Screw Extractors

[scooby]

The other day I was fitting a door at my parents house. My dad had got a pair of butt hinges wth a brushed steel finish. Quite nice actually, until I saw the screws for them. Just looking at them I knew they would strip easily. So was being careful but had to adjust the top slightly as the frame was slightly twisted. Cue, a screw with a completely stripped head.

The annoying thing was, the pozi indent was soft as **** but the screw was rock hard. So hard I couldn't drill it out :shock: I did manage to get 1 of my twist bits glowing a seriously bright red colour trying though! I managed to sort it eventually but I'm sure if I'd had some screw extractors it could have been solved much easier.

I'm ordering some stuff from D&M next week so thought I'd get these

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... ISBOAGBSET

These look good as you don't need to drill a pilot hole in the screw (which was my main problem explained above). extraction method shown here

http://www.boa-uk.com/boa_grabit.html

In theory they sound great, but has anyone tried them?

Thanks

 

[andys wood shed]

Hi Scooby
Yes I have that set of screw extractors and found them very successful.
Also works in slotted screws.

Regards

Andy

 

[wrightclan]

I haven't used those, but I've used something called 'Screw Doctor' to remove screws with stripped heads. I had some large screws to remove that I thought for sure would require screw extractors and happened upon 'Screw Doctor.' Put some on the driver bit, and the screws came right out. It really is amazing stuff. It's a grey paste that you put onto your driver bits, and gives them amazing grip. I use it all the time, really helps keep from stripping heads in the first place.

Unfortunately, I can't remember for sure where I bought it. I think it was Maplin, but can't find it on their site, or anywhere else on the web. Anyone else know where to get it? Fortunately a little goes a long way, and my current tube should last me a couple years at least.

Brad

 

[Anonymous]

As a matter of course, whenever using fittings supplied with screws, the first thing I do is chuck the screws in the bin and reach for my own. The screws supplied with hardware are always crap.

I buy all my screws from Winzer Wurth - they are pricey but the cost is outweighed many times over by the lack of hassle and time spent sorting out useless screws. Reisser screws are of a similar quality and more readily available.

I will start a new thread shortly on Wurth's new AW screws - they have revolutionised the way we work in our shop.

Cheers
Brad

 

[Roger]

Excellent set of removers here also - based on the original Craftsman:

Removers

 

[Scrit]

I buy all my screws from Winzer Wurth - they are pricey but the cost is outweighed many times over by the lack of hassle and time spent sorting out useless screws. Reisser screws are of a similar quality and more readily available.

Isn't it always the case, though? We spend loads of time and money to build something then "spoil the ship for a happorth of tar" by using cheap screws. Personally I'm using increasing quantities of Spaxes, especially as they're now stocked by Screwfix, Selco and even (although expensively) B & Q. I've found since starting to make the switch that I'm experiencing far fewer problems with sheared screws - and none with the Spaxes. The only problem is the 20,000 odd screws in a zillion sizes I have on the shelf.....

I carry a set of Trend X-Outs (see here and scroll down) these for those odd occasions when a problem occurs. They seem to work OK

Scrit

 

[Colin C]

I ave never used the removers but I do have to removers for when the head of the screw snaps off ( see it in on old WW mag ).

They are steel rods with the middle drilled out, one is 1/4 on the out side and one is 3/8 with teeth filed on the end ( I will post some pic's if anyone wants ).

I have used them a lot and they are great for getting broken screws out of tops without going through , then you can plug the hole with a wooden plug ( I have a set of the long plug cutters ).

 

[Paul Chapman]

They are steel rods with the middle drilled out, one is 1/4 on the out side and one is 3/8 with teeth filed on the end ( I will post some pic's if anyone wants ).

I'd be interested to see some pictures of them, Colin.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Russell]

I use the Trends x-out only failed once on one screw because the head snapped away

 

[Nick W]

For screws with snapped off heads find a rolled steel pin whose ID is just larger than the shank of the screw, file the end as shown here

Chuck in a drill, select reverse, place the pin over the screw and drill away. The screw usually comes out before you have drilled to its full depth.

 

[scooby]

They are steel rods with the middle drilled out, one is 1/4 on the out side and one is 3/8 with teeth filed on the end ( I will post some pic's if anyone wants ).

I'd be interested to see some pictures of them, Colin.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Think these are the same/similar thing Colin was describing, work in the same as Nick W's method (which I'd guess would be cheaper )

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DKWSE2

 

[Colin C]

Thats the ones scooby
I had two made for me and people where I use to work, I have used them a lot and are great.
Have used them on old tops when the screws have broken and have never gone through a top

 

[johnjin]

Thanks very much to Colin C & Nick W.
I think that is a brilliant tip.
I can't wait now for a screw to snap so that I can try it out.
Thanks again
All the best and a Happy New Year to all on this forum.

John

 

[engineer one]

the old engineers trick is to flatten the head where it has broken, and then file or cut a slot across .

i must say that i find spax or reisers the way to go,
but if its late on a saturday, and you have no extractors,
try the following:

use a dentist burr or similar in a small drill to flatten off the top, then drill down into the screw, and then ram a pointed piece of round steel into it, and then use the reverse in your cordless and SLOWLY go backwards as you ram the point down. doesn't always work, but late at night etc it might well be the way to go.

obviously in metal you can often heat up the metal surrounding the bolt/screw and then use pliers to snap it into work. however generally in wood the screw breaks just below the surface. in which case a slot and then a chisel pushing it backwards could also help.

new kind of bodgers' tips :twisted: not just for green wood.

paul :wink: