Scheppach TS4010 rip fence problem

[onetruecharlatan]

Hi, I've owned my TS4010, (along with both extension tables and 2m sliding carriage), for about 4 years or so now, but haven't used it for more than 60 minutes running time during that period.

Why? I hear you ask.

Well, firstly space, (the usual garage with limited space).
Secondly, time. Is there ever enough of the stuff?
Thirdly, the rip fence on mine is woeful to say the least.

When either of the locking clamps are engaged, the fence furthest from the operator moves at least 3mm toward the blade. It doesn't even sit square with the table edge. When I run the fence up to the edge of the table and align the nearest part of the fence with the corner of the table, the gap at the top, (rear), end is about 4 or 5mm.

This was delivered to me in what can only be described as "kit" form, with myself having to construct the rip fence and fit the side table, (never even taken the rear table and carriage out of their packaging), as well as some other small tasks as I recall before this could be described as a working tool.

I followed the setup instructions to the letter but it's always been like this. I can't make square cuts so most of its life to date has been spent in silence.

Mine is the aluminium top model. I have read in another thread that you can buy the cast top for this table and fit it as a direct replacement. Can anyone help me with the following questions please:

1. Is this as simple a task as replacing the ali and that's that, or is there some hidden work that needs to be done by a specialist?

2. Is it just the main table that can be changed to cast, or are there options for the 2 extension tables to be replaced as well?

3. Which reseller gives the best price for these cast tops currently?

4. Even if I changed the tops for cast, as the ali ones really aren't that great, I doubt this will improve the performance of the fence, so does anyone have any suggestions on how I might have gone wrong in setting the fence/saw up and what I might do to rectify the problem?

5. Is there an aftermarket fence that will fit this saw, (cast or ali top), that preferably uses rails on both sides of the table?

I really would like to start using this saw in ernest now. I made a bed when it was first purchased and the satisfation of creating something was immense. It's just a shame that it's since been silent.

Thanking you in advance,

otc.

 

[OLD]

A picture would help here but there must be a adjustment for this to set the blade to the table dado and the fence to the table check the instructions again .
Just found a picture of fence there are four fixings fence to slider loosen and realign fence to table dado/t slot.
If you say where your location is i am sure someone would have a look/fix it for you, if you have a local dealer they could do it. Thats an expensive saw to be idle.

 

[WellsWood]

Hi OTC, and welcome to the forum.

I have the TS2500, also with ally tables and have had no problems with the rip fence at all. It is extremely accurate and rock solid. I suspect it's not set up/assembled properly. You don't say which direction the movement is when you lock up the fence, lateral or vertical. If it's vertical have you omitted the steel spacer between the main slide (the bit with the clamping handle) and the steel box section of the fence where the 4 bolts connect the two pieces? Without this the fence would be unusable due to being drawn down onto the table when locking and would thus pivot on the front edge of the table.

For alignment, start by ensuring the guide tube is set exactly parallel with the front edge of the table as per the instructions. I did this by placing blocks of identical thickness between the tube and the table edge - 18mm mdf is just about perfect for this on mine. Then loosen the 4 allen headed cap bolts which connect the steel part of the fence assembly to the slider and with the lock engaged, align the fence exactly parallel to the blade (I do this by placing a straight edge against the body of the fully wound up blade, then locking the fence a nadge away from the straight edge and checking the gap at the front and rear using feeler gauges). Tighten the bolts and re-check, you may have to repeat as the assy sometimes moves a bit when tightening the bolts.
The fence does move a bit (laterally) during lockup, but you needn't worry as long as it's properly aligned when locked. Incidentally, you say "either" of the locking clamps, which implies you have the micro adjuster fitted. When performing the above alignment you should only use the main clamp since this is the one that does the work of holding it true and square.

I'm told by the importers that the CI table (main table only I'm afraid) is retro-fittable, I was quoted a price about a year ago of around £400. There is some dissent here about how much work is involved to fit, but I know on my 2500 the trunnions which hold the motor/arbour/blade assy are bolted to the underside of the table and not the frame, so it's not a simple matter of unbolting the table sections and dropping the new one on.
For confirmation I suggest you speak to the importers, NMA on 01484 400488. Their technical help is very good and their prices are unlikely to be beaten should you decide to go the upgrade route.

You don't say where you are, but if this hasn't helped as hoped, and you're local to me, I'll gladly pop round and have a look for you. Like OLD said, it's an expensive bit of kit to be going to waste.

Mark

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi OTC

Welcome to the forum.

There are a number of people on here with the same saw and I'm sure that someone will be along soon.

In the meantime you could always contact, the importers, NMA Agencies on 01484 400488.

Cheers
Neil

 

[RoyS]

I have the TS2500, ally version. I have had problems with lateral movement of the fence in the past but after spending an hour or two adjusting, checking, adjusting, checking (you get the picture), it has been OK ever since.

Hope you can get yours fixed as easily - Roy

 

[pewe]

The fence should be easy enought to adjust, but may take a bit of trial and error using the 'spacer' mentioned in a previous reply.

As far as the table top is concerned - it is simple enough to replace, There are six bolts holding the top to the chassis. The only other part fixed to the top is - the fence brackets :lol:

The cheapest place to buy is http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk/

I e-mailed them a couple of weeks ago and this is what 'Tony Bancroft' at the company e-mailed me

Cast iron table is 274.95 inc vat
Left hand insert for table is 31.75 inc vat
Right hand insert is 31.75 inc vat
Carriage 9.50 inc vat
Delivery approx 21 days

 

[onetruecharlatan]

Hi all,

Firstly, thank you all for the warm welcome to the forum. Secondly, your help with this fence problem is much appreciated. You can't imagine how frustrating it's been having what is essentially a great tool just sitting idle, and yes, it was expensive, especially when you look through the likes of Axminsters catalogue today and see what you could buy for similar money today

Anyway, I haven't had chance to get my hands on the saw yet, but have pencilled in this saturday to get to grips with it. I'll let you all know how I get on, (crosses fingers).

I didn't describe the fault too well on my first post, (it was rather err, late or early in the morning, depending on how you view things, when I posted), so I apologise for my error. I have the micro adjuster fitted and when the lock clamp is engaged, the fence pulls from right - left towards the blade. In hindsight, I think I set the fence up to be square before the clamp was engaged, so this is probably where the error has occurred.

Like I said, I'll keep you posted and thanks again for your support so far. Between us, my father and I have quite a setup and are in the process of reworking his garage into a full blown workshop, dedicated to all things wood working. I will probably call upon your guidance in the near future as I also have an old 10" planer/thicknesser, (unknown origin), and an old band saw that both need some TLC.

otc.

 

[Chris Knight]

OTC,
I have the TS 4010 and have retrofitted the CI top.

First, as you seem to have found out, you do need to check the fence for square after locking off. Almost any fence system is going to move a bit as you lock it in place and the TS 4010 is no exception. The adjustments should be made in order:-

1. Top (and mitre slots) parallel to blade
2. Fence rail parallel to front edge of table (hence square to blade)
3. Fence parallel to blade (checked after locking off and then making any necessary adjustments, using the four fixing bolts that fix the fence to the carriage)

Adjustments 1 and 2 are made during initial set-up and once set you shouldn't have to change them. A heavy knock might disturb adjustment 3 but normally this will also stay OK once set.

Removing the ally top is easy - as is installing the CI top (I wouldn't like to have to install an ally top though owing to the loose steel inserts that need to be lined up with the holes/bolts).

On my saw, I wasn't able to get the CI top perfectly lined up so that the mitre slots were parallel to the blade. I don't worry about is though as I use the sliding table and can correct for inaccuracies there. I do occasionally use a sled for some work and the lack of parallelism is a bit of a bore but I work round it. The problem is that the short slots in the framework of the saw that line up with the threaded holes in the CI top, do not permit enough wiggle room. A bit of judicious filing to enlarge them should make them fine but I was simply too lazy to undo everything and do the filing, once I discovered the problem.

 

[pewe]

I have the TS 4010 and have retrofitted the CI top.

Can I ask why you changed yout top?

 

[Chris Knight]

The previous ally top was not flat and I couldn't get it flat enough for my wishes.

The new CI top is flat and I am very happy with it. I wasn't so happy about the length of time it took me to clean it when I first got it. It was marking my hands and wood (I presume the offending black marks came fom graphite in the iron). I spent a few hours with a combination of white spirit and Webrax to get rid of the staining stuff then waxed it - it swallowed a lot of wax. It is OK now.

 

[Richard863]

Hi all
I also have a TS4010 with a table top problem. This one I have never been able to sort out since new, although I have set it up to be quite accurate.
Both mitre track slots do not run parallel to the saw blade (so I have never used this mitre as I haven't learnt the art off moving the timber laterally when moving the mitre along the track). The saw blade itself sits parallel to the edge of the table also in the centre and parallel to its slot. The rip fence bar is parallel to the trailing edge so the fence is parallel to the saw blade no problems here. The Pro sliding table is setup parallel to the left hand edge of the table and the saw blade so this is very accurate. So at the end of the day if I reset the table to so the mitre slot runs parallel to the saw blade every thing else will be out of true, so its easier not to use the small mitre assembly. If any one has a solution to this? Please pass on the info, it will be gratefully received.
The next problem was the retractable undercarriage what a pigs ear of a contraption in design and use this is, a sheer waste of money. If one has the folding side table the whole 4010 wants to fall over as its so out of balance also you can not raise or lower it, as the side table is in the way, so reverse it by putting on with the handle on the left, this makes the 4010 even more out of balance. I went to see the new Wheel assembly that is a optional extra for the 4020 also to see if the 4010 could be modified for use, this too left a lot to be desired. So I have removed this undercarriage and mounted the 4010 on a Axminster heavy duty machine base with the front wheels set in the widest position, this now makes the 4010 very stable and easy to move around the workshop.
If there is a home for the defunct undercarriage offer me a pack of beer pick it up and its yours.
Kind regards to all

 

[Woody Alan]

I had a 2500CI for a brief period of time. Enough time to know that I did not want to put up with it's idiosyncracies. Apart from the fact it's almost impossible to align the saw unit with the mitre slots due to the way the pressed metal carrier is designed i.e. with no real adjustment designed in to it.
I wasted endless time on that and trying to align the sliding table with the blade...then the realisation, there is so much flex in the saw unit because the rise and fall mechanism is offset to the side of the rise and fall "plates" depending on wheter you have just raised the blade or lowered it the leading edge of the blade drifts by over 1mm. To make this easy to see, raise the blade to almost full height and put a sheet of A4 paper alongside the blade, then tweakk the blade up and down 5mm.

I am sure all the happy owners don't have this problem, so don't try it if you're happy with your saw. Probably why they redesigned the saw unit mech a couple of years ago.

Alan