Sash windows

[chippy mark]

Hi this is my first post on here

I have a rotten sliding sash to replace so am going to make a new one,has anybody got any tips that would help me?

 

[opener]

Hi Mark
What in particular do you want to know?
In the meantime you may like to read this blog that was written about the making of a sash window http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/search? ... -results=7
Cheers
Malcolm

 

[clewlowm]

hi, they are quite easy to make. what is your skill level? ask the same question on the other side :? www.woodwork.co.uk

 

[joiner_sim]

If you require any help or guidance, don't hestitate to PM me. I make these for a living everyday, so sure I can help.

If I had any tips for you.....

Trench the stiles into the head & cill.
Notch out the cill for front and back fascias.
Cut out axel pulleys before assembly.
Cut out pockets on a 45degree cut, and remember not to glue the fascia to it!!!!
Have a think about anything you may want to include such as brush seal & plastic parting bead, before you start.

 

[clewlowm]

the pockets should have a shoulder. not a mitre?

 

[joiner_sim]

the pockets should have a shoulder. not a mitre?

When I do my pockets.....

I cut down with the chop saw on a 45degree to the point of the parting bead. Then I cut out using the bandsaw. Then just mitre a new piece in, countersink and pre-drill.... then screw. If it is sitting proud, the stile still needs sanding anyway, and I have the use of a drum sander. If no drum sander though, a belt sander/ orbital works equally well. This is the quickest way to do it in my opinion, as I said, I do it for a living so time=money.

 

[dexter]

Mitres on the old ones I worked on up here in the North.

Dex

 

[clewlowm]

always rebate joint. you don't want screws in a pocket, if it' mitred, there is a chance it could work loose, i was trained in the north 22 years ago. and have never seen a mitre on a pocket.

 

[ProShop]

always rebate joint. you don't want screws in a pocket, if it' mitred, there is a chance it could work loose, i was trained in the north 22 years ago. and have never seen a mitre on a pocket.

Nor me either

 

[clewlowm]

thankyou

 

[clewlowm]

just for the record mr sim, i own a small joinery company. all i do is sliding sash. i do make money, i understand your opinion, just don't agree with it.

regards mike

 

[joiner_sim]

just for the record mr sim, i own a small joinery company. all i do is sliding sash. i do make money, i understand your opinion, just don't agree with it.

regards mike

I'm not saying that mitres have to be done on pockets, thats just the way I do them. I've made hundreds like this, probably thousands. I've even made some for kensington palace, and I've had no comebacks from it....

 

[clewlowm]

i don't doubt that. it's just not the correct way of doing them. simple realy. you work in a commercial shop time is money. does not mean it's the right way though. do some research into box sash, have a go at the trad way?

 

[chippy mark]

The main thing I need to know is the dimensions of the meeting rail, I know it has a slope that fills the gap between the top and bottom sash is there a standard thickness for this slope?
Also the bottom sash should have a groove on the top rail to fit the glass into but I need to know the size of the groove
I have fitted hundreds of sliding sashes but never made one

 

[clewlowm]

it would be easier if you could get an old sash? meeting rail size can vary. the norm is 35mm thick 40mm wide, that will size you size of the slope. groove should be 10mm deep 5mm wide. i reckon you should go to the plastic window people and see if they have an old sash in ths skip.

regards mike.