Shaker End Tables
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Chems
Established Member
No not a guild member, I do love the WW thou, I used to be a fan of T-Chisel but have totally changed camps and don't like him much anymore but can't get enough of the WW. I saw the latest video of loads of pictures of different ones.
Theres a lot of building in such a little table, I've never wanted for a bandsaw before but working with real wood again I can see the attraction defiantly, you end up wasting a lot of wood with out resaw capacity.
Theres a lot of building in such a little table, I've never wanted for a bandsaw before but working with real wood again I can see the attraction defiantly, you end up wasting a lot of wood with out resaw capacity.
Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi Chems,
Tung Oil is ok but it takes a dogs age to dry. I'd prefer either standard Chestnut Finishing Oil or you could try the new Hard Wax Oil which promises to be harder wearing. Oil always looks good on Oak, that's for sure!!
Tables look great, not sure about your technique for chamfering the undersides of the tops though, it looks like something Norm would do :roll: :roll: :shock: :shock: !! Be safer on a Router table if you've got one.
Best of luck with selling them!!
Cheers
Richard
Tung Oil is ok but it takes a dogs age to dry. I'd prefer either standard Chestnut Finishing Oil or you could try the new Hard Wax Oil which promises to be harder wearing. Oil always looks good on Oak, that's for sure!!
Tables look great, not sure about your technique for chamfering the undersides of the tops though, it looks like something Norm would do :roll: :roll: :shock: :shock: !! Be safer on a Router table if you've got one.
Best of luck with selling them!!
Cheers
Richard
wizer
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I agree with Richard. One of the Hardwax oils (Osmo, Fiddes, Chestnut) would be ideal for this. Easy to apply and great finish which you can build up to the lustre you like. I've not yet used Chestnut or Fiddes, but I'm sure they're all similar.
chingerspy
Established Member
I was thinking the same thing re TWW 
Very nice Chems. Is anyone a guild member. I think I could benefit and would enjoy the community aspect but it all seems more worthwhile if you are in the US (store discounts etc.)
Sorry I can't offer real advice on selling them. Is there a high street "gallery" style shop or something locally that you can have a chat with?
As for finishes, you could go all out TWW and use Arm-R-Seal from General Finishes - CHT sells it.
Very nice Chems. Is anyone a guild member. I think I could benefit and would enjoy the community aspect but it all seems more worthwhile if you are in the US (store discounts etc.)Sorry I can't offer real advice on selling them. Is there a high street "gallery" style shop or something locally that you can have a chat with?
As for finishes, you could go all out TWW and use Arm-R-Seal from General Finishes
- CHT sells it.
Chems
Established Member
I'll have a look at the Chestnut finishing oil as I can get that easily with out making an internet order. Whats the hard wax stuff?
Richard, yeah I have a router table, its pictured more than once :roll: I have a huge chamfer bit but its 45 degrees, and these are 45mm deep at about 15 degree slope, don't think you could get that with a router bit, specially not cheap. TS is great for panel raising like this, looks a bit hairy buts its fine in reality.
Most of the guild videos look like they are done by other people not marc, I'm not sure I'd invest in it to be honest like you say better if your an American.
Richard, yeah I have a router table, its pictured more than once :roll: I have a huge chamfer bit but its 45 degrees, and these are 45mm deep at about 15 degree slope, don't think you could get that with a router bit, specially not cheap. TS is great for panel raising like this, looks a bit hairy buts its fine in reality.
Most of the guild videos look like they are done by other people not marc, I'm not sure I'd invest in it to be honest like you say better if your an American.
Richard Findley
Established Member
Chems
Take a look here: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/new-finish-from-chestnut-t40538.html to find out more about the Hard Wax Oil. Feedback seems to be positive!!
I'll take your word for it on the table saw!!! Wealdon do a cutter for about £50 that looks about right and may be worth a look if you're going into production with these: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Large_Raise_198.html
Cheers
Richard
Take a look here: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/new-finish-from-chestnut-t40538.html to find out more about the Hard Wax Oil. Feedback seems to be positive!!
I'll take your word for it on the table saw!!! Wealdon do a cutter for about £50 that looks about right and may be worth a look if you're going into production with these: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Large_Raise_198.html
Cheers
Richard
wizer
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Arm R Seal is a bit different from HardWax Oil. I prefer it for some stuff.
The Guild videos are all made by Marc, none by other people. There's been some interviews with other furniture makers or woodworking 'talent'. But it's mainly build stuff or techniques. It is much more valuable to American users. I only subscribe because I get so bored sitting at this bloody computer. Marc's thinking about making the guild video content available at a charge per video. This will probably make sense to us Brits. We can then pick and choose which content we want to see.
The Guild videos are all made by Marc, none by other people. There's been some interviews with other furniture makers or woodworking 'talent'. But it's mainly build stuff or techniques. It is much more valuable to American users. I only subscribe because I get so bored sitting at this bloody computer. Marc's thinking about making the guild video content available at a charge per video. This will probably make sense to us Brits. We can then pick and choose which content we want to see.
jhwbigley
Established Member
Chems":249qrxcn said:
:shock:
Chems
Established Member
Richard Findley":5tdz3v1m said:
Takes so long with the router, need lots of passes. I'm a very careful TS user and it doesn't feel wrong at all when you do it, most important thing is to make a zero clearance plate of some sort for the specific cut.
OPJ
Established Member
They look nice, Chems. I might have made the legs slightly thicker or kept them slightly wider at the bottom of the tapers but, it's fine line between having something that looks like too much a taper and a tapered leg that still looks parallel... If that makes sense! You probably wouldn't want to cut the legs from thicker stock as the current thickness works well with the bevelled edges of the top.
I bought some of the Chestnut hardwax oil from Richard this week and my first impressions are that it's not quite as thick as the Osmo oil, which makes it a bit easier to apply (photos in a couple of days...). It's really great stuff and this kind of finish is more hard-wearing than other oils (Danish, linseed, tung, finishing, etc.). Also, it barely darkens the wood, unlike the others. :wink:
I glued up a 6mm drawer base the other day and this is how I did it:
Very similar to your setup except, I clamped a pair of strips at each end to keep the ends as flat as possible. If you're worried about these sticking, putting a bit of wax on the mating surface. :wink: It's not just Titebond III but, with their other two main glues (I and II), you can also remove the cramps after half an hour (as long as you don't stress the joints!).
I can see why you want to cut those chamfers on the table saw (are you cleaning them up with your plane, afterwards?) but I would make the left-hand guard at least 100mm tall, so there's no way your left hand can get in there! :? If you made it wide enough, you could also have a surface for running a push-stick along, which should keep your hands even further away (though, personally, I'd prefer to do this on a router table first!!).
Selling - you could approach any local shops, galleries, or try to get your nose in to any forth-coming exhibitions that might be going on (?). Be aware that most shops will want to add their own 'mark-up' though, which could greatly increase the selling price, even by an extra 50-100%. :?
Pricing - obviously, you need to look seriously at how long these have taken you to make. It's generally "easiest" to look at the number of days - £250 per day (ten-hours). Though, if your overheads are low enough, you might want to get away with charging £20 p/h... But then, what do you do when you move to a larger workshop? Suddenly bump your prices up sharply and frighten all your previous clients away? Another way is to break it down in to processes - how long does it take you to perform each action of the build? Is there anything you could do to make each process faster, more efficient? If you need to reduce your costs, which parts of the design(s) could you alter? If these first two sold quickly, would you look at producing a larger batch, which could also reduce costs slightly?
Do it both ways (counting the number of days and the calculated time spent on each process) and I'll bet the results are different!
Oh, and don't forget to add your material costs (including wastage allowance) on top!
You probably wouldn't want to cut the legs from thicker stock as the current thickness works well with the bevelled edges of the top.I bought some of the Chestnut hardwax oil from Richard this week and my first impressions are that it's not quite as thick as the Osmo oil, which makes it a bit easier to apply (photos in a couple of days...). It's really great stuff and this kind of finish is more hard-wearing than other oils (Danish, linseed, tung, finishing, etc.). Also, it barely darkens the wood, unlike the others. :wink:
I glued up a 6mm drawer base the other day and this is how I did it:
Very similar to your setup except, I clamped a pair of strips at each end to keep the ends as flat as possible. If you're worried about these sticking, putting a bit of wax on the mating surface. :wink: It's not just Titebond III but, with their other two main glues (I and II), you can also remove the cramps after half an hour (as long as you don't stress the joints!).
I can see why you want to cut those chamfers on the table saw (are you cleaning them up with your plane, afterwards?) but I would make the left-hand guard at least 100mm tall, so there's no way your left hand can get in there! :? If you made it wide enough, you could also have a surface for running a push-stick along, which should keep your hands even further away (though, personally, I'd prefer to do this on a router table first!!
).Selling - you could approach any local shops, galleries, or try to get your nose in to any forth-coming exhibitions that might be going on (?). Be aware that most shops will want to add their own 'mark-up' though, which could greatly increase the selling price, even by an extra 50-100%. :?
Pricing - obviously, you need to look seriously at how long these have taken you to make. It's generally "easiest" to look at the number of days - £250 per day (ten-hours). Though, if your overheads are low enough, you might want to get away with charging £20 p/h... But then, what do you do when you move to a larger workshop? Suddenly bump your prices up sharply and frighten all your previous clients away? Another way is to break it down in to processes - how long does it take you to perform each action of the build? Is there anything you could do to make each process faster, more efficient? If you need to reduce your costs, which parts of the design(s) could you alter? If these first two sold quickly, would you look at producing a larger batch, which could also reduce costs slightly?
Do it both ways (counting the number of days and the calculated time spent on each process) and I'll bet the results are different!
Oh, and don't forget to add your material costs (including wastage allowance) on top!
Benchwayze
Established Member
Chems,
Nice tables and an interesting WIP. These are cock-on for the bedroom.
I like to see Shaker stuff made in Cherry, but that's personal preference
Regards
John
Nice tables and an interesting WIP. These are cock-on for the bedroom.
I like to see Shaker stuff made in Cherry, but that's personal preference
Regards
John
Chems
Established Member
Just a quick reply from my phone. Panel raising on the saw is much more fun! Hands never need to get close i do it with a pair of push sticks an clean up with card scraper. I meant to say at the start i got the plans online so taper etc are from the plan. I'd be happy for three hundred for the pair, in materials each cost 50. I was going quite quick at the start but found i slowed right down. The leigh jig is great but takes so long to set up, once done you can do the drawers in about 3mins but doesn't work out for only 2 drawers. Thanks for all the feedback!
rileytoolworks
Established Member
Chems, with regards selling these (finely crafted - well done!) tables, have you considered asking a 'gallery' to sell them on commission?
I know near you there is the Heart Of The Shires and that old dairy farm at Upper Weedon (I think). If I were you, I'd approach somewhere local like this, explain that you've made some speculative pieces and ask if they'd be interested in selling them on your behalf.
Nice tables. I was looking at your pictures last night and secretly hating you for the space you've got!!!
Adam.
I know near you there is the Heart Of The Shires and that old dairy farm at Upper Weedon (I think). If I were you, I'd approach somewhere local like this, explain that you've made some speculative pieces and ask if they'd be interested in selling them on your behalf.
Nice tables. I was looking at your pictures last night and secretly hating you for the space you've got!!!
Adam.
ByronBlack
Established Member
To sell - I know it's obvious and might not be the right place, but you'll be surprised: ebay - if you do a nice job with the listing and photos to seperate it from the usual bargain hunters rubbish you might get lucky - I've bought a number of 'premium' items from ebay before so it's not just for the cheap stuff.
Also, ask around your friends and family and work colleagues. I sell a lot of stuff this way before I list things on ebay or amazon marketplace.
And has been mentioned before; local galleries, furniture/antique stores etc..
Also, ask around your friends and family and work colleagues. I sell a lot of stuff this way before I list things on ebay or amazon marketplace.
And has been mentioned before; local galleries, furniture/antique stores etc..
Chems
Established Member
Riley, Bryon, thanks for the pointers, I'll defiantly try ebay. I did contact terrigena who sell furniture not far from here and got a maybe type response, send through some photos.
When you say Gallery, what sort of gallery do you mean, like a normal art gallery?
Riley, I did drop into Heart of the Shires the only furniture place there is Fraiser James and didn't ask but didn't think an exclusive kitchen place would be best. Envy my space, but don't forget, I've got your saw also! :twisted:
Benchwayze, I did notice that after I started, next ones will be cherry
Whilst were here I've also made a website for myself I'd really like to start having my tools pay some money back!
www.TimberWorks.org
(I know one of the pictures doesn't match up on the ordering bit, its cause obviously I don't have a completed picture of the table yet)
When you say Gallery, what sort of gallery do you mean, like a normal art gallery?
Riley, I did drop into Heart of the Shires the only furniture place there is Fraiser James and didn't ask but didn't think an exclusive kitchen place would be best. Envy my space, but don't forget, I've got your saw also! :twisted:
Benchwayze, I did notice that after I started, next ones will be cherry
Whilst were here I've also made a website for myself I'd really like to start having my tools pay some money back!
www.TimberWorks.org
(I know one of the pictures doesn't match up on the ordering bit, its cause obviously I don't have a completed picture of the table yet)
rileytoolworks
Established Member
Chems":22sl968i said:
That's it. Bloody well rub it in...
Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi Chems,
Website is looking good!!!
Don't forget, if you're using Cherry, it's quite a bit dearer than Oak!!!!
Back to that cut on the T/S, if you are comfortable doing it then that's something, I'd be inclined to make up some sort of guard though, maybe an inverted "L" shape which also adds pressure wood to fence to help stabilise it and guard the blade/fingers (I think that's pretty much what Olly was getting at)
Olly - Glad you like the HWO!!
Cheers
Richard
Website is looking good!!!
Don't forget, if you're using Cherry, it's quite a bit dearer than Oak!!!!
Back to that cut on the T/S, if you are comfortable doing it then that's something, I'd be inclined to make up some sort of guard though, maybe an inverted "L" shape which also adds pressure wood to fence to help stabilise it and guard the blade/fingers (I think that's pretty much what Olly was getting at)
Olly - Glad you like the HWO!!
Cheers
Richard
Chems
Established Member
Yes just checked my price list, Oak is £40 a cube and Cherry £75. Like you say quite a big difference!
If I wasn't so eager to get it done in the future I may make a type of sled that runs along/over the fence like a tenon jig. But to be honest I'm not sure I'd go to the bother, with big pieces like my fingers are a long way away and I'm off to the side.
Thanks for the Gallery idea I got a lead on a Gallery that is interested to buy them. See how it goes fingers crossed.
If I wasn't so eager to get it done in the future I may make a type of sled that runs along/over the fence like a tenon jig. But to be honest I'm not sure I'd go to the bother, with big pieces like my fingers are a long way away and I'm off to the side.
Thanks for the Gallery idea I got a lead on a Gallery that is interested to buy them. See how it goes fingers crossed.
