Lazurus
Established Member
Can someone recommend me a set of screw extractors that actually work. I have tried a couple of sets with zero success. Additionally is there a knack to using them as I am not above user error causing the failures.
Screw extractors that actually work
- Thread starter Lazurus
- Start date
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A photo of the problem would probably give better answers.
A guy at work had a broken cylinder head bolt and he managed to weld a stud to it which worked. He was dousing it with release spray for quite a long time as well.
Some times a hard whack with a hammer on the end of the screw helps as it shock's the threads and can release them a bit.
This is also an interesting video: Best screw extractor test.
A guy at work had a broken cylinder head bolt and he managed to weld a stud to it which worked. He was dousing it with release spray for quite a long time as well.
Some times a hard whack with a hammer on the end of the screw helps as it shock's the threads and can release them a bit.
This is also an interesting video: Best screw extractor test.
Well I’ve used this type mainly for years with mostly good results. My preference is to use a centre punch if possible and use the smallest drill bit 1st and then increase the drill in stages to the biggest you can get away with . Use the extractor in a tap holder ( tap/ dye set ) results will depend on the screw or bolt size , length and of course the material it’s in . I always use a lubricant in steel and drill the pilot holes as deep as possible.
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A good idea as it will probably help reduce some of the stress.
Lazurus
Established Member
My useag is generally getting wood or masonry screws out where they have rounded out. I have had no success in getting the threaded part to bite into the pilot hole, I am wondering if they are just made of chinesium which is softer that the screws themselves.
Tbh there are loads of these sets on the usual sites but I’d go with a quality set . The ones in the picture are snap on but I have a old dormer set somewhere. The key imo is the 1st pilot hole and then moving onto the second etc . Only go bigger if it’s a decent size screw. I used to remove the small bleed screw from radiators that had either seized or broken off without too much difficulty. Try to drill the screw pilot hole parallel to the angle of the screw and if you know how long the screw is you can drill to a decent depth , the extractor works by turning anti clockwise and applying downward pressure until it bites into the screw. Hardened screws are probably the worst but just get that pilot hole as deep as possible . Use oil or cutting paste if necessary.
powertools
Established Member
There is no way that a set of extractors like that would be of any use for wood screws.
I disagree sorry ,, I’ve removed tiny brass air bleed pins from radiators and steel wood screws from wood. I’ve even removed a 5” nail from a door frame that was behind the hinge ( it did of course wreck the extractor) as I had to pull on it with a set of mole grips but I pulled it out enough to get the claw hammer on it . I also have several other sets for hardened steel screws. It’s all down to how determined you are and not always about what you use .
What you don't want is an extractor that is tapered so it exerts an outward force that can tighten the fastener in it's threaded hole, one of the best methods I have seen to remove broken fasteners from metal is spark errosion.
I have a Dormer set, 1-5. I snapped the No. 2 extractor because I didn't have it inserted deep enough as @Bingy man suggests. They do work,
For rapid removal of old rusted screws in wood I use a plug cutter. I an currently replacing woodwork on the roof. It was fixed with dozens of nails and screws. The plug cutter was great. I'm not re-using the wood.
For rapid removal of old rusted screws in wood I use a plug cutter. I an currently replacing woodwork on the roof. It was fixed with dozens of nails and screws. The plug cutter was great. I'm not re-using the wood.
If you're talking woodscrews, theres not a good foolproof method other than plug cutters so far as I'm aware. For threaded holes the best I've used is a left hand drill bit. If you're lucky it snags and unthreads it, if not its drilled out far enough to pick the threads out (assuming you got it on centre in the first place.)
TomTheToolMan
Established Member
I start the extractor holes with a reverse drill bit. Often the combination of heat and friction takes the screw out without the need for an extractor
Johnwa
Established Member
For sheared off pins or bolts, file the surface flat, find and punch the CENTRE, then drill out using increasing drill sizes up to tapping size, then gently tap out the bolt using all 3 taps, the bits of bolt or pin just break out. Worked for me for years.
Stevekane
Established Member
A mate had to have an “easy out” screw extractor spark erroded out after it snapped whilst trying to remove broken stud in an air cooled VW head,,the spark people took out the broken stud too but it was so long ago I cannot recall what we had to do with it then,,I would guess it required a hellicoil?
You need to be careful with extractors, by there very nature they are all going to be very tough and of course quite brittle.
Steve.
mmmppphhh - come on, we should be recommending the best possible 
I once sent my wife a picture of the Amazon Chinese 5 screw extractor set I had bought (for about £7.99)
She replied with a photo similar to this though her kit is colour coded and about 4 times the size!
oh and in the thousands for the kit!
I once sent my wife a picture of the Amazon Chinese 5 screw extractor set I had bought (for about £7.99)
She replied with a photo similar to this though her kit is colour coded and about 4 times the size!
oh and in the thousands for the kit!
hawkeyefxr
Established Member
I personally would never as Easy Out, as Spectric says left hand thread and tapered it will just wind in and jam things up.
As others have said, for studs weld a nut on the end and fill to the top, let it cool down till warm to touch. In the welding process the stud get hot and transfers heat to the tapped hole expanding it slightly. This is especially true in aluminium.
I heard from and engineer that ATF and Cellulose thinners mixed 50/50 is very good, obviously use this before welding.
One other easy out type of tool that i only found out the other day is a tapered square about 4in long, the corners of the square have like a sharp blade all along it's length. The advantage is that it's not trying to expand and jam things up, it just bites and twists. These are used in broken spark plugs from cylinder heads but may work elswhere.
As someone else mentioned drill a small hole in the stud/bolt but make sure you can drill through the the bottom, that way when you use a penetrating mix it will get to the top and bottom of the thread.
As others have said, for studs weld a nut on the end and fill to the top, let it cool down till warm to touch. In the welding process the stud get hot and transfers heat to the tapped hole expanding it slightly. This is especially true in aluminium.
I heard from and engineer that ATF and Cellulose thinners mixed 50/50 is very good, obviously use this before welding.
One other easy out type of tool that i only found out the other day is a tapered square about 4in long, the corners of the square have like a sharp blade all along it's length. The advantage is that it's not trying to expand and jam things up, it just bites and twists. These are used in broken spark plugs from cylinder heads but may work elswhere.
As someone else mentioned drill a small hole in the stud/bolt but make sure you can drill through the the bottom, that way when you use a penetrating mix it will get to the top and bottom of the thread.
bp122
Expert at Jibber-Jabber
That's very clever. I need to get a plug cutter at some point!
I have lost a few 1 or 2mm drill bit tips in projects
unable to recover.
Anyone remember the old Triumph 1850 Dolomite with those wonderful inclined studs that had to be removed in order to get the cylinder head off, yes they did put slots in the end and the good old haynes manual showed them just being unscrewed but for most this was not reality?
Another good tool for removing studs that have enough shank left is the socket with rollers where it grips the stud tighter as you apply more force, you need one for each size of stud and so can be expensive for decent ones.
Another good tool for removing studs that have enough shank left is the socket with rollers where it grips the stud tighter as you apply more force, you need one for each size of stud and so can be expensive for decent ones.
