Setting up a bandsaw. RPBS12.

[rich1911]

I think I have blade tracking set ok (it stays on the wheels!) not 100% sure about correct tension though.

Also how close should the two sets of three ball-race blade guides be set? I have them such that they spin with the blade but you can stop them easily with a carefully placed stick. I assume they should not be forced in hard against the blade but just enough to keep it from wandering.

If anyone has a pdf manual I would appreciate it!

Cheers!

 

[Spectric]

The rear guide should be fag paper close but not touching and the important thing about the two side bearings / guides is that they must sit behind the gullet of the blade otherwise you will damage the blade, again close but not touching.

Look for Snodgrass and bandsaw setup.

 

[Ttrees]

Yeah, the Snodgrass video is often mentioned,
after all, the guy is charismatic and demonstrates a quick run down of the day to day setting up, regarding swapping over blades and such.
With that said, as far as I know, he hasn't produced anything close to what could be called an initial
setup or commissioning of the machine from what I've seen.

Plenty of recent posts of that on this here forum though.

All the best
Tom

 

[MichaelChou]

There is a pdf download here
https://www.recordpower.co.uk/support/page/product/prod/standard-12-bandsaw

 

[Ttrees]

Here's pretty much the only way to do it with any surety atall.
I'll not post much as I've already done so in multiple threads, but mention leveling the machine
in two axis, should your wheels not be coplanar, or the guidepost being out, you'd have a better idea on what choices you have.

The beam with biro installed will find wear or an error of the bandwheel if present,
hence the tape to compare marks,
and if things are looking good then you will have a reliable reference to check the lower wheel
is in alignment, and after that the motor pulley to match.

Should look something like this below, although it's a lie, as my wheel has bore wear
so that line ain't what it seems, and it was just pretending really because it's not consistent whatsoever... (I chased my tail not knowing this at the time)
But for a new machine, that shouldn't be an issue.....
That's not to say you cant buy a brand new lemon, BTDT guys couldn't fix it either.

It's a sure way of showing an error, and what's more than this, can be done without any damage
or adjustments (which might void your warranty)

Here's what I mean by showing bore wear or error, this is why this needs doing before alignment.
One would hope not to see this, as it's unusable if so.

Even with the wheel installed inside out, the same will occur

I guess this might be a waste of time posting, but should it not, I guess someone will realize
that anyone who hasn't done this is a chancer, and go find the full article with all the details.

All the best
Tom

 

[pgrbff]

Yeah, the Snodgrass video is often mentioned,
after all, the guy is charismatic and demonstrates a quick run down of the day to day setting up, regarding swapping over blades and such.
With that said, as far as I know, he hasn't produced anything close to what could be called an initial
setup or commissioning of the machine from what I've seen.

Plenty of recent posts of that on this here forum though.

All the best
Tom

I bought and read 3 books before buying a bandsaw, I think Snodgrass does a very good job of the complete setup. I agree that if the saw has a fault the video probably won't help. The best instruction is to play with the saw, there is after all a lot of conflicting advice.
I'm having a niggly problem with my new N2 35, with a wider blade and the gullet in the centre of the wheel it only just touches the thrust bearing edge and can easily be pushed off. If I move the blade position on the tyre, the gullet no longer central, there isn't enough adjustment in the trunnion to table holes to eliminate drift when using a mitre gauge. If you understand the basics you can find a solution on your own.

 

[Ttrees]

My gripe with good enough is that means differing things to different folks.
Having had the experience of three differing manufacturers having wheel issues,
you might understand where I'm coming from.

I've only seen evidence of two methods regarding wheel alignment before,
which dealt with this,
I'll just give the link
Noting that inspection of the bore needs doing first!

Another thing worth noting, both these machines below seemingly are direct drive
so one less thing to align... Another telling tale to me, as I've seen some frankly surprising results from the likes of the little Inca machine, which might suggest there's possibly something to this, and not just for concern of wear of the bores, but for performance sake also.
http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7269&p=120635&hilit=inca#p120635

And for @pgrbff another book mentioned if you're interested, what's on page 1.
Not read it, so unsure if it's any good.
Some bizarre stuff out there, like dressing tires freehand using a paddle, daft carry on really,
I would hope it's not as simple a rundown as you could write, as the review of sorts mentioned swapping wheels over, so at least a nod from a maintenance perspective regarding blending tire wear, which would presumably go into detail regarding the ability to
track the blade on both wheels the same, so it might well mention east-west jacking shaft alignment aswell.


https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/1381828-bandsaw-woes

and mention of at least one method to denote a problem by way of dynamic tests which Trevanion mentioned over at TWH2, but I didn't query him about it.
I guess removing the table is too much effort for some folk when time is money, and presumably a
tooled up machine room is nearby.

Not checking alignment is asking for trouble, if you ask me,
and yet to see anything else other than above what could be considered reliable .
though I've read through many other suggestions and tips before which turned out to be rubbish.

I guess this suggestion might be in some book, should it not, a time is money/too lazy to do it right and remove the table method, might be
simply tracking the blade as needed for the block to register against the wheel rims,
and adjusting the lower wheel so equal scuffing is present on all,
still a bit chancy for my liking.


Saying that, it's more than a bit difficult to spot bore error without the lines,
and no reason it wouldn't be possible with an assembled machine,
and should one be doing those dynamic tests instead of what I've demonstrated,
(which needs be done prior, there's no question about that)
then it makes no sense to start off identifying a problem without anything to go on beyond knowing its off.

It seems a touchy subject to some...
The taking of insult, coming mostly from those who've been either lucky straight off the bat,
or those who use their machine for curve cutting tasks and never looked twice at the saw.

Plenty proof out there to make one question things, like perfect bearings in worn bores,
or simply the fact of noticeable performance without excuses,
i.e like breaking the rules and using a dull blade if need be,
many folks saws wouldn't like that,
Longer duration of things wearing (tires and thrust guides) and noise reduction are other clues,
that the saw is running well, but not much point in mentioning beam tension for a 12" machine,
just mentioning that the bandsaw often seems to take a back seat, say compared to a bog standard TS, should one be looking for details or techniques of alignment and whatnot,
we don't settle for less regarding that.

All the best
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

I'd love to come across something other than what could be only be described as strictly bandsaw blade setup.

Not much out there, Rikon have a rough guide of troubleshooting, which is a bit lacking to say the least.

Here's hoping I can fix the bore issue on my machine sooner rather than later, and show ye for real this time.

As always still awaiting some kinda skepticism of my findings,
and I challenge anyone to find an easier way of doing things...

Easier and more accurate than a pen on a beam?

No doubt it's been done before for something, if not for bandwheels,
bearing in mind those knowledgeable folks of old, likely didn't have a sheet metal
saw with a base to write on, and some curved casting might have been in the way,
whilst some other machines having pits in the ground.
None of that lends itself easily in having a line to work to, compared to the sheet metal
or previous in-between, Italian styled machines we've had since the 70's.

All the best
Tom