Sharpening stone (s) advice needed

[Rob_H]

For a complete novice to sharpening, can someone recommend a good stone - or whatever I need for sharpening plane irons and chisels. I don't mind paying a bit more for a good one, just don't want bog standard basic if it's not up to the job. I've always avoided planes as I didn't know how to sharpen, but I've bought a couple of old Records, I'm getting a Veritas soon, and want the right sharpening kit to go with them. Thanks

 

[woodbloke]

Ooo-er...can of worms surfaces yet again. For my 2 euros worth, a green (extra fine) DMT diamond stone, honing guide and leather strop will work, but there are loads of different variations to suite different tastes and pocket depths. What's needed at the end of the jour is a honing system that suits your needs and that you can make work - Rob

 

[wizer]

I initially went for waterstones. They are very good but I find it a pain constantly flattening them and also they are messy. I have bought a couple of Eze Lap diamond plates, but I'm not sure I trust them. Ultimately I haven't settled on anything yet. I think I agree with Rob, get yourself a couple of DMT's. Do you have a honing guide? The Veritas Mk.II is very good. Also check out charlesworth's DVD's.

 

[OPJ]

I think oil stones are cheap enough and fairly easy to work with for a beginner who's trying to find his own way in the wide world of sharpening. Look out for stones from Norton, if you go down this route. Anything cheaper is just not worth bothering with.

Diamond stones seem very good but, I don't have much experience with them. I think they also require a larger investment, initially. I doubt they'll wear as easily as an oil stone can - without practice, of course.

If you're looking to plane hardwoods then you'll really benefit from purchasing an extra fine/ultra fine stone. I use a Spydecro Ceramic (somewhere between £40-£50? - Tilgear, Axminster...) and with a quick squirt of WD-40, you can quite easily get a mirror finish with relatively little effort! My understanding is that their wear resistance is great than Diamonds/DMTs...?

 

[woodbloke]

If you're looking to plane hardwoods then you'll really benefit from purchasing an extra fine/ultra fine stone. I use a Spydecro Ceramic (somewhere between £40-£50? - Tilgear, Axminster...) and with a quick squirt of WD-40, you can quite easily get a mirror finish with relatively little effort! My understanding is that their wear resistance is great than Diamonds/DMTs...?

...which is what I use as well, but for a complete novice the 10000g Spyderco might be a bit exotic - Rob

 

[Rob_H]

Do you have a honing guide? The Veritas Mk.II is very good. Also check out charlesworth's DVD's.

A lot to take in so far - just ordered the DVD - thanks. I haven't got a honing guide but I'm taking a look now.

 

[wizer]

I think whatever method you settle on, the honing guide will be the best investment. Charlesworth uses waterstones, but the DVD helps you get your head around what your actually doing when your sharpening.

 

[joiner_sim]

I have an EZE-LAP diamond stone, which I picked up from my local tool shop for about £30. It is a two sided stone, one a fine (300grit i think) and the other a coarse (600 grit). I just add water to the stone when sharpening. All my chisels and hand planes are ultra sharp when first sharpened on this stone. It takes quite alot of work until you need to re-sharpen.

They key to sharp hand tools is to have a flat back on the blade. You achieve this when the back is shiny and mirror like. Then sharpen your angle. Then once again flatten the back. You should then use a leather strop to get rid of any "burr". I don't have a leather strop, but just use a bit of thick cloth to try and do the best I can with it.

 

[tnimble]

I own and use both a set of norton water stones, ezelap diaond stone, dmt diamond plate, SiC and AlO abrasive sheets, lapping grit, and a tormek.

The waterstones are my fav for regular sharpening shisels and bench and block plane irons. I find flattening fast and bo reall hassle, there not messy and have a nice container. For one that does work on a job site any water stone would be a hassle tough. Having a good dedicated spot (running water around is handy but not mandatory)

Of the diamond stones / plates I have my doubts, at least with the ezelap. after some use they seem to 'break/bed in' irregularly and might have a small hollow over their length. But I still have to measure that for confirmation.

For the honing guide I can recommend both the Veritas MK II and the ecclipse style. The ecclipse style needs some shopmade setup jigs for easy and consistant results the Veritas has this build in. For narrow plane blades and chisels the ecclipse excels due to its sidewards clamping. Some plane blades have sloped sides which makes the Veritas excel for those. You will also find some old blades to have non parralell sides, which requires more setup care and requeires you using the same honing guide.

 

[bugbear]

For a complete novice to sharpening, can someone recommend a good stone - or whatever I need for sharpening plane irons and chisels. I don't mind paying a bit more for a good one, just don't want bog standard basic if it's not up to the job. I've always avoided planes as I didn't know how to sharpen, but I've bought a couple of old Records, I'm getting a Veritas soon, and want the right sharpening kit to go with them. Thanks

If you're a novice, I would strongly recommend getting some MDF, some spray glue, and some SiC paper (wet 'n' dry), in grits to 1200 (at least). This is known as the "scary sharp" system, for historical reasons.

These will give a superb edge, at very low capital cost. The techniqiues, sensitivity and "touch" you gain on this system will easily transfer to others.

Many of the expensive stones are good (thankfully) but all have their quirks. You might want some time (and experience) before making a judgement in an expensive arena.

There is NOT a widely accepted "if you've got enough money, this is best" solution to sharpening.

BugBear

 

[lurker]

:sign3:

 

[Dave S]

I agree with Bugbear too - save your money for the moment, otherwise you could be among the many who have splashed out loads of money and then sold it all because they decided that particular method didn't suit them.

Dave

 

[MikeG.]

Yep, I'm with Bugbear. For nearly 30 years I have used oilstones, and got pretty good results eventually.........but as soon as I got a sheet of glass and spray-mounted some sand-paper I got into a whole new world. It is so easy, and so accurate, that my oilstone has stood unused for 6 months now. You do get through a bit of sandpaper......but so what.

The only thing I don't like about the system is the damned silly American name........."Scary-sharp".

Mike

 

[wizer]

who have splashed out loads of money and then sold it all because they decided that particular method didn't suit them.

:lol: