Screwfix spokeshave

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I think you are making this up, :shock: if it were true you would of posted pictures of a nice smooth curve and the shavings produced making it. :roll: :wink:
 
Dave,

I have not used it yet.
The blade will need a fettle

All I'm saying is compared to my 151 ???
Its looks & feels superior and a straight edge says the flat bits are flat

The thing might turn out to be made of toffee but I've still got the brass fittings I was after in the first place ( I have a homemade wood/metal block plane in mind)
 
Hi, Lurker

If you had told me when you came round I woild have let you have a 151 clone that has no blade and cap but everything else, but then you would have had to pay the postage :wink:

I bought 4 spokeshaves from Ebay just to get a Preston round base shave that had the adjuster stud broken off, I manages to drill and retap it to M6 and turn some brass bar on my wood lathe to make a new adjuster, just waiting for a blade from Ray Iles.


Pete
 
I did the same – I’m rather fond of spokeshaves – and I was amazed how good this was. I had to flatten the sole but this was quick because it is small and you can get lots of pressure on via the handles.
I found it works better than the modern Stanley or record and the blade isn’t even that bad. Since it is the same as a 151 there is always the option of replacing it with a Hock or Finck but something in me says that is a bit ridiculously expensive for a tool that cost so little…
Jon.
 
Hi,

Wait till you try a wooden spokeshave they are fantastic. Tip if you get one with a loose blade drill and tap for a couple of grub screws to lock the blade.

Pete
 
I agree Pete, a well set-up wooden spokeshave is a great joy to use and in some ways a lot more intuitive to use than even the best metal spokeshaves. The shape of the chair arm, cabriole leg etc seems to appear as though transferred directly from your mind’s eye. Well, it works for me anyway.
I had high hopes of the LV low angle spokeshave when it came out. It is clever and it does work well but is somehow still cold and clumsy compared to an old wooden ‘shave.
Good tip with the loose prongs, the other thing that makes them work better is a wear plate ahead of the blade - which gets shorter the more it is sharpened, opening the mouth. Many of those you find knocking about have already had this done of course. Blades in need of serious rectification can be worked with a B&D Powerfile. Same thing for drawknives that can be transformed by lowering the bevel angle to 15º - 20º. The two tools are quite closely related of course.
Jon.
 

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