Seeking Assistance regarding router/s and router table inserts please

[accipiter]

Hi everyone. I'm aware that quite a bit of what I'm about to mention/ask about has more than likely been covered some time in the past - and/or in YT vids - so I give apologies now for going over old ground. I'd like to make this a short post for help but can't see that happening because of trying to provide as much information as I can, for you, to cover where I'm at at this moment which has brought me to post. Please bear with me

I'm about to (have to) make up a *portable* router table top as I have some small (thin) bits to work on and they can't be done either stuck down with double sided tape or held in some type of clamping device - i.e. workmate of similar - I also have a use for the router table for other woodworking so this is not *just* for these items.

Until now I've managed to use a Lidls/Parkside router table by adapting the bases - making an insert - on two old 1/4" routers, namely an old B&D (40-45 years old?) and an Elu 96 (30'ish years old) and a "scissor lift" as a raiser. The Parkside router table is for routers with bases *up to 155mm* - I've put that in bold because of coming across a very old thread re that size of base dating back to 2010 which caused a bit of a stir - and that's 11 years ago and I'm not wanting to create the same again...

Sadly I can no longer use these two old routers because they died on me a few days ago which is why I'm now having to look at making something with the Rockler Phenolic Router Plate for Non-Triton Routers 1-1/2'' x 4'' 910661 I purchased from Yandle's 11 months ago - knowing at some point I'd be making a router table when I got to sort out the workshop. Trying to find a router with a 155mm base is not easy so I'm at something of a loss regarding what to do with the table - although I'm waiting to hear from the manufacturer/supplier re routers/base 155mm...

Because these old two routers died I went looking for replacements and bought a Trend T7 1/2" 2100W variable speed from Toolstation and also a Bosch POF 1200 AE 1/4" from Axminster because of the *acceptable* prices of £149.99 and £66.98... and I couldn't find any mentions of base plate sizes on ANY routers I looked at. Probably wrong in buying these two because of the base sizes being (approx.) 165mm and 171mm but as I'm attempting to fit one/either one to the base plate from Yandle's I wasn't viewing the purchases as such *for the existing table* when buying.

Now I'm preparing the top for inserting the plate I'm not so sure because a/ the Bosch 1200 AE has an auto locking clamp which has to be depressed to 'release' so you can plunge and b/ the screws that attach the base plates to the routers are not long enough for me to re-use to attach the router/s to the Rockler plate... and I don't know (haven't been able to find out) what the threads are on these. The plate is approx. 3/8" - 9.5mm? - thick. The screws for the router base plates are approx. 1/4"~3/8". Any one know these threads - or where I can get that information from please? I *have* marked out the router base plates shapes and screw positions on the insert but not yet drilled for mounting the router/s OR cut out for inserting the plate in to the selected top: 24mm MRMDF.

I'm tending towards using the Bosch 1200 AE because I've been able to find a "lift retrofit kit for Bosch POF 1400 ACE 1200 AE" for raising/lowering the router - - - but unsure IF I have to remove or somehow disable the "auto locking clamp" and/or remove one or both springs??? The same applies with regards to the Trend T7 regarding the springs but the "clamping trigger" is different as *you* have to apply it to lock depth unlike with the Bosch and I've yet to sort a lift mechanism for it.

So, I guess, basically, the questions/assistance I'm looking for are in respect of;
1/ where can I find longer screws of the correct thread for fixing the base/s to the Rockler plate
2/ can anyone advise if I need to - and how to - disable the "Auto Locking Clamp" on the Bosch and if I remove one or both - if any - plunge springs in the "arms"
3/ IF using the T7 do I remove the springs - one or both? - and ideas for a lift system
4/ Anyone able to tell me of a router WITH a 155mm base plate - so I can still make use of the Parkside router table
And 5/... * for metal workers* mostly - if no 155mm base routers known of "is it possible to alter the base plate insert area of this existing table - - - it's cast steel I think(???) - I wouldn't be attempting this myself but possibly a local metal works place. I've yet to ask them as I've only just thought of this one

Hopefully I've provided ALL information for members to be able to offer assistance - if I haven't put those reading to the end to sleep Thanks ALL for your time

 

[Inspector]

If I understand the router plate you bought you remove the plastic base from the metal of the router and use it to drill the holes and reuse the original screws. If your screws aren't long enough then you should be able to go to a good hardware store/building centre and find some longer ones. The 155mm base thing isn't critical as long as the mounting screws have some meat around them to support the weight. So no holes on the edge and a round base or square should work if it fits and you can centre the router on it for marking and drilling.

Pete

 

[Spectric]

The Dewalt 625 or the big Triton are good table routers, removing plunge springs is normal to make adjustments easier. There are two sizes of router plates, the imperial size used by Incra, Jessem and Woodpecker and the metric size used by UJK (Axminster). Search these forums and you will find a lot of info, all depends how easy you want to make adjusting the lift, and how much you want to spend. If the rockler plate has threads then they will be imperial, unf like much of the non euro stuff. My Kreg and Triton all used imperial threads and required imperial sized tools which can be a pain.

 

[accipiter]

Thanks for responding @Inspector ☺

Yes... I did remove the plastic base plate/s and use them to mark out positions for plate and screws on to the Rockler plate. A problem I have here is limited access to a *good hardware store* with staff able to get the correct threads. Virtually all such things come in sealed pre-packs of X in number. I can find longer ones with no trouble... it's getting the correct thread so I don't mess up/strip the existing threads in the metal base/s.

Re the 155mm... the table with this size is set by a lip and a router base of 155mm is set into it and then clamps are swung over and tightened down to hold in place. Probably some photos would help but I wanted to save some time.

 

[accipiter]

Thanks Roy (@Spectric ) for responding. ☺

Based on prices the two you mention were/are out of my budget - hence getting the ones I mention. I'd have loved to go with something like the Axminster etc., but... I'm therefore stuck with those and have to work with them. I'll check out those forums you mention.

 

[Spectric]

When you get rich or just fancy spending then look at the AUK router and Jessem lift as it is a very good router package and there are many threads here that will mention it.

 

[accipiter]

When you get rich or just fancy spending then look at the AUK router and Jessem lift as it is a very good router package and there are many threads here that will mention it.

If I can do so...and before the wife knows... I will

I've looked at many YT videos on building router tables, bench inserts etc., etc., with some envy - along with other equipment and would love to change what I have but my small workshop area is extremely limiting

 

[Inspector]

Thanks for responding @Inspector ☺

Yes... I did remove the plastic base plate/s and use them to mark out positions for plate and screws on to the Rockler plate. A problem I have here is limited access to a *good hardware store* with staff able to get the correct threads. Virtually all such things come in sealed pre-packs of X in number. I can find longer ones with no trouble... it's getting the correct thread so I don't mess up/strip the existing threads in the metal base/s.

Re the 155mm... the table with this size is set by a lip and a router base of 155mm is set into it and then clamps are swung over and tightened down to hold in place. Probably some photos would help but I wanted to save some time.

Try a car mechanic. If he doesn't't have any in his stock he will be able to check them and tell you what it is. You can see if the thread pitch is right by making sure the diameter of the one you are getting is the same diameter and by laying the screw on the threads of the new one lengthwise. If correct the two will nest tight if different pitches they won't or you will see gaps between the two.

Pete

 

[accipiter]

Try a car mechanic. If he doesn't' have any in his stock he will be able to check them and tell you what it is. You can see if the thread pitch is right by making sure the diameter of the one you are getting is the same diameter and by laying the screw on the threads of the new one lengthwise. If correct the two will nest tight if different pitches they won't or you will see gaps between the two.

Pete

Brilliant suggestion @Inspector - thank you.

 

[Tris]

It'd be a bit of a bodge but can you fit an MDF or plastic blanking plate to your parkside table then clamp the new router to the underside of the table using the threaded holes or studs for the clamps and some careful drilling of the routers plate?

 

[accipiter]

It'd be a bit of a bodge but can you fit an MDF or plastic blanking plate to your parkside table then clamp the new router to the underside of the table using the threaded holes or studs for the clamps and some careful drilling of the routers plate?

Sadly I don't think so. The Parkside table has a circular insert section, 155mm diameter, underneath. This has a "wall" acting as a boundary. The base of a (155mm) router fits in this and there are four clamps to swing round and tighten to hold the router in place.

My Q5 was to do with trying to remove this "wall" so flattening the base of the table underneath. With it being of cast steel I don't think it's an option.
Thanks for the input though

 

[accipiter]

Slight update regarding the screws/bolts for the attached plastic plate for the Trend T7. I have found and ordered a pack from Trend Direct UK.
"Trend FIX/KIT/2 Fixing kit router Tables countersink screw
SKU: FIX/KIT/2" They state it is for use to attach the routers to *home made tables* so should be the correct thread.

 

[baldkev]

What pete said!

I bought an aluminium 'universal' router table insert. Its about 250mm x 300mm. It didnt fit either of my machines, so i carefully marked out the holes using the plastic base plates and countersunk, tyen drilled through.
I then made a piece of ply that fits very snugly around the insert plate and using a top bearing router bit i can now sink that plate in whatever i want. Ive got a cutout in one of my workbenches, a spare tabletop for my knockdown saw table ( for site use ) and i modified an old workmate to clamp the routers and plate in. Its amazing how often it gets used.

I had machine screws that already fit the machines ( both different ) makita and hitachi.

 

[accipiter]

What pete said!

I bought an aluminium 'universal' router table insert. Its about 250mm x 300mm. It didnt fit either of my machines, so i carefully marked out the holes using the plastic base plates and countersunk, tyen drilled through.
I then made a piece of ply that fits very snugly around the insert plate and using a top bearing router bit i can now sink that plate in whatever i want. Ive got a cutout in one of my workbenches, a spare tabletop for my knockdown saw table ( for site use ) and i modified an old workmate to clamp the routers and plate in. Its amazing how often it gets used.

I had machine screws that already fit the machines ( both different ) makita and hitachi.

Cheers @baldkev

I had done the marking of the two router bases as I couldn't, still can't, decide for certain which I'd use - the Trend T7 or the Bosch 1200 AE. As I've marked out I *may* just go ahead and drill out for both so I have the opportunity to change over to either - the T7 is a 1/2" (with provided 1/4" insert) collet and the 1200 AE is a 1/4" with a 6mm & 8mm collets provided. I'm at the stage of having cut out the opening for the Rockler base insert and just need to do the levelling out - one corner is a tad high. I'm also waiting on the fixing kit I mentioned finding on line at Trend Direct... searching for possible parts list which would give the screw/bolt sizes and found the kit. Hopefully the kit will be here today or Monday latest. Gives time to make up a "homemade" fence etc.

I've been able to answer my question regarding the 155mm base router... I visited the web site and contacted the maker/supplier from information in the router table manual. Seems they do quite a bit of stuff and a router with a 155mm base is one of them. I contacted them to get them to confirm that the router *did* have a 155mm base, which they have confirmed, and I've gone and ordered one. 6mm, 8mm, 1/4 "(6.35mm) collets. So I now can help others that are buying such router tables from places such as Lidls and Aldi etc., IF they take 155mm base routers I' sure others may think three routers is a bit of overkill but I'm sure to find a use for all three - actually four with the 30+ year old Bosch 1700 E 1/2" (+ 1/4" & 8mm collets)... but this one is a heavy lump - more so than the two new ones I have here.
https://www.walteronline.com/de/werkzeug/elektrowerkzeuge/hobel-fraesen/oberfraese-1200-w-p10915
Now need to decide about the Bosch 1200 AE (and T7) re removal of the spring/springs... and the auto clamping lock on the 1200 AE for use in this homemade top with the Rockler base insert???

 

[baldkev]

If you drill out both sets of holes, just make sure theres enough metal around the holes. My palm router is mounted at 90° to the 1/2" because the holes would have been too close.

I cant advise with the spring clamps. On mine i set it using the original levers, i dont have a depth setup on my plate

 

[accipiter]

If you drill out both sets of holes, just make sure theres enough metal around the holes. My palm router is mounted at 90° to the 1/2" because the holes would have been too close.

I cant advise with the spring clamps. On mine i set it using the original levers, i dont have a depth setup on my plate

Cheers.

Mine is made of "phenolic" material unlike yours. There is only one hole from both plates that align so I may be OK. The bosch has three holding screws while the T7 has six - - - maybe I wouldn't need to use all six .

More research (vids on YT?) possibly re the springs and that auto locking clamp lever