Sharpening board station wood selection

[tibi]

Hello,

I would like to build myself a sharpening board where I would glue three diamond stones (coarse, medium and fine).

I do not want to buy a plywood, because I would need to buy a big board 1250 x 2500 mm and for a suitable thickness it gets pretty expensive and I would not use it up
I have some oak and ash wood available. Which one would you choose, as there will be a contact with water /glass cleaner.

Would you glue a stropping leather on the same board or shall I make a separate board so that it does not come in contact with liquid.

Would you use any finish on the board before glueing the stones?

Thank you.

 

[Jacob]

Hello,

I would like to build myself a sharpening board where I would glue three diamond stones (coarse, medium and fine).

I do not want to buy a plywood, because I would need to buy a big board 1250 x 2500 mm and for a suitable thickness it gets pretty expensive and I would not use it up
I have some oak and ash wood available. Which one would you choose, as there will be a contact with water /glass cleaner.

Would you glue a stropping leather on the same board or shall I make a separate board so that it does not come in contact with liquid.

Would you use any finish on the board before glueing the stones?

Thank you.

You don't need to glue them down - it's useful being able to turn them end to end. Any old scrap of wood will do with a lath at one end thinner than the stones so you can pass over them, and a lath at the other underneath, to ledge the board against the edge of your bench.
I'd use oil rather than the pointless fashionable alternatives. 3 in 1 thinned with turps or white spirit. Water is worst option of all.

 

[tibi]

You don't need to glue them down - it's useful being able to turn them end to end. Any old scrap of wood will do with a lath at one end thinner than the stones so you can pass over them, and a lath at the other underneath, to ledge the board against the edge of your bench.
I'd use oil rather than the pointless fashionable alternatives. 3 in 1 thinned with turps or white spirit. Water is worst option of all.

Thank you Jacob,

My chinese stones are 1 mm thick, so I cannot produce anything thinner. so you would use oil on diamond stones? I have never heard of that.

 

[Argus]

I can't comment on the 1 mm plates - I've never used them, but a selection of Eze-lap plates which are about 6 mm thick, have been on my bench for over 10 years. With the exception of carving slips it's all I use these days, they are a marvelous invention.

However, one good reason (often overlooked) for having removable plates, or 1 mm stones that can be removed as in your case, is the occasional need to give 'em a clean.

Whatever you use to float the debris, oil.... water....... window cleaner..... gin and tonic...... they can get a bit mucky in time with ingrained goo.

The best cleaner, in my opinion is the old fashioned abrasive kitchen sink cleaner... Vim or Ajax. When they start to look a bit 'glazed', give them a decent scrub and a good rinse, not forgetting a good drying out......

Happy sharpening.

 

[Jacob]

Thank you Jacob,

My chinese stones are 1 mm thick, so I cannot produce anything thinner. so you would use oil on diamond stones? I have never heard of that.

Don't know about 1mm plates. Oil is fine I think and also won't expand the wood like water would.

 

[tibi]

Don't know about 1mm plates. Oil is fine I think and also won't expand the wood like water would.

They are actually working fine, but I think I would need to glue them anyway. I tried it without glueing and I had to hold them with my other hand, so that they do not run all over the place. They do not have anti-slippery bottom. When I will clean them, I will clean the whole board as I would clean a cutting board in the kitchen.

 

[Cabinetman]

Probably best not to use oak as the metal particles will turn it black. You could make a template and router out one mil areas for the stones to drop into. Ian

 

[Argus]

If you have plates that are only 1 mm thick, there will be a tendency for them to bend in use, I suppose. So you'll need them fixed whether you use a jig or free-hand.

Therefore, if you are intent on gluing and leaving the possibility of washing in water, why not glue them onto a solid, but thick and flat floor tile that is about 300 mm x 300mm.
The tile approach gives you weight and rigidity, plus it's impervious to water.

 

[tibi]

If you have plates that are only 1 mm thick, there will be a tendency for them to bend in use, I suppose. So you'll need them fixed whether you use a jig or free-hand.

Therefore, if you are intent on gluing and leaving the possibility of washing in water, why not glue them onto a solid, but thick and flat floor tile that is about 300 mm x 300mm.
The tile approach gives you weight and rigidity, plus it's impervious to water.

This is probably what I will do. I will buy a tile that is thick enough to give me weight that it will not move while sharpening. If it still moves, I will build a wooden board with a frame around the tile, so that it is held firmly. Thank you.

 

[Argus]

Most tiles will be flat, though if you're shopping for a tile, it's a good idea to take a 300 mm or so straight edge to check it across the diagonals.

If it's a bit thin, get two and glue them together for strength.
Rubber pads glued on the back will stop it sliding around.

Good luck.

 

[JobandKnock]

... so you would use oil on diamond stones? I have never heard of that.

I do (so do my colleagues), and WD40, but out of preference paraffin-based lapping fluid. Water is the enemy on a construction site!

Most tiles will be flat...

That's not quite what the trade tilers I've worked with say! With some porcelain floor tiles they have a nightmare laying tiles so that there isn't too much difference (i.e a trip risk) between tiles. Polished marble or granite cutting "boards" tend to be far flatter and are cheap from places like Argos

 

[Ttrees]

I have to say rather happy with my ones which are bonded to some thick granite offcuts with some uhu epoxy from lidl, even though well filthy with a light scrape bonded without issue.

I have had a few occasions where the extra height, (about the same as an new oilstone comes in handy), for clearing things, and you can grab it aswell.

Some little cleats with tacks might be a better idea for holding the hone, than a whole frame around the thing.
I have that done with the fancy thinner plate, which its lower and lends itself better to the final work.
I just butt the other two hones against this one.

Don't use a strop much myself, but wouldn't want it stuck onto the plate
as my one gets filthy.

Might have another go at making one sometime.
I do a lot of metalwork so thinking of a way of covering that up,
the grit sticks to the slop, and you're gonna have to clean each off with the back of a cheap chisel, which is also my scraper, used twice on that current bit o ply.
That process is quite a wet job, so the plate is suspended over a plastic box and away from the tools.

Frank Klausz has an interesting one if intending to make something out of wood, just to see the boatbuilders wooden caulking trick.
Although the whole thing is designed for holding water, it might work?
or some inspiration possibly.

 

[Bristol_Rob]

If you check my IG link below you will see a photo of my sharpening board I made from old oak floor boards finished with screwfix yacht varnish.

It has a raised section in the middle so I can flatten chisels without fouling the outer stones.

All 3 stones are just friction fitted. I wouldn't recommend glueing them in.
Especially as I frequently pull out the diamond stone to flatten the 2 shapton glass stones.

My middle diamond plate is a 400/1000 stone.
The outer stones are 3,000 & 8,000
I have a separate strop. I didn't want my leather next to a water/fluid station.

My board has little rubber feet underneath which helps with skidding but putting 2 track saw clamps on my boards makes it solid.

Overall, I'm very happy with my board and I've not had any issues.

It also fits nicely into a Festool tray

Good luck

 

[pe2dave]

+1 on removable 'stones'. I keep mine in a box (made for them, cheap ply, stacked with separators).
On the bench I use that 'holy' non-slip matting.
Rationale? See Paul Sellers videos. Some blades you need to get to the edge of the plate, can't do
with 3 side by side. Cleaning? Just swill them under the tap and dry.
5yrs+ and the ply I used is still in one piece (B&Q scrap bins if you don't want a sheet). Works for me.

 

[Cabinetman]

I have to say rather happy with my ones which are bonded to some thick granite offcuts with some uhu epoxy from lidl, even though well filthy with a light scrape bonded without issue.

I have had a few occasions where the extra height, (about the same as an new oilstone comes in handy), for clearing things, and you can grab it aswell.

Some little cleats with tacks might be a better idea for holding the hone, than a whole frame around the thing.
I have that done with the fancy thinner plate, which its lower and lends itself better to the final work.
I just butt the other two hones against this one.

Don't use a strop much myself, but wouldn't want it stuck onto the plate
as my one gets filthy.

Might have another go at making one sometime.
I do a lot of metalwork so thinking of a way of covering that up,
the grit sticks to the slop, and you're gonna have to clean each off with the back of a cheap chisel, which is also my scraper, used twice on that current bit o ply.
That process is quite a wet job, so the plate is suspended over a plastic box and away from the tools.

Frank Klausz has an interesting one if intending to make something out of wood, just to see the boatbuilders wooden caulking trick.
Although the whole thing is designed for holding water, it might work?
or some inspiration possibly.

Thanks for that Frank Klausz trick, not something you would immediately think of but I can well imagine it will work.
Not sure I will ever use it but you never know what else it could inspire. Ian

 

[scholar]

For sharpening fluid on diamond stones (plus a ceramic one I use), I have switched to this stuff Diamond Lapping Fluid - Trend Direct UK.
I had long used WD40, but find this is much nicer to use. A little goes a long way, so I am still on my first bottle.

Cheers

 

[Jacob]

For sharpening fluid on diamond stones (plus a ceramic one I use), I have switched to this stuff Diamond Lapping Fluid - Trend Direct UK.
I had long used WD40, but find this is much nicer to use. A little goes a long way, so I am still on my first bottle.

Cheers

Very expensive stuff. Works out at £45 for 750 ml (wine bottle). A good single malt Whisky is cheaper!
Sharpening kit is a big money spinner.
I use 3in 1 oil thinned with white spirit. I'm certain it is just as good.