Shooting board has me stumped.

[1275gt]

I don't know what I'm missing here so I've come for help as I'm now stumped.

I've got a home made shooting board and it's been fine since I've made it a year ago, however now it's creating 90 ever so slightly out maybe 0.5-1mm out over the workpiece which is about 5"wide.

No big deal I thought it was the fence so replaced it. (Planed it off and glued a new one down).

Still the same...
So I placed a steel rule along the fence drew a line, then a another with my square (square is square), parallel lines so it's not my new fence.

I clamped a new fence on pressed against my square, still the same problem.

I'm shooting oak 15mm thick I've used 3 different planes all razor sharp and taking the slightest cut. Also trying to be mindful of my technique by keeping the plane in contact with the workpiece and following through.

I don't know what else to check.
I've attached pictures incase it's something obvious I'm missing.

 

[Adam W.]

You should keep your plane firmly on the shooting board, as the plane cuts a slight rebate on its first pass on the board.

Pressing the plane against the wood being shot will tip the plane over a little and the cut will be out of square.

Scrap that, I see you're out of square the other way and in that case.....I don't know.

Sorry.

 

[1275gt]

You should keep your plane firmly on the shooting board, as the plane cuts a slight rebate on its first pass on the board.

Pressing the plane against the wood being shot will tip the plane over a little and the cut will be out of square.

Thank you for the reply Adam.
The rebate is already formed and I'm mindful of tipping the plane over. Only taking extremely light passes to avoid exerting too much force and tipping the plane.

 

[Adam W.]

.

 

[Adam W.]

.

 

[Peri]

Does it remove more wood on the side/edge that's first to contact the blade? If so, the plane is probably pushing the wood back as it travels along the wood. More pressure (or even a stop block maybe) to stop the wood moving.

If you shoot a board thats 1" wide, does it still cut out of square?

 

[1275gt]

Does it remove more wood on the side/edge that's first to contact the blade? If so, the plane is probably pushing the wood back as it travels along the wood. More pressure (or even a stop block maybe) to stop the wood moving.

If you shoot a board thats 1" wide, does it still cut out of square?

Yes I forgot to mention it, tried it on some 1" pine still out of square.

 

[thetyreman]

might be an obvious question but is the plane sole square to the sides?

 

[1275gt]

Also when shooting the sound of the plane the sound is along the entire edge as the plane is moving. So it's not missing the last once or so up against the fence.

 

[1275gt]

might be an obvious question but is the plane sole square to the sides?

The 5¹/² I used is ever so slightly out of square. So I switched to my 4 which is square and still the same issue.

 

[Ttrees]

The easiest way of checking the ledge that I've found, is using a 6" engineers square and placing that against the plane sole (with iron retracted as to check more area)
Chances are a carpenters square is out, nevermind using the outside of the tool,
I bought this 150mm Soba engineers one for a tenner from axi

A vernier calipers on the stock to keep an eye on things, should it not be parallel or flat
and not rocking against the fence, should you be shooting the other end for some reason.
This is a tool which is a must if one wants precision, and a short wide piece will likely need to be checked for a flat edge before shooting.
I'd be willing to guess that piece might pivot in the center.

If the shooting board is accurate,
some sort of reference for the work is what I'd be looking into firstly, concerning that piece, and secondly the calipers
(a basic one like this, single locking, not for reading and only finding parallel,
makes for a whole lot more accurate than a pencil guage)
if you intend to use the same face down on the piece and shoot the other end.

 

[Ttrees]

What's the best reference you've got to check your fence and work?
From the look of that square......... I'd guess the plane would be.

No way would I take that specific square blade, nor any ruler like beside my calipers as an edge to be a reliable.
I might however check a blued carpenters square blade for using as a straight edge,
but wouldn't be keen on depending on it to stay square like an engineers tool.

David Charlesworth has some tips here what I'm talking about, should you want to make your own straight edges, stopped shavings and all that, calipers is a lovely tool to have should you want to.

 

[Orraloon]

First I take it you are laying the square on the reference edge that was against the fence. Another thing may be the wood is slipping back during the cut. Has your square actually been checked as square? Is the reference edge of the wood strait. Is the board fence strait. Is the edge of the shooting board that the plane runs along still strait. Its pine so may have moved over the life of the board. If you can think of anything else that may throw it off then add that to the list. Then check out each item one at a time to find whats wrong. You have tried a couple of planes so thats checked off already.
Something is not right so a methodical check is required to find what that is.

Regards
John

 

[Jester129]

Is it just me? The fence you are holding the wood against isn't at 900 to the wooden base - or it looks like it in the 2nd photo. Simple as that.

 

[Noho12C]

Are you sure the board that support your piece is straight ? it could be that the portion after the fence isnt straight or square to the fence, thus your plane goes after of square once your pass the fence.

 

[niall Y]

I don't know what I'm missing here so I've come for help as I'm now stumped.

I've got a home made shooting board and it's been fine since I've made it a year ago, however now it's creating 90 ever so slightly out maybe 0.5-1mm out over the workpiece which is about 5"wide.

No big deal I thought it was the fence so replaced it. (Planed it off and glued a new one down).

Still the same...
So I placed a steel rule along the fence drew a line, then a another with my square (square is square), parallel lines so it's not my new fence.

I clamped a new fence on pressed against my square, still the same problem.

I'm shooting oak 15mm thick I've used 3 different planes all razor sharp and taking the slightest cut. Also trying to be mindful of my technique by keeping the plane in contact with the workpiece and following through.

I don't know what else to check.
I've attached pictures incase it's something obvious I'm missing.

Hi,
Could it be, that the piece of timber is sliding, as you make the cut ? In that the maximum would be taken off at he beginning of the cut and that the minimum is removed at the end thus producing a slope. You could try clamping the stock in position to see if this is the case.
Cheers Niall

 

[Bob Chapman]

I’m a woodturner and do very little ‘flat stuff’, so I can’t guarantee that I know what I’m talking about, but could it be that the two edges of the board being planed are not parallel to each other? The cut would be at right angles to one edge but not the other.

 

[1275gt]

When installing the fence I referenced the stock Of the square on the highlighted edge.

I may actually upload a video of me using the shooting board tonight so everyone can see maybe what is happening.

 

[1275gt]

I’m a woodturner and do very little ‘flat stuff’, so I can’t guarantee that I know what I’m talking about, but could it be that the two edges of the board being planed are not parallel to each other? The cut would be at right angles to one edge but not the other.

I flip the work piece and reference the same edge (which is square). Once both ends have been made square I would plane the 2nd edge parallel.

 

[Bob Chapman]

OK. Just a thought. It’s the sort of mistake I’d make.