Saw blade thickness and safe handling

[Sorehorse]

As someone who has mostly used hand tools and a track saw, I have a few questions about my new table saw.
I mounted it on a 'proper' Dewalt stand to wheel it outdoors, and I'm glad I did, it's heavy and well built.

The top surface does might seem a little uneven though, and I yet have to tune the accuracy of the settings, or rather, I messed with it changing the blade.

I have a DWE7485 and would like to fit a finer toothed blade, the goal being to cut ply wood sheets into strips and parts for a hobby project.
It needs to be accurate with nice edges for gluing together into a frame.
I have an Etsy 3D printed insert to fit for fine work later, a feather board, and a dial gauge for set up on it's way.
I have some camper cabinets planed for later.
The max blade thickness on the saw is 2.4mm and the new blade I bought from Screwfix is a 2.2mm Erbauer 60t.

I am concerned about the discrepancy, apparently I may need to change the 'riving knife' which is a new word to me.
Does the blade need some sort of spacer?

I get that saws should be used with caution and be aware of the blade jamming, so I am asking about table saw use before I begin.
I bought a wood push stick.
The internets says I should also get a tourniquet kit.

Also of note, when I'm happy I am competent, I need to safely cut up full size ply sheets on my own outside.
I have a pair of Bosch roller stands, but I think I may need another pair to keep the work piece from dropping. If that's the right way to do it, that is...
How do the pro's do it?

 

[Bingy man]

1st comment I’ll make is your saw should be set up before use , the blade should be square to the mitre slot and also to the fence . All this is carried out with the saw disconnected from the mains . The relationship between the blade and the riving knife is important and while I’m not an expert on this subject-there are numerous safety threads on t/saw use ..! How high is the stand and is it designed for a mitre saw ? If you have a track saw then use it for breaking down full sheets of plywood to a manageable size and then use the t/saw . An 8’x4’ sheet of ply on a job site saw will likely end badly for you or a 2nd person to help you or both . Once your saw is set up correctly and everything is tight and secure you need to ensure that you are wearing appropriate clothing and you are familiar with the safe operation of the saw. My saw is similar to yours and it’s loud so you need to be aware of ghis . There is no place for kids , pets or other spectators when using your saw . The szme goes for alcohol, loud music , stress , smoking , tiredness etc etc etc . A decent 1st aid kit should be ok but only you can decide on tourniquet and bleed kits and so on. Personally I’ve still got all ten digits and I fully intend to remain that way . Will you be using it outside or inside as inside it will sound louder . A comprehensive safety regime is essential . If you still feel unsure then think about a safety course..stay safe ..

 

[Doug B]

I need to safely cut up full size ply sheets on my own outside.

I’d suggest you stick with your tracksaw trying to put a full sheet of plywood through a small saw like that is a recipe for disaster.
I regularly cut up full sheet material on my own & even though I have a bigger tablesaw than the DeWalt I still use the tracksaw it’s just so much easier & more accurate.
For cutting multiple pieces of the same size I made some parallel guides for my tracks though there are commercially available ones, they make for very quick accurate repeatable cuts.

 

[Jacob]

I’d suggest you stick with your tracksaw trying to put a full sheet of plywood through a small saw like that is a recipe for disaster.
I regularly cut up full sheet material on my own & even though I have a bigger tablesaw than the DeWalt I still use the tracksaw it’s just so much easier & more accurate.
For cutting multiple pieces of the same size I made some parallel guides for my tracks though there are commercially available ones, they make for very quick accurate repeatable cuts.

Agree. I could just about put an 8x4' over my combi machine with extra long sliding table plus extension, but it is not easy.
A much bigger panel saw is one answer if you've got the space, much simpler is Doug's track saw.
In fact I think it's time I bought one!

 

[Cabinetman]

The riving knife should be just a little thinner than the cut the saw blade makes, the measurement you quoted for the blade should be for the plate/disc of the blade not taking into account the width of the teeth— so probably will be just fine.
Ian

 

[Sorehorse]

The track saw I have is an Evolution R185. I got the longest tracks I could that connect together, long enough to cut full size sheets.
Apparently there are issues with accuracy on reviews.

I don't know that I have been doing it right.
Laying out sheet on plastic saw horses trying not to cut through, supporting the work piece and trim.
I could not quite get the blade at 90deg, may need a better square?

I would like to buy a good parallel guide if one could be recommended. Due to difficulties I have to get the best tool I can and get on with the job, I don't have the energy to make tools to make the tools. I will upgrade if I have to, the results are worth it.
I suspect the bearings are cheap being rattly.
What is a better track saw or track saw/parallel guide combo?

Sober is good for saws!
I use (power) saws outside.
Saw lives in house and gets wheeled out. Not ideal but available.
Stand is Dewalt branded wheeled stand, the legs fold down to support at about comfortable waist height.

Track saw as it is won't do below a certain width. I think I can manage a half sheet on the table saw with rollers. I have ear defenders and most usual stuff. Good Mechanix type gloves are standard for me.

I will mention fine model RR construction and see who's ears prick up

 

[Bingy man]

What i found when attempting something similar ( on my own) with roller stands was trying to keep enough pressure on it ( 8ft long x3ft wide ) was when the board started to move away from the fence and you automatically try to correct it is when you may well need a clean pair of boxers . If you have had a 8 x4 sheet cut in a diy centre like bnq the board is clamped into place and the saw head is pulled along the cut .small site saws imo are jyst not the right tool for large sheet goods . Even if you used 2 or 3 rollers and you make it to the end of the cut ( say the full 8ft the board can roll back into the back of the blade , it can then be lifted up by the blades teeth . I’d invest in a better track saw if you intend working with full sheets of plywood etc ..

 

[Inspector]

Good Mechanix type gloves are standard for me.

Gloves around saws are frowned upon. Reason. If for some reason you did something that wasn't safe and your glove got caught by a tooth or two you'll have your hand dragged into the blade with disastrous results. Without the glove you would be cut, still a very bad thing, but you wouldn't necessarily make it a lot worse by being pulled in. Even if you do have the guard and riving knife in place and use two push sticks to cut the wood, gloves are a very bad practice. Gloves around any machinery like saws, shapers/moulders, lathes drill presses, etc are not recommended.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Gloves around saws are frowned upon. Reason. If for some reason you did something that wasn't safe and your glove got caught by a tooth or two you'll have your hand dragged into the blade with disastrous results. Without the glove you would be cut, still a very bad thing, but you wouldn't necessarily make it a lot worse by being pulled in. Even if you do have the guard and riving knife in place and use two push sticks to cut the wood, gloves are a very bad practice. Gloves around any machinery like saws, shapers/moulders, lathes drill presses, etc are not recommended.

Pete

I've seen this written before but wonder if it's a bit of a myth?
I use a pair of rigger gloves where necessary, with bigger boards/timbers, as the improved grip gives much better control and surely must be a lot safer. Not much use for protection (except from splinters) but definitely good for better control.

 

[Bingy man]

Several years ago using my makita belt sander ( the very old and heavy one) part of my jumper sleeve got pulled into the roller - my hand was instantly and quickly pulled towards the sanders belt . Managed to stop the machine and no harm done . I’d say that the material the gloves are made from make a difference- my class 1 chainsaw trousers will stop the chainsaw cutting my leg off as the fibres will be wrapped around the chain and bar . I may still get cut but hopefully not too deeply. All I can think is what happens if the fibres in your gloves do the same with a 10” or bigger saw blade … I’d rather suffer the odd splinter than get anywhere near a blade or router bit etc ..

 

[Inspector]

I've seen this written before but wonder if it's a bit of a myth?
I use a pair of rigger gloves where necessary, with bigger boards/timbers, as the improved grip gives much better control and surely must be a lot safer. Not much use for protection (except from splinters) but definitely good for better control.

Why not test it yourself? Not by wearing the glove and touching the blade but put the glove on a long smooth stick (so it doesn't sliver you) and standing from the side of the table saw touch the blade. Then you will know if the glove cuts and the stick doesn't and it's all a myth or if it grabs it and the stick and tears it up, a real danger.

Pete

 

[Sorehorse]

It's the funny thing about safety. The differing opinions of how to do it.
Given my physical abilities, (muscular skeletal problems) I wear gloves for pretty much any task to keep my hands supported. It's this or not at all.
I'm aware of the potential of the tool snagging, or I have heard of it, but not put it to the test. It definitely works for abrasives, and model aircraft engines, where bizarrely, to adjust, your hand would be right next to the propeller. There are ways round that with remote needle valves, or most probably fly electric now any way...but tools are different.

I sit down for as much as possible, aware of the potential situation developing around tools.
I'm basically adapting everything for my needs, as there appears to be nothing available as an ambulant wheelchair user craftsman (cue political social care rant) on minimal budget.
I dont have a chair yet...
Anyways, I am about finding ways of how to do it.

There are fortunately, more quality brand name saws about than when I got the Evolution, but none seem to come with the track or the parallel guide.
This puts the rather hidden cost way up high, unles anyone knows a current sale or good used tools?

Some sort of large Large Feather edge board device to press the 8x2 half board against the fence perhaps, whilst supported on rollers? Maybe a 3D printer maker could produce a large version of this accessory?

 

[Jacob]

Why not test it yourself?

Because it's extremely unlikely that I would ever have my hand, with or without a glove, anywhere near a moving blade, anymore than I would accidentally stick it in an open fire, or the mouth of a wild beast!
Also because gloves can improve handling of heavy and /or splintery pieces and not wearing them would be a more obvious hazard in itself.

 

[Jacob]

....

Some sort of large Large Feather edge board device to press the 8x2 half board against the fence perhaps, whilst supported on rollers? Maybe a 3D printer maker could produce a large version of this accessory?

It's very easy to make your own feather boards, any size/shape you like, from off-cuts of timber. Then you just need a means of clamping it to the saw table - G clamps, bolt holes etc.

 

[Bingy man]

Well I’ll say that I didn’t realise you were a wheelchair user and I stand by my previous comments on cutting up full sheets on a table saw and I have to say with the utmost respect in your situation it’s crazy to even attempt such a task . I’m not doubting your ability but I’d recommend a helper for the larger projects . There is no reason why you shouldn’t use power tools but your safety should come first. Hopefully you have family members or friends that can help you with the more challenging things like cutting large panels Into smaller pieces..

 

[Sorehorse]

I learned to mostly not mention ability stuff anymore, it seems to have some pre-conceived ideas about it. I know my limits.
That's why I put things the way I do, so I can get on with it the best I can.
Alas that's part of the greater problem of the social care issues.

I have found remarkable ways to deal with difficult situations.
I would much rather get a hand though for big stuff.

This does kind of lead me to ask about something that occurred to me today, that maybe I should post asking about any pro traders who could rip my ply up for me with their track saw, then I could table saw it to size at my leisure. It's premium grade ply and don't want any errors.

 

[Bingy man]

There are many members here and I’ve read several threads where one member has helped another but if precise measurements are necessary then it’s probably best to allow a bit of wriggle room leaving the final dimensioning to yourself and thus avoiding mistakes. You would need to reveal your location so any members near you could let you know if they could help .. qudos to you though as we have many members of all ages and abilities and although I’d never say you should take up a safer hobby there are several aspects of woodworking that can lead to horrific injuries if something was to go wrong . Eg an able bodied person using a tablesaw in a standing position was to suffer a kick back then the piece of timber being thrown back is likely to hit you in the gut or possibly in the chest area . Now change that to a person in a wheelchair or a sitting position is probably going to get hit in the head . You may not be able to get out of the way in time to avoid being hit .. so the thought of you trying to safely feed an 8’ x 4’ sheet of ply through a job site saw on your own or with help is not comfortable at all..

 

[Sachakins]

Try this to support cutting plysheet with track saw

 

[Sachakins]

This one even better IMHO...

 

[Fergie 307]

I tend to support the board on the ground on 4x2 , a length either side of the cut and at each extremity of the board. Then clamp a straight edge to it and use a regular circular saw. Not particularly practical if you were doing it regularly, but as an occasional thing works well.