Skew chisel size

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Grahamshed

Established Member
Joined
14 Apr 2012
Messages
3,066
Reaction score
3
Location
Oxfordish
Having started quite a 'discussion' on the swept back gouge lets move on to the skew.
All the vids and literature say to only use the bottom half of the edge to stop catches etc ( this is for 'planing', I know it has other uses ) That being the case there must be a size below which it becomes difficult to use ? I have a 1/2 inch but feel maybe 3/4 would have been better - I have to say I haven't got around to using it yet but maybe later today I will get a chance.
 
ooh first time on the skew.....(steps back closes eyes and puts fingers in ears!) Yes I found it easier with a bigger one. But be prepared for some scary catches...
 
I have a 25mm skew and a 15mm skew, and use both frequently. I had some really scary moments when I first tried using it, and wrecked some bits of perfectly decent timber in the process.
This Youtube video helped me a huge amount. This is where to make use of copious quantities of B&Q pine. ;)
 
When I got back into turning I avoided the skew for a couple of years then got shown how to use it and it has become the most used tool in my armoury. The smallest I have is 1/4" which gets used for all sorts of things, as a scraper, cutting tenons, small detail work... I find the rounded ones harder to control than the flat ones personally, more inclined to skitter and give that unwanted barley twist up the spindle. Referring to the other thread re: pine, a good finish in spindle work in pine can be achieved with a decent skew as long as you go in the right direction of the grain.

Pete
 
As a general rule for planing work - big skew = large diameter, small skew = small diameter.
If you follow this rule you will keep the 'dig in' point further away from the cutting portion.

If you are using the skew with long point down then use a size that suits and lets you see what you are doing.

Enjoy your learning curve.

During my learning period I perfected what I call the skew jump. On paper this jump is impossible. It is the ability to stand holding a skew with the legs straight, get a catch, jump back with the legs still straight whilst issuing an expletive. Olympic record is 1m.

Bill
 
Tazmaniandevil":1rsvz9v5 said:
This Youtube video helped me a huge amount. This is where to make use of copious quantities of B&Q pine. ;)
I have seen that one Taz but always good to watch it again. I can feel some bits of 2X2 getting their prospects shortened this afternoon. :)
 
YewTube":n6r0zgrn said:
As a general rule for planing work - big skew = large diameter, small skew = small diameter.
If you follow this rule you will keep the 'dig in' point further away from the cutting portion.

If you are using the skew with long point down then use a size that suits and lets you see what you are doing.

Enjoy your learning curve.

During my learning period I perfected what I call the skew jump. On paper this jump is impossible. It is the ability to stand holding a skew with the legs straight, get a catch, jump back with the legs still straight whilst issuing an expletive. Olympic record is 1m.

Bill

That first half makes a lot of sense.
Second half....... does any expletive work or do olympic rules specify something specific ?
 
Also Graham, make sure you keep you rest really close to the work because you ARE going to get a lot of catches to begin with, I'm afraid its inevitable. With the rest close, there's much less chance of trapped and painful fingers. Also when you hold the skew, use the grip where your fingers are above at first, again to avoid the catch trap.

I also agree with Pete on the straight versus radiused skew. Dunno why but I find the straight ones much easier to control. In fact I've pretty much abandoned my radiused skew now, just use the flat one.

Actually, what is the purpose of a radiused one anyway?
 
Isn't the radius supposed to be easier to roll on the tool rest?
 
I think the easiest thing to say is use the right size tool for the job. You would not use a 1 1/4" skew on this months challenge for example and you would not use a 1/4" skew to finish a cylinder 4" diameter by 2ft long.
You need to look at the job in hand.
I have managed with a 1/2", 3/4" and my 1 1/4" skew. The 1 1/4" really only comes out if I need to rough a square to a cylinder(over 2"). I would suggest that start by using the 3/4" skew and get the feel of it, Remember this video
 
KimG":1ben86np said:
Isn't the radius supposed to be easier to roll on the tool rest?


Yes but I find it too easy plus the skew is far lighter than an equivalent sized flat one. What you are used to and prefer I suppose but I only use mine for light work, usually shaping and beading.

Pete
 
Grahamshed":330vxtrx said:
Dalboy":330vxtrx said:
Remember this video
Firmly fixed in my mind.

I feel like I am going on a great expedition. :)

If I am not back by tea time send out the St Bernard

I will send one if you have not posted for a couple of hours but the barrel will have coffee only because you are operating machinery :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
The round/rolled edged skews have the benefit that there are no sharp corners to catch dents in the softer toolrest during planing or to mark the toolrest in the event of a catch. ....but it's not a bad idea to soften the corners of square edged skews with the grinder or a diamond file anyway and then the difference is a lot less.

Skew size is tricky but I think one thing not often mentioned is skew stiffness.

Ray Jones (production spindle turner) advocates a 3/8" square section skew for everything and Gary Rance (another production spindle turner) would advocate a 1/2" round skew for pretty much everything. Both of these are very stiff which makes control easier IMHO.

I bought a 1/2" oval skew early on and I hate it because it's far too flexible. I now use an 8mm round skew for small stuff and then I have a rectangular section 1/2" and rolled edge 3/4". I did have a 1" rectangular section skew but that was too big and it's now a negative rake bowl scraper :roll:

There are loads of fancy and expensive skew chisels on the market and they pretty much all claim to make it easier. But, and I don't want to be a smart ar$e, buying a new skew will not make you a better skew chisel turner; the only thing that will do that is practice.

HTH
Jon
 
Hi

In my opinion a 1/2" skew is a specialised tool whereas a 3/4" or 1" is a general purpose one. You may find it easier to control if you grind a radius to the edge rather than straight across. I get on fine with oval skews, (they're the only type I've got), though they can be more difficult to sharpen depending on the system you use.

Regards Mick
 
Spindle":3qi70cmn said:
Hi

You may find it easier to control if you grind a radius to the edge rather than straight across.
Regards Mick
Hi Mick
All my chisels are straight out of the box, not sharpened yet. I meant to do it this afternoon but had a nap attack instead :)
I have a (just unpacked) pro edge but not really sure what you mean by above.
My skew is a flat 1/2 inch
 
Hi Graham

Skew profiles:

Skews.png


I have a 3/4" which I have ground with a radius and I prefer it to the straight grind.

Regards Mick
 

Attachments

  • Skews.png
    Skews.png
    8.5 KB
Graham, you should have come and seen me at Nuneaton, I was doing quite a lot of skew work.

The thing about choice of skew is that it is entirely personal choice of what you like the feel of most and which you get on with best, because no matter the shape or size, you use them the same.

The rules as far as using the skew goes are:

For planing: use below the centre of the edge - as in Spindles post above

For rolling beads: use the very tip - short or long but long gives much better visibility

Keep it sharp!

HTH

Richard
 
Richard Findley":20o0dkxu said:
Graham, you should have come and seen me at Nuneaton, I was doing quite a lot of skew work.
Richard
I did, and watched you avidly, albeit from to far back to see in detail.
Your pair of finials were lovely.

Who won ?
 
Back
Top