 3/4" oval and a monster 1 1/2" rolled edge, for most things I reach for the big beasty. I am only a beginner and it was on a days training with Richard Findley that I first used a rolled edge skew and I just found for many cuts it was easier for me to control.
One of the rules when using the skew to plane, only use the bottom half of the blade as that is the part that has the support of the tool rest, so having a wider tool give a bigger area of cutting edge to use.

 

[CHJ]

I am not quite so nervous using the skew now but it has taken a long time, you can get away with a little inattention with most gouges but I find the skew has the most vicious desire to bite back of any.

I go for the widest one in my collection (1-1/8" Oval) every time for spindle planning work as it gives me more room for positioning error and reaction time before I wander too near the tips.
My narrow skews never get used for planning, I'm just not good enough at controlling them.

Will have to try a curved version some time to see if it is a little more forgiving of my positioning errors.

 

[robo hippy]

I don't like the oval skews. Mostly, they seem to be a lot thinner and more flexable than the standard skews. Other than that, it is practice. I think skews are great for straighter forms, like table legs and rolling pins, but when it comes to cutting coves, a skewchigouge (I think it is called, round bar stock with half round on the cutting end and a spindle gouge cutting edge) works best. Spindls Masters from Sorby are too light weight. You can cut beads fairly well with a skew. Having some one show you and working with them for a day or so really helps. Lucky me, I just got done with a 3 day workshop with Stu and Allen Batty. I consider that to be a major gloat. I can do a fair job with a skew, but am not really competant with it. I tend to use it just enough to get the hang of it, the put it down for a while. and lose the finer hand skills needed to be good, not just okay.
robo hippy

 

[Bodrighy]

At the end of the day use the tools that work best for you, as long as it's safe. I use a skew for long flat spindles but only because I was shown how by a professional at the club. Early turners only had scrapers, gouges and all the fancy tools are relatively new to the craft. I find that I am using the skew more and more but for the first year ior so I didn't touch the thing simply because, as Chas puts it, it bites too darn hard.

pete

 

[Lightweeder]

OK thanks. Well, it sounds as though it's not the size of mine that's the problem. I'll persevere. Read a book on jewellery making during recent holiday and am about to start - the author uses the skew for almost everything :shock:

 

[CHJ]

OK thanks. Well, it sounds as though it's not the size of mine that's the problem. I'll persevere. Read a book on jewellery making during recent holiday and am about to start - the author uses the skew for almost everything :shock:

LW, personally I'd tend to concentrate on the jewlery not the tool used, we are all different in our approach and it's the finished item that counts in the end.

One day when the mood suits you may pick up a different tool and wonder why you never did it that way before but until that moment occurs I personally would rather turn out the finished item than spend hours perfecting a tool use that does not seem to come naturally to me.

 

[duncanh]

but what's so marvellous about the skew

When used correctly a skew should give you the best tool finish for most parts of spindle turning. The only exceptions tend to be coves (for me, at least) and anywhere that isn't wide enough to get decent bevel contact.
It lets you get away with starting your sanding at 180 or 240 (or even higher) depending on how good you are.

If you can't manage the skew I'd say don't use a scraper - you should get a better finish using a gouge.

I found that the best way to improve your skew control is to practice on suitable timbers - something that's straight grained without much figure.
You could keep a practice piece next to the lathe and maybe start and finish each session with 5 of 10 minutes at it (although if your times limited that can be tricky).

As others have said - it's easier to start out with a larger skew as it gives you more margin for error.
I've only ever used oval skews so can't comment about differences between them and square edged ones.

Make sure that your toolrest is if free of nicks and bumps - the last thing you want when doing a nice smooth planing cut is your tool jumping when it hits an imperfection. If there are any serious problems you can remove with a file and/or wet and dry.

One thing that can help whilst learning is to use a Steb centre - it allows you to wind off pressure at the tailstock so that the timber is being driven just by the teeth. If you get a catch then the timber just stops turning rather than the tool jumping into the timber and making a mess.

Also, make sure that the tool is well ground - having lots of facets from dodgy sharpening can make things difficult.

Eventually you (hopefully) will be able to do all your spindle turning with a skew, including the roughing out from square.

Duncan

 

[jaymar]

I struggled with the skew until an old chap at a turning club showed me how to use it. You will find it easier if you raise the tool rest above the centre line, rest the flat of the skew on the work without cutting and gently bring the cutting edge into contact. As has been said, the bottom part of the cutting edge is what you use for the best results. You will be surprised how quickly you will gain confidence if you practice.

 

[Blister]

I have problems with the skew (as a lot of novices do), but love my scrapers to bits. I appreciate that so many people can't be wrong, but what's so marvellous about the skew, and would I do better with a smaller one (mine's a heavy one inch thing) or an oval ground one ? Would appreciate your advice (and patience)

You need to get a DVD called the taming of the skew , then the skew will be your friend :wink:

 

[Lightweeder]

As always, I've had some excellent advice from you guys. All appreciated.

I'll look out for Blister's DVD.

Duncan - you gave me a lot of suggestions, all of which will help, I'm sure. It would be no hardship to start most things off with a skew, at the point where I can afford to make a bit of an error, and try to build up my confidence. The large skew always seems such a heavy thing to be using for the delicate things.

Jaymar - thanks - I'll try the lower part of the skew. I thought it had to be the middle.

 

[NickWelford]

Read a book on jewellery making during recent holiday

Hi LW - can you post the name of the book - it interests me.

Thanks

 

[CHJ]

.....
I thought it had to be the middle....

I always aim for the middle when planning on the basis the further away from the points the better/safer.

The thing to remember is that it's not only the area of the blade but the point of support for the tool on the rest.

You need to position the rest and present the tool such that the point of support is below the point of contact with the wood, anything other than a straight line between the two at right angles to the cutting force will result in the tool trying to twist.
With a square section tool it is very easy to have the support on a corner allowing the tool to twist if it tries to dig in which compounds the fault.

The Oval Skew I believe was developed to try and overcome this trait and I find that it appears to work for me, looking at the vertical contact support line as I move cutting position from bottom point to top point the tool rolls on the rest more consistently as opposed to pivoting on the bottom corner if the geometry is not right.


Hope the ramblings make sense LW, no doubt like all things turning they will be at odds with the experience of others.

 

[Paul.J]

I have just used my Skew for the first time in yonks,and for the first time i enjoyed using it :shock:
I made an extension handle for my locking handle on the tailstock so thought about this post and used the Skew to make the handle,and what a lovely finish it left.Hardley any sanding needed just with the 300 and 400 grit :shock:
Even managing to round over the top of the handle with it.Really chuffed with meself
It did take a lot of concentration from me so there was no dig ins but i suppose with more frequent use this will go gradually.

 

[Lightweeder]

Read a book on jewellery making during recent holiday

Hi LW - can you post the name of the book - it interests me.

Thanks

Nick - the book's by Hilary Bowen and its title is simply 'Woodturning Jewellery' in the Guild of Master Craftsmen series.

I've developed a fondness for my bowl gouge this week, so will persevere with the skew. I don't like to be a wimp :wink:

 

[Bodrighy]

Check out Amazon. I got a 2nd hand copy in good condition for £3 + postage.

Pete

 

[NickWelford]

Thanks Guys - Will go look