Short plane irons

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Melinda_dd

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I've touched on this before I know but...

I want to make a wooden plane (reminded by a forum member recently)
I was given some places to try for irons but I can only seem to see the long ones.
All the ones I've seen made seem to have short thick ones. Any ideas where I can get those. ....
A small plane would look silly with a big long iron poking out the top.
 
Plenty of old woodies available on ebay, car boots etc, often with good blades, often only £2 or so.
NB they all had long blades to start with - why not just follow the tradition?
 
Melinda_dd":3nt2rf07 said:
I've touched on this before I know but...

I want to make a wooden plane (reminded by a forum member recently)
I was given some places to try for irons but I can only seem to see the long ones.
All the ones I've seen made seem to have short thick ones. Any ideas where I can get those. ....
A small plane would look silly with a big long iron poking out the top.

It depends wether you're doing a Japanese style or a West European style; The body depths of these are very different, and the blade needs to be suitable to the body.

Western blades are available at car boots for very little money, although I would take a screwdriver with you to check the blade - all sorts of unpleasantness can hide under a cap iron!

BugBear
 
Ive some old wooden plane irons you can have, they need some work but are excellent sheffield steel.
 
phil.p":3fhretea said:
Pete - I know my eyes are deteriorating when I read - "use a B&Q hairdrier for the heating"!!

I think he meant you to use the hairdryer for forced draught to raise the temperature of the burning charcoal in the BBQ, not for directly heating the plane iron.

Another option is to make an iron from Ground Flat Stock (as Gauge Plate is also known), and subcontract the heat treatment. There's a small firm in Folkestone (Folkestone Engineering Supplies) who offer a heat treatment service for small items such as model engineers are likely to make, and also supply the Ground Flat Stock. I'm sure they'd quote for heat-treating a plane iron.

Edit to add - I'm fairly sure Ray Iles (The Old Tool Store) would be prepared to make a one-off for something like this, and probably at reasonable cost if his other offerings are anything to go by.

Further edit - those options would be just the job for a thick (say 4-6mm) iron. For a first shot at plane-making, a standard block plane iron, as suggested above, would be the pragmatic choice, and if bedded and wedged reasonably well, should give perfectly good performance.
 
Hi phil.p

'tis the only thing my hair dryer gets used for these days, sniff sniff.

Pete
 
Hi Melinda

This is a link to a Krenov style plane I built. I got the blade form Philly. It takes an incredible edge!

Good value too and a really nice chap!
 
Thanks for all the advice.

I think making my own iron is a bit beyond me.
I may take wem up on his offer.
And I just don't like the look of the long irons in small planes call me vain!

As to what type of plane I want to make. .... I have no clue.
I was going to go for a 45 degree jobbie. I've only seen pictures and you tube clips so not sure on dimensions. .. can't get hold of any of the suggested books for less than a fortune.

Bit confused as to the bed and opening the mouth? Not sure what this means.
Call me blond!

Any hints on prices from philly for irons?
 
Thank you that is a use.

Few questions if anyone knows...

how do I know what angle to cut the body part where the iron goes..... same angle as the iron grind?
And do i have to use a foreign hard wood or would a english beech/oak/ash/walnut blank be useable?

......thats all I can think of for now!!
 
Ron Hock made a blade for the galoots a while ago and lots of us made planes based around the same blade. It was incredibly cheap, maybe a nice email to Ron (who is a really nice bloke) would pay dividends
 
Melinda_dd":11fp0ogc said:
Thank you that is a use.

Few questions if anyone knows...

how do I know what angle to cut the body part where the iron goes
45º is most popular for general purpose
same angle as the iron grind?
no definitely not it's got to be steeper or the thing won't cut
And do i have to use a foreign hard wood or would a english beech/oak/ash/walnut blank be useable?

......thats all I can think of for now!!
Beech best. Oak no good (acidic), ash OK, walnut OK but a bit of a waste. Foreign hardwood if you want.
 
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