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ND:

Excellent writeup. I like the color too. I have a few questions and comments.

1. Although it worked for you, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil and doesn't do all that good a job of loosening up rusted parts. Someone doing a full restoration like this should get a spray can of penetrating oil (probably found at an auto parts store), or roll their own by mixing up a 50/50 batch of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Don't make much--a little will go a long way.

2. I use a folding engine hoist to remove heavy parts like cast iron tables and large motors. It keeps my friends from avoiding my phone calls.

3. Does this machine have a pressure bar between the cutterhead and the outfeed roller? It doesn't look like it, but I might be missing it.

4. Upon reassembly, did you adjust the tables so they were parallel to the head? What about adjusting the feed rolls so they were at the same distance below the cutting circle?

5. I concur with your decision to change all the bearings. Unless they've been lubricated on a regular schedule, bearings will begin to fail after 20 years in even a clean environment. And a good feeling old bearing may be only minutes away from failure. Stay with a well known brand name, too--don't use no-name Chinese bearings. You never know what you're going to get.

Kirk

<blockquote data-quote="kirkpoore1" data-source="post: 739148" data-attributes="member: 8685">ND:Excellent writeup.&nbsp; I like the color too.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />&nbsp; I have a few questions and comments.1.&nbsp; Although it worked for you, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil and doesn&#039;t do all that good a job of loosening up rusted parts.&nbsp; Someone doing a full restoration like this should get a spray can of penetrating oil (probably found at an auto parts store), or roll their own by mixing up a 50/50 batch of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.&nbsp; Don&#039;t make much--a little will go a long way.2.&nbsp; I use a folding engine hoist to remove heavy parts like cast iron tables and large motors.&nbsp; It keeps my friends from avoiding my phone calls.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />3.&nbsp; Does this machine have a pressure bar between the cutterhead and the outfeed roller?&nbsp; It doesn&#039;t look like it, but I might be missing it.4.&nbsp; Upon reassembly, did you adjust the tables so they were parallel to the head?&nbsp; What about adjusting the feed rolls so they were at the same distance below the cutting circle?5.&nbsp; I concur with your decision to change all the bearings.&nbsp; Unless they&#039;ve been lubricated on a regular schedule, bearings will begin to fail after 20 years in even a clean environment.&nbsp; And a good feeling old bearing may be only minutes away from failure.&nbsp; Stay with a well known brand name, too--don&#039;t use no-name Chinese bearings.&nbsp; You never know what you&#039;re going to get.Kirk</blockquote>

[QUOTE="kirkpoore1, post: 739148, member: 8685"] ND: Excellent writeup. I like the color too.:) I have a few questions and comments. 1. Although it worked for you, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil and doesn't do all that good a job of loosening up rusted parts. Someone doing a full restoration like this should get a spray can of penetrating oil (probably found at an auto parts store), or roll their own by mixing up a 50/50 batch of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Don't make much--a little will go a long way. 2. I use a folding engine hoist to remove heavy parts like cast iron tables and large motors. It keeps my friends from avoiding my phone calls.:) 3. Does this machine have a pressure bar between the cutterhead and the outfeed roller? It doesn't look like it, but I might be missing it. 4. Upon reassembly, did you adjust the tables so they were parallel to the head? What about adjusting the feed rolls so they were at the same distance below the cutting circle? 5. I concur with your decision to change all the bearings. Unless they've been lubricated on a regular schedule, bearings will begin to fail after 20 years in even a clean environment. And a good feeling old bearing may be only minutes away from failure. Stay with a well known brand name, too--don't use no-name Chinese bearings. You never know what you're going to get. Kirk [/QUOTE]

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