johnnyb
Established Member
but it's important they are perfectly square. hence they are nailed to a little bit of wood on the bench( to make sure there square during aggressive nailing.)
It's all in Ellis - and your zinc templates, which I'd never noticed before. Though I think they'd be for drawing on to the rod - not the timber itself.guys please just chill with the rod stick thing we were doing so well!
And if you are still not sure it's all in Ellis!It's important to clarify this because the OP is getting confused and thinks he needs drawings, rods, storey sticks, MDF shelving and other paraphernalia, which he does not.
Jacob your drawing is called a rod because rods/battens were used to carry the marking out of all of the elements of the object before paper was available (I've explained what a storey stick is and you can chose to either believe it or not as you wish).
You mentioned drawings on floors in cathedrals. These were created by masons to work out the fine details, not to work out the overall dimensions of the cathedral. Which is why only small details are recorded on the floor in a palimpsest.
We see all of the drawings at the same time because archaeologists have removed all of the layers of whitewash which reveal the palimpsest. There are no scale drawings of cathedrals on these floors, only full scale elevations and sections of details or parts of details. There are no historical records of masons using rods, but I believe they did as a result of my research into fan vaults, but it conjecture on my part and has yet to be proved.
Medieval carpenters worked their dimensions out on a stick as they didn't have access to paper and didn't need it anyway.
The French layout their full scale stereotomy drawings on a floor, it is not known if English carpenters did the same as we have no historical record of carpenters floors and we have a very different method and culture of setting out timber frames than they do and it is pure conjecture to say otherwise.
And could we keep the thread to marking out sash windows only and not use it as a show and tell for assorted bits and bobs.
And that's where I get off the thread and leave you to it, Thank you and enjoy.
The Cassell’s carpentry book is American, from 1907 and had a huge chapter on Joiners Rods, and they are the way Jacob describes.On a side note I've always thought that a rod, something I've used many times, is the same as a what Americans call a story stick, but now? Jings, even I'm now a bit confused: rod, story stick, storey stick ... I think I give up, ha, ha.
Try another book? Or several. Ellis is good.As I said, as an inexperienced person trying to do this for the first time using the story stick method, based on following the detailed instructions in a book from 1910, I made a right pigs ear of it. Now I have my MDF shelf I can transfer my height drawing to I and do a width drawing also.
Stick with the mdf - it's reusable indefinitelyI’m sure if I did this more than a couple of times I probably wouldn’t need MDF or the “rod” and a stick would be fine.
Tape measure is easier. You might have to think about it and compromise if it's not perfectly square.I also made up a couple of “Pinch Rods” (Sticks??!!?) to get a proper internal measurement for the window space.
Rod is two dimensional and one of many pattern or layout systems widely used in many crafts and industries, from early days.....
On a side note I've always thought that a rod, something I've used many times, is the same as a what Americans call a story stick, but now? Jings, even I'm now a bit confused: rod, story stick, storey stick ... I think I give up, ha, ha.
Hard work though innit!Enjoyed ploughing through all the contributions though. Slainte.
Looks good!Ok, done that bit. Now I need a really powerful X-ray to transfer it to the wood.
View attachment 165136
I thought I’d draw up and build the frame before moving onto the sashes, then I’ll add the sashes to the rod (when my different colour pens come from eBay!).Looks good!
Next draw in the sash/opening light etc vertical details.
Ok, they are there on the edge of the board. That’s where I started actually, from the pinch rod.Two essential marks missing - the top and bottom of the opening for the window. Every other mark is then related to them. If they are right everything will be right, and vice versa. I usually flag those two marks with a hatched line or whatever, as they are critical.
Thats what I did actually, but offset by 2 inches.I usually draw the whole rod against the edge of the board, not in the middle, having marked up the lines by sliding a combi square along.
Yes, dimensions are a reference and were used for drawing the rod, setting out of the stock to be done from the rod.What you do next is to project all the lines you need to mark, on your stiles, across the rod with a square.
Then you lay on a stack of stiles or frame members as per my photo somewhere above, face/edge marks opposing to make sure you have handed pairs, then transfer the marks to the stack with a set square.
It means they are all exactly the same and also all exactly fit the drawing on the rod.
Then same again with a horizontal rod, stating by putting in the width of the opening and fitting the drawing to them. Then mark up all your rails and the cills, in stacks the same.
You don't need to put in dimensions except as a reference, as all your marks will be taken from the rod itself with no measuring required.
Casement. Just a prototype, trying to learn the process.which bit is that. it looks like a cross between a casement and a sash. are you making sashes or a sash box?
Clearance gaps? You've got to able to fit the thing in the hole.....
Ok, they are there on the edge of the board.
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