Sink in hardwood worktops

[LyNx]

Next door have just taken delivery on walnut worktops for their kitchen. They are getting a cheap "fitting rate" due to being messed about with the tops. Speaking to the fitter, they mentioned they wanted a undermounted SS sink. He then backed away slightly and came out with a few lines. "if the slats ran across the worktop and not the length then it could be undermounted" - "it will scratch the sink as i run the router cutter around to follow the shape" - "the end grain to the cut-out will split like an old cricket bat".

I've directed them to this forum so they can see first hand the response. If it was you, would you fit an undermounted sink into a walnut worktop (being finished in tung oil). Also the fitter supplied them with with a flooring wax type finish, is this correct to use on the worktops.

 

[houtslager]

Nope, unless the client was willing to sign an imdemity form, for warped / split work tops.

 

[jasonB]

Never seen a wooden top with the staves running front to back

It's really no different to fitting a belfast sink except the cutout does not extend to the front of the worktop.

A couple of layers of masking take on the sink will stop the bearing scratching or use a corian cutter with the plastic coated bearings. The other alternative is making a template.

As with any wooden top there is a risk of watergetting into the joints especially around sink cutouts but that would be the same for a cheap Ikea one to a bespoke wide board worktop.

Don't put any wax on it, it will attract dirt and prevent further coats of oil being applied as well.


Jason

 

[Anonymous]

I've fitted a load of Belfast sinks with wooden worktops over the last few years, and I don't see what the difference is with an undermounted sink. The hole would be cut & routed before any finish is applied, so I wouldn't worry too much about scratching the wood. You're going to be doing a fair bit of work with a sander anyway, particularly if thare are joints and/or drainer grooves to be done.

I would recomend Danish Oil. I use Morrells (their factory is just down the road from me) and have always found it to be excellent. 5 or 6 coats will ensure that you have a watertight seal to the exposed wood around the sink as well as the tops.

Fix the sink to the underside of the worktop after using loads of silicone sealent before dropping it into place on the cabinets.

This kitchen fitter sounds like a bit of a waste of space to me!