sip 01332 (assembly part two ,so far)

[Digit]

No sub table extraction Martin as this would compromise router lift, instead I have fitted a polycarb shield to the top of the router so that any dust that falls through the table falls onto the shield and from there to the floor.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2u5deg0.jpg

This is not the best pic but it may help, if not I'll take another for you, but basically the fence is two alloy box sections that attach to the saw's fence with a suction pipe down the centre of one to extract the dust.
My TS is the workhorse of my shop, is does just about everything bar make the coffee!
I found with the 'Aldi' type tables that you were working at an uncomfortable height and that the table had a tendency to move whilst machining. With this conversion I have overcome both problems and taken up the minimum of shop space.

Roy.

 

[head clansman]

mike

ah if i'm understanding you right you've cut a hole in the box section the dust is then suck down the box section and up through the black outlet that can just be seen in pic yea ? hc

 

[Digit]

Mike? :lol:
No Martin, it's two separate box sections that attach to the saw's fence and can be slid back and forth on the T slots in the saw's fence, thus opening or closing close to the router cutter.
One section has a pipe down the centre that connects to the shop vac. Does that help?

Roy.

 

[head clansman]

roy

Mike? sorry at the mo shot full of holes , been a long hard day dealing with a particular supplier , brains addled,

yea ok, now i understand neat idea 8) , thankyou .hc :lol: :lol:

 

[head clansman]

hi guys second half of the assemble and setting up ,


first pic show the blade has been set at zero or if you like 90 degrees to the beds .

this pic shows the setup of the measuring marker, first slide the fence up against the saw blade and gently lock in position , then adjust screw and slide the perspex marker to suite end of rule .

these two next pics show from the fence locked into a position that the fence is running parallel to the miter slots either side of blade set at 200mm

back of blade

front of blade

machine nearly assembled

thats as far as i got to days, pic showing riving knife, and electricity cable still to be fitted tomorrow, hopefully new cast bed arrives tomorrow to replace the scratched one . then all that left will be a final check over and minor adjustment then up and running. :lol:

ps i used the same principal to check to see if the blade was parallel to the mitre slots , measure from either side of blade at front and back of blade to edge of each slot , spot on .hc :lol:

 

[Digit]

Martin! Dump the blade insert! You end up with red paint on everything!
The worst problem I faced was a two thou taper on the left hand 'T' slot.

Roy.

 

[Mike.C]

Looking good Martin, looking good

Cheers

Mike

 

[head clansman]

hi guys

digit checked both slots, both perfect , in fact i was surprised no play on the slots at all nice tight fit to both on there entire lengths good point about the red paint everywhere, what did you use in it place ?

mike thank you, hopefully if i get time tomorrow it will be up and running, busy day tomorrow , if the first new bed arrives early enough I'll get that fitted first , then do all the final tweeting to get it running and set up to perfection , second bed on back order about 1 1/2 months i'm told :twisted: hc stay tuned

 

[Digit]

I used Paxolin Martin. I made two, one a zero clearance and one a copy of the original.

Roy.

 

[Mike.C]

hi guys

digit checked both slots, both perfect , in fact i was surprised no play on the slots at all nice tight fit to both on there entire lengths good point about the red paint everywhere, what did you use in it place ?

mike thank you, hopefully if i get time tomorrow it will be up and running, busy day tomorrow , if the first new bed arrives early enough I'll get that fitted first , then do all the final tweeting to get it running and set up to perfection , second bed on back order about 1 1/2 months i'm told :twisted: hc stay tuned

Martin, If you go ahead with your plans then don't forget to change the measuring tape along the rail. SIP do supply others because when I fitted my sliding table I had to remove the old tape, move the rail so instead of hanging over it lined up with the edge of the table, and then applied the new tape measure that came with the kit.

Cheers

Mike

 

[head clansman]

mike

cheers mate , did you order straight from sip uk ?. hc

 

[Mike.C]

mike

cheers mate , did you order straight from sip uk ?. hc

Well my came with the sliding table kit, but yes I am sure you can order them from SIP.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Harbo]

Digit - where did you get your Paxolin from please?

(It's been recommended for making crossing out templates for clock wheels)
I used plywood on my saw

Rod

 

[Digit]

I bought a load from a local supplier, he's got none left now though.
How much are you after?

Roy.

 

[Harbo]

Digit - 7 different sized wheels so I need 7 pieces about 80mm square.

I have never seen the stuff, is it similar to acrylic which I have?
The idea is that you cut out the inner diam. of the clock wheel rim (on a lathe) - to act as a filing guide. Well that's what the article in ME says?

Rod

 

[Digit]

I can let you have that Rod, but I would suggest that you check up the properties first. It's technical name is Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper. What I have is a centimeter in thickness.

Roy.

 

[head clansman]

hi

guys, sorry no update to day , guess what didn't turn up today as promised dispatched last friday afternoon :twisted: ,waited in all day as well , now why ain't i surprised. hc :x

 

[Harbo]

Digit - thanks for the offer but 10mm will be too thick.

I eventually found a supplier Presspahn who sell it in A3 sheets (5mm thick £5.60).

Rod