Sharpening a scraper

[MIGNAL]

Take any gouge (screwdriver perhaps) and it will do a better job than the two Cherries burnisher that I have.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

My two cherries burnisher is good, I have polished the shaft but its hard enough to work with out scratching.
I also have RS screwdriver that is hard enough to work as a scraper. its like these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/screwdrivers/0603586/ I cracked the tip off its that hard.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

Take any gouge (screwdriver perhaps) and it will do a better job than the two Cherries burnisher that I have.

I'm surprised at that - one of the reasons most dedicated burnishers are good and cheap is that for a "real" factory they're easy to make.

Just make high carbon steel very hard, grind and polish. Simple factory operations.

What's wrong with your example?

Edit; a search reveals that yours is too soft - although other people's factory made burnishers, even from the same maker, were hard.

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Yes and other people's burnisher from the same Two Cherries were soft too. I'm definitely not the only one.

 

[bugbear]

Yes and other people's burnisher from the same Two Cherries were soft too. I'm definitely not the only one.

Yeah - people reported definitely variability:

two-cherries-burnisher-t31667.html

Sounds like bad (soft) batch got out.

BugBear

 

[custard]

I was taught to use a scraper well by Bruce Luckhurst thirty years ago. Up until then I'd assumed that the bigger the burr the better.

But when Bruce burnished a scraper he barely kissed it, just a couple of soft strokes and that was that.

If you're removing varnish from a boat or paint from a door then okay; big burrs, aggressive angles, ultra hard and thick scrapers, and a carbide burnisher might well be the way to go. But for fine finishing on furniture timbers it's about a small burr, well formed, on a medium hard/fairly thin scraper. I don't think recent technology and tool fashions have much to offer the cabinetmaker in this area.

 

[mqbernardo]

Yes and other people's burnisher from the same Two Cherries were soft too. I'm definitely not the only one.

Yeah - people reported definitely variability:

two-cherries-burnisher-t31667.html

Sounds like bad (soft) batch got out.

ok, so it´s not just mine... it is actually the only two cherries product i regret buying. not much too add to the discussion... except that if you have an oily skin, it makes for a good and quick lubricant.

 

[imageel]

I used to use a rod of silver steel I picked up in a scrap yard, but now use a burnisher fashioned out of an old car engine exhaust valve stem - these are incredibly hard and can only be cut using a grinder. Exhaust rather than inlet ones are best since they are treated to support much higher temperatures, and if cut slowly do not seem to lose much hardness in the process.
/Ed

 

[David C]

That's the way to do it !

Extra hard and best possible polish are required.

For many years I used an ejector pin from a plastic moulding machine, kindly given to me by a student.

Today some powder metallurgy tooling, donated by Tony Zaffuto.

The carbide tools are good but this talk of screwdriver shafts and gouge backs is not helpful to the beginner. Yes some may work but many will not, causing frustration and dissapointment.

David Charlesworth

 

[MIGNAL]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Valve ... 35c34c6094

Shipping included. Got to be worth trying it!

 

[David C]

Yes, we used to use diesel engine gudgeon pins.

David

 

[mqbernardo]

had i known that a bit earlier, i wouldn´t have ordered an Hock burnisher...

 

[Trafalgar]

How to sharpen a scraper:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKZWqdPFul8