Scrolling newbie could do with some help

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machine medic

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hello all
I'm new to the idea of scrolling but thought it might be a nice past time but as money is really tight i thought I'd take a risk and buy a secondhand saw off eBay. I picked it up today not knowing a thing about it for next to no money with the mind set of it will be broke and i can repair it. I am an electrician by trade with good mechanical background so i thought it shouldn't be a problem. But and this is my first problem there is no identification on the saw apart from the motor plate if anybody could give me an idea of what i have and the type and length of blade it would be much appreciated, and then i can see if i can get it up and running and ultimately get good enough to build my daughter her first doll house
 

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A very warm welcome MachineMedic to the forum,I am sorry that I can't help at the moment.I am sure that someone will have the answer soon :roll: Hopefully I will be able to help in the future :roll: .



Bryan
 
Yep, CSS18, also sold by Nutool, and probably others. No longer made, but looks like it was a nice hefty saw, let down (for pierced work) by the fact that it will only take pinned blades. I reckon it could easily be adapted to take plain blades by using the Axminster blade clamps, although, to make a dolls house, pinned blades would probably do. I've had a search for a manual but can't find anything.
 
Perhaps I am being thick here, but are scrollsaw blades not a standard length? In a one size fits all kind of stylee? :?:
 
bodge":3u4hg2vv said:
Perhaps I am being thick here, but are scrollsaw blades not a standard length? In a one size fits all kind of stylee? :?:

Fretsaw blades are 5" long and standard but what folks are saying is that some saws do not take standard fretsaw blades without modification. A lot of cheaper saws such as the Clarke (also sold under many different brand names) only take pinned blades which are like coping saw blades only shorter. Most saws can be adapted to take 'normal' fretsaw blades either by obtaining blade clamps sold as an optional extra or by making some of your own up with bits from your odds and sod box!

Pinned blades are ok for general cutting but for doing intricate fretwork or internal (pierced cuts) you really need standard fretsaw blades.
 
As others have said this a Clarke machine made in Taiwan and was originally sold under many brand names.
I own a Sealey and a Nutool version of the same saw and think that it is an ideal well made saw for the hobby scroller but will need some setting up to get it to perform well.
When new this saw would have come with 2 blade clamps to enable the use of both pinned and standard blades the front right hand corner of the table in your picture has a chuck fitted that the blade clamps fit into to hold the clamps while you undo the hex screws.
It looks as if you have some parts missing and it is not possible to buy spares but it should be easy enough to make the parts you need such as the table insert that fits into the hole around the blade.
I rebuilt my Nutool one see this thread:-

the-15-scroll-saw-t76846.html
 
Thank you all for the help, I've managed to find a supplier for the pinned blades so now I'm going to try to find a way to get plain blades to fit as martinka said I'll have a look at the Axminster blade clamps. Powertools do you know which bits i am missing so i can try to source or adapt something to fit,for the the table insert I should be able to turn something to fit
 
powertools":38tgj8p9 said:
the front right hand corner of the table in your picture has a chuck fitted that the blade clamps fit into to hold the clamps while you undo the hex screws.

I completely missed that, PT. Did they all have the chuck, or was it only on certain brand names?
 
I have got problems with my computer that has got all my pictures on but from what I can see from your bottom image apart from the insert that would be easy to make there should be a hardened steel spring clamp bolted to the arms and yours is not there on the top arm but I can't see if you have one on the bottom arm. If you look at the image of my Sealey saw on the £15 thread you will be able to see this.
I think without these using pinned or standard blades will damage the aluminium arms as the clamps or pins will wear into the arms. I converted both my saws by adding the Axminster clamps on the top arms of both saws but retained the steel clip on the bottom arms of both saws and the clamps for standard blades sit in them.
If you don't have blade clamps for pinless blades I think the Hegner ones will fit but I haven't tried them myself.
There is a thread on here about converting this type of saw to take the Axminster clamps that has more pictures of what I did you would need to do a forum search to find it I only fitted the Axi clamp to the top arm on mine to make internal cuts easier and left the lower arm still with the clamp that I think you may not have.
I hope all of that makes some sense it's been a long day I will help in any way I can if you need more advice, in my opinion these saws are well made and with some work you will end up with a saw that is a pleasure to use.
 
Thank you my cheap saw looks like it may cost some to get it back on
form but I won't be beaten looks like the odds and sods box will be out
 
It won't cost much money but it will take a bit of your time but at the end you will have a good saw that you fully understand and you will enjoy using.
 
martinka":2oqd6dx2 said:
powertools":2oqd6dx2 said:
the front right hand corner of the table in your picture has a chuck fitted that the blade clamps fit into to hold the clamps while you undo the hex screws.

I completely missed that, PT. Did they all have the chuck, or was it only on certain brand names?

I don't know but both mine have.
 

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