Sedgewick Morticer question.....

[marksupnorth]

Hi guys. Bought myself an old(ish) morticer and am trying to learn how to use it without the benefit of a manual. Very proud of my first couple of mortices but have come to a grinding halt when trying to put a mortice in the centre of a workpiece (see picture). Please could someone tell me how to adjust the machine so that the lever doesn't foul up on the projecting work-piece? Many thanks in anticipation....

 

[Doug71]

The lever/handle can normally be rotated round the shaft that comes out of the side of the machine so it is in a more suitable position.

If mortising thin pieces I often put a packer underneath to lift it up a bit.

Worst case you can normally lower the head by loosening a few bolts or even buy long series chisels but sure it won't come to that!

 

[deema]

It’s the worst part of the design. If you open the cover to access the Chuck, you will find a big nut. You shaken this off, adjust the height of the head and retighten. Be careful, as when you slacken the nut the whole head can come crashing straight down unless you’ve a tight hold on it, or bright it down to rest the chuck on something. This is what I do, and then raise the handle up and tighten the nut.

 

[marksupnorth]

Excellent - thank-you so much, deema.

 

[TheTiddles]

One trick to get a mortice dead centre is to cut it from both sides
Aidan

 

[marksupnorth]

The lever/handle can normally be rotated round the shaft that comes out of the side of the machine so it is in a more suitable position.

If mortising thin pieces I often put a packer underneath to lift it up a bit.

Worst case you can normally lower the head by loosening a few bolts or even buy long series chisels but sure it won't come to that!

Thanks, Doug. I had a look at the base of the lever and there seems to be a split pin and what looks like it might be an Allen screw (see photo). I didn't want to bugger up the paintwork to free a screw that didn't help in the end. I think I will give it a go based on your info and see what the Allan screw does.
(Even with a packer I couldn't get enough depth to get half way through my workpiece, btw. )
Cheers.

 

[Doug71]

Thanks, Doug. I had a look at the base of the lever and there seems to be a split pin and what looks like it might be an Allen screw (see photo). I didn't want to pipper up the paintwork to free a screw that didn't help in the end. I think I will give it a go based on your info and see what the Allan screw does.
(Even with a packer I couldn't get enough depth to get half way through my workpiece, btw. )
Cheers.

You will probably have to go with what Deema said, I don't have that actual model and he always knows what he is talking about.

Don't know if this helps.

https://www.targetmanufacturing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Sedgwick-571-Mortiser-Manual-Parts-List.pdf

 

[deema]

Thanks Doug, I’m now blushing!
The handle on the Sedgwick doesn’t come off to allow the head to be repositioned. It’s a taper pin if you do want to bash it out for any reason.
Just for reference, the grease nipples located on top of the machine and by the handle are not for grease!! You apply oil, any old oil will do.

 

[johnnyb]

I second deema on mine the head moves up and down on a tee nut. heed deemas suggestion as it comes down with a ominous crash. one of them "I've undone the bolts whys it not....crash?¥!€

 

[johnnyb]

oddly mine goes out of whack using big long chisels.

 

[Limey Lurker]

I've got a recollection of our old Chippie holding the handle down as far as it would go, then putting scraps under the chisel to support it when the head bolt was slackened, then raising the handle until the head was at the correct height, then tightening the head bolt, so that when the handle was fully up the workpiece would just go under the chisel.

 

[Doug71]

I was surprised you can't adjust the handle on the Sedgwick like you can on others but thinking about it I can't remember the last time I had to move the handle on my old Robinson so maybe Sedgwick think it's better to just go for a solid fixing.

 

[Terrytpot]

...or,loosen the vice a bit and slide your stock further to the left for that last mortice as you seem to be quite a bit off the centre of the vices capacity...it looks like your handle is catching on 5"-6" of your stock but you have at least 8"-10" of vice to the left of the cut that could be level with the cut giving your handle room to complete a full depth cut without interference..a pain admitted as one would expect the design to easily accommodate stock protruding from the vice.

 

[LBCarpentry]

I have this exact Morticer and as Deema says - loosen the big nut.

Deema! Regarding the oil - is there an oil can attachment that fits to the grease nipples? Can you forward a link to one? Ive been greasing mine for years and always thought is was a bit crap. Makes sense if its oil

Louis

 

[deema]

I haven’t come across an oil can for grease nipples, I use a grease gun loaded with oil.
I find it amazing how many machines have grease nipples that actually require oil. They are usually packed with solidified grease which has actually caused wear

 

[ScottandSargeant]

Hi guys. Bought myself an old(ish) morticer and am trying to learn how to use it without the benefit of a manual. Very proud of my first couple of mortices but have come to a grinding halt when trying to put a mortice in the centre of a workpiece (see picture). Please could someone tell me how to adjust the machine so that the lever doesn't foul up on the projecting work-piece? Many thanks in anticipation....View attachment 103055

here is a copy of the manual - older ones might have a collet system.

 

[Chippymint]

It’s the worst part of the design. If you open the cover to access the Chuck, you will find a big nut. You shaken this off, adjust the height of the head and retighten. Be careful, as when you slacken the nut the whole head can come crashing straight down unless you’ve a tight hold on it, or bright it down to rest the chuck on something. This is what I do, and then raise the handle up and tighten the nut.

I second this advice as I've got one too. It's the same for all these Sedgwick models. You should not have to alter the factory set arm position - its designed to do what Deema says.

 

[marksupnorth]

Many thanks, guys. That's all sorted.
Interestingly, I have now found that the bit that came with my morticer doesn't seem to fit the chuck properly. Neither does the new Japanese one that I have just received (see photo). In both cases, the shank doesn't seem to go up far enough into the chuck (see photo). I presume that this just means I need to cut the shanks down to a more appropriate length? If so, does the nature of the steel mean that it is not the sort of thing you can just do with a hacksaw and I will need to take them to my local, friendly engineering workshop?

 

[marksupnorth]

here is a copy of the manual - older ones might have a collet system.

Many thanks for that manual. Really helpful.