Sharpening the skew

[Neil Dyball]

Hi. looking for some advice from the more experienced turners here.

I use a Record 6" grinder with a white wheel and generally have no problems with sharpening, except..... the skew. I use the skew regularly and feel sure the when I got it (second hand) the bevel was flat. Inevitably using a circular wheel the bevel has ended up concave. Should the bevel be flat, to rub properly when 'planing', rather than concave (or indeed convex!)? If so, how do I achieve this on a circular grindstone, or should I use some other method?

All suggestions (on topic!) gratefully accepted.

Cheers,

Neil.

 

[CHJ]

Sharpen on the stone to convex.

If this is too acute, (small diameter stone), then polish flat on a cheep diamond stone/card or similar.

Retouching on diamond stone/card is all that should be needed for several sharpenings.

 

[NickWelford]

I sharpen them on the wheel leaving a concave surface on the skew. Doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. Even the gouge bevels are slightly concave.

 

[jayw]

this podcast seems very informative #37
check it out
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/0 ... arp-tools/
good luck
jay :wink:

 

[hpl]

I sharpen mine on a 6" bench grinder which gives a hollow grind. This gives me no problems and the bevel still rubs, in fact if the bevel wasn't rubbing then the skew would be very difficult to control. Also the piece of timber that you are turning is round this round will then fit into the hollow of the grind. As I am used to the hollow grind, I don't like the skew when the faces become flat through sharpening with the stone.
Just carry on with the 6" grinder, the concave grind is just fine.

Johnny B

 

[Neil Dyball]

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Took the offending tool along to show another turner and he reckons i've incrementally increased the 'length' of the bevel each time i've sharpened it. Now shortened it back to roughly what it would originally have been, and hey presto!

Thanks again,

Neil.