For him having a cordless will also save having to lug a 110 volt transformer around so more reason to go cordless plus the customers end up buying his batteries for him.
SDS drills and drill bits... and chisels
- Thread starter WoodYewToo
- Start date
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I saw the interesting observation that rotation stop chiselling is hard on sds drills because it tends to be constant and prolonged labour compared to drill a hole, rest while you reposition, drill another hole, and usually only a few holes, couple of dozen maybe, being drilled.
For serious masonry work SDS is a game changer vs the hammer action on old drills or modern cordless combis.
Mine is Bosch blue corded. The £150 ish class. Nice and has swappable SDS and jacobs chucks so I only need to store one corded drill, not 2.
I like the newer designs that puts the motor near vertical to shorten the tool. That is a great feature that I would want if I was buying again.
The length of my drill with a big bit was a real constraint when drilling a wall understairs.
I couldn't drill as high up the wall as I would have liked because the stair limited me from behind.
I couln't use this pair up a ladder either without much faff and a standoff.
Interesting: this marcrist 28mm dry diamond core drill is impact rated. Many diamond cores aren't. On the one occasion I hit something hard within the wall and progress stopped in conventional drilling, turning on the impact blasted the core through the wall in maybe 10 seconds.
For serious masonry work SDS is a game changer vs the hammer action on old drills or modern cordless combis.
Mine is Bosch blue corded. The £150 ish class. Nice and has swappable SDS and jacobs chucks so I only need to store one corded drill, not 2.
I like the newer designs that puts the motor near vertical to shorten the tool. That is a great feature that I would want if I was buying again.
The length of my drill with a big bit was a real constraint when drilling a wall understairs.
I couldn't drill as high up the wall as I would have liked because the stair limited me from behind.
I couln't use this pair up a ladder either without much faff and a standoff.
Interesting: this marcrist 28mm dry diamond core drill is impact rated. Many diamond cores aren't. On the one occasion I hit something hard within the wall and progress stopped in conventional drilling, turning on the impact blasted the core through the wall in maybe 10 seconds.
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My very old Hilti has the motor vertical to keep the tool more compact and it is thirty years old, my smaller SDS drill is the same as your Bosch but the newer Bosch, the GBH 3-28 DFR has gone down the vertical motor route which shows that Hilti were ahead of the game once.
Homeless Squirrel
Established Member
Makita HR2450 etc(they have a few versions similar)Are great the later 2451? has a drop out chuck so can drill more precise than an SDS to Jacobs "Wobbly"
There 2KG size which is a pretty useful size as the 4KG type are more like a breaker and chunky but not too unwieldy as ie used for various things.
The HR2450 being a Trade/pro/Commercial tool like the Blue Bosch has a long cable unlike DIY which have a mouse tail!
SDS needs power and you need Joules for Impacts and as been said rotor stop is very hard on the machine's internals which is a small piece in top end(like the the piston/ram on a stream train) so remember to clean ends of drill bits etc and put some heavy grease inside opening reg as dust n grit add grease = grinding paste!.
Much depends on where and what your going to use for? and how much/often? ie If mostly drill holes in walls odd bit of chiselling and coring esp at DIY rate of work the 2KG size is perfect and if need to say break up hard concrete/Chisel channels etc just hire a SDS Max machine cheap enough but give 2KG a try first.
The reason i say that is was chatting to a guy on a job about SDS etc and it boiled down to A 2KG machine is light and easy up ladders etc compared to 4KG plus as he was removing Rendering but at end of job the 2KG is dustbin fodder well mostly had it once they'd done job(Why looking at used always check and be mindful of condition and machine)
Ive one here it's a lower Makita model you changed rotation via a slide switch at rear of drill on one side to see if could repair! "Power Cable looks ok though" Clutch is toast. and unless you know which parts to replace as some parts are expensive it's beyond fixing.
SDS+ is what you will find it fits all apart from the SDS Max which has a much thicker shaft on bits. Bosch own the SDS Patent they invented it.
With a SDS like the HR2450 you can turn up say to install a door frame you can do it all with the one machine with the add on bits like a Jacobs chuck which you get an SDS adaptor for and an SDS adaptor to put Hex bits into.
so you can drill through frame with SDS into brickwork then put hex adaptor in either drill with flat bits etc etc if needed? then put screwdriver/Torqs etc in to fasten it all in.
Cordless is ok always try to go Brushless "well they say uses less battery?" but the specs say gives more power.
Go with the best one you can afford as notice many are held in plastic rather than metal on gearing etc!
Yes 36volt will give more humph but also will a higher Amp battery ie 6 over 3ah as more current drive.
If de'tilling say Bathroom go with the wide Chisel bit! or you'll need up next door! But the other Gadget for shifting tiles is a Multi tool likes of a Fein with their De tilling bits will do the job plus you have a great Multi tool for doing everything else like Blind cutting slots/skirting boards/flooring and shed loads more!.
SDS bits are for most parts all the same made there then shipped to companies to sell as their own kits and many come from Switzerland where most Bosch bits come from like Jigsaw blades.
Then only part on an SDS bit that does the work is the two tip parts and any are good enough to do the job more or less and not expensive plus all get chewed up in the end.
But like with most things it's how you use/look after things that determine life expectancy ie drilling into Hard stuff like flint some water in hole can help but oddly it can be the softer stuff that causes more heat.
There 2KG size which is a pretty useful size as the 4KG type are more like a breaker and chunky but not too unwieldy as ie used for various things.
The HR2450 being a Trade/pro/Commercial tool like the Blue Bosch has a long cable unlike DIY which have a mouse tail!
SDS needs power and you need Joules for Impacts and as been said rotor stop is very hard on the machine's internals which is a small piece in top end(like the the piston/ram on a stream train) so remember to clean ends of drill bits etc and put some heavy grease inside opening reg as dust n grit add grease = grinding paste!.
Much depends on where and what your going to use for? and how much/often? ie If mostly drill holes in walls odd bit of chiselling and coring esp at DIY rate of work the 2KG size is perfect and if need to say break up hard concrete/Chisel channels etc just hire a SDS Max machine cheap enough but give 2KG a try first.
The reason i say that is was chatting to a guy on a job about SDS etc and it boiled down to A 2KG machine is light and easy up ladders etc compared to 4KG plus as he was removing Rendering but at end of job the 2KG is dustbin fodder well mostly had it once they'd done job(Why looking at used always check and be mindful of condition and machine)
Ive one here it's a lower Makita model you changed rotation via a slide switch at rear of drill on one side to see if could repair! "Power Cable looks ok though" Clutch is toast. and unless you know which parts to replace as some parts are expensive it's beyond fixing.
SDS+ is what you will find it fits all apart from the SDS Max which has a much thicker shaft on bits. Bosch own the SDS Patent they invented it.
With a SDS like the HR2450 you can turn up say to install a door frame you can do it all with the one machine with the add on bits like a Jacobs chuck which you get an SDS adaptor for and an SDS adaptor to put Hex bits into.
so you can drill through frame with SDS into brickwork then put hex adaptor in either drill with flat bits etc etc if needed? then put screwdriver/Torqs etc in to fasten it all in.
Cordless is ok always try to go Brushless "well they say uses less battery?" but the specs say gives more power.
Go with the best one you can afford as notice many are held in plastic rather than metal on gearing etc!
Yes 36volt will give more humph but also will a higher Amp battery ie 6 over 3ah as more current drive.
If de'tilling say Bathroom go with the wide Chisel bit! or you'll need up next door! But the other Gadget for shifting tiles is a Multi tool likes of a Fein with their De tilling bits will do the job plus you have a great Multi tool for doing everything else like Blind cutting slots/skirting boards/flooring and shed loads more!.
SDS bits are for most parts all the same made there then shipped to companies to sell as their own kits and many come from Switzerland where most Bosch bits come from like Jigsaw blades.
Then only part on an SDS bit that does the work is the two tip parts and any are good enough to do the job more or less and not expensive plus all get chewed up in the end.
But like with most things it's how you use/look after things that determine life expectancy ie drilling into Hard stuff like flint some water in hole can help but oddly it can be the softer stuff that causes more heat.
