Rutland's tenoning jig - anyone used it?

[slemishwoodcrafts]

As the title says, anyone used this And if so what are your thoughts?

Its a good price just now http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... ota+dk2087

 

[beech1948]

I have not used one of these but if you have a bandsaw then its possible to cut accurate and precise tenons easily with it. No jig required except a scrap of wood and a clamp as a stop block.

 

[Rhossydd]

The major concern with this jig is that it requires the blade guarding to be removed and a low riving knife fitted.
So factor in the time and effort needed to build new effective guarding and riving knife as this sort of cut can leave a lot of exposed blade ie risk.

The second problem is can your TS can accept it ? It fits in an imperial sized mitre slot, not the more common European sized ones. So again it might need extra work and expense to get it to fit.

I saw it and didn't bother with it. There's easier and safer ways to cut tenons.

 

[PAC1]

I have one but am in the process of setting it up. It is a tad rough and needs quite a bit of adjustment to get it working properly. It is a cheap copy of the Grizzly tennoning jig. I would work on needing 4 hours to set it up properly. Thereafter it should be accurate. If I get time to finish it soon I will do some photos and review but do not hold your breath it may be Christmas before I can do it

 

[Ed Bray]

I've got one, works okay, I only used it a couple of times on my Kity before both changing to my SIP and buying a Domino. I have converted it back from the Kity to fit the standard slot on the SIP but haven't found a need to use it since.

 

[mickthetree]

been using mine this evening on my startrite. works like a charm. allows very fine adjustement. Seems well built, feels nice and solid.
Got mine for £49 delivered on one of their special offers.

 

[bobcat]

Hii haveone also the first thing i would do is download theset up instructions for the Delta one from the us site, use these to set it up.
Its a bit rough round the edges but once set up its accurate, you may need to tidy it up here and there but for the money it.s a good deal.
Tim

 

[mickthetree]

oh yes, the instructions are TERRIBLE! haha, I binned mine and just made it up. I'm sure there must be a good video out there somewhere on how to set it up / adjust it. If not, make one!

 

[slemishwoodcrafts]

thanks for replies guys. Had a think about it and im going to go with a pockrt hole system. Was going to be using it to cut tenons on a cot im going to be building but after drawing up plans I wont have the height between ceiling and tablesaw to run the pieces vertically.

Going to go with the kreg k4 or similar

 

[Steve Maskery]

Overhead is the limit on any vertical tenoning jig, even mine!
If you have a bandsaw, though, you do not have that restriction, and you can either cut them freehand or use a jig to give you perfect tenons, which will be better than any Kreg
S

 

[dejaa]

Hi
Yes I have one of the original Delta ones I bought from USA (or Canada? so long ago now) after seeing Norm using one. I had it fitted to a Felder CF741 sliding table and used it to cut cheek cuts on 100's of tenons. Can't imagine why someone stated 4 hours to set up? certainly nowhere near that long.

You do have to remove the riving blade, but the purpose of this is to stop the outfeed of timber catching the back side of the sawblade and coming back to whack you in the face when RIPPING timber. How long are your tenons??? but the time the tenon clears the front of the blade it's barely reached where the riving knife would be, plus in any case it's unlikely to cause a problem. You DO HAVE to watch out for the cut piece being shunted backwards, so best to organise the order of cuts to minimise this and don't look directly behind the cut!!

I have one to sell if anyone interested, now I've retired

David

 

[PAC1]

Hi
Yes I have one of the original Delta ones I bought from USA (or Canada? so long ago now) after seeing Norm using one. I had it fitted to a Felder CF741 sliding table and used it to cut cheek cuts on 100's of tenons. Can't imagine why someone stated 4 hours to set up? certainly nowhere near that long.

You do have to remove the riving blade, but the purpose of this is to stop the outfeed of timber catching the back side of the sawblade and coming back to whack you in the face when RIPPING timber. How long are your tenons??? but the time the tenon clears the front of the blade it's barely reached where the riving knife would be, plus in any case it's unlikely to cause a problem. You DO HAVE to watch out for the cut piece being shunted backwards, so best to organise the order of cuts to minimise this and don't look directly behind the cut!!

I have one to sell if anyone interested, now I've retired

David

I was talking about the initial build and fettling of the castings to get them working correctly not the time to adjust it to cut tennons. The Delta one might not of needed 4 hrs but the Rutlands (Chinese copy) needs time to remove all the bits from the casting that should have been removed prior to calling it finished and to square up brackets and adjusters that should have been squared before it left the factory. Thereafter it works well and is simple to adjust. Mine is also on the slider of a CF741 did you just use the mitre slot to mount it?

 

[dejaa]

Hi
yes I did, the mitre groove in the sliding table is slightly wider than my jigs guide bar. I made some small wooden wedges to fill the gap at either end of the jig so that it sat square with the 741's sliding table and thus of course with the saw blade.
I did fabricate a metal bar, not quit the width of the "T" part of the slot (so as not to interfere with the alignment) so that the whole thing could be clamped down securely against the sliding table. I was able to make cheek cuts that were within a few thou thickness across there length, so maybe the Delta system was factory "fettled" It certainly cost a great deal more. I think I paid the equivalent of £100


David