Rutlands router table

[Stevedimebag]

On the lookout for a router tablecand seen this in offer at Rutlands. Preferably I'd like one with height adjustment but I am not looking to spend much just now.
For under £40 I thought this one looked ok to start with.

Anyone own one of these or have experience?

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+christmas-gift-store+XMAS?promo=XT3504

 

[Lonsdale73]

Featherboards and NVR alone probably worth that.

 

[Eric The Viking]

It does look rather like something left out for the dustman.

There are several recent threads on here about making your own table very inexpensively, including a rather good idea for a fence that is fixed at one end and swings across the cutter rather than moving in a parallel way. Search for something like "first router table".

You'd spend a lot less than 40 quid and get something much more useful. The one in Rutlands's pictures has sagging infeed and outfeed extensions, and without them, you will have real difficulty working with long stock, and an NVR limited to 1800W is potentially troublesome and certainly cheap & nasty (it's a solenoid-controled relay and the cost of making the contacts stronger is negligible - real cost-saving going on there!).

To put it into perspective a bit, it costs only about 60% of several of the cutters I own. That's either an incredible bargain or something to be suspicious of.

All you need as a FLAT, slippery surface you can mount the router on underneath, and for a fence almost anything will do. I used a bit of scrap Ikea wardrobe shelving for the table, and whatever was handy (held down with clamps) for the fence. Table fixed instead of the jaws on a portable "Workmate-style" workbench. Much bigger and more stable than that thing, very easy to use, and giving excellent results. Put the money saved towards good cutters from Wealden or Axminster, and unless you see a brilliant bargain, only buy them as you need them, and buy good ones (not a cheap set just because it's "good value").

E.

PS:i was going to say "featherboards are a real PITA and anyway if you have a hand saw you can make your own" or something. But if you are inexperienced, you probably need to get some good advice on router safety. There are lots of router accidents, and the worst thing is that the pieces that get taken off are usually too small to be put back again (but there will be a lot of them). Custard recently made some good comments about this.

Featherboards don't neccessarily make router table operations safer (but they can - if you already understand what you are doing). Wealdens had an excellent set of videos made by the late Ron Fox about using routers - I hope they're still on the site. Ron had a long lifetime of experience when he made them, and although he can be a bit slow explaining stuff, the advice is very sound.

- try simple cuts first;
- understand the things you really shouldn't do, for example, NEVER run the stock between the cutter and the fence;
- know what the dangerous actions are for your fingers, etc. and avoid them, and so on.

Personally, I "rehearse" some cuts with the power off, as far as it's possible, just to make sure I know where my hands will go, and if there are awkward moments. I wear gloves for grip (they won't protect my fingers at all!), and ear defenders. And I make sure I can always reach the off switch easily (this could be pulling the plug, incidentally, but good NVR switches are easily available and not expensive).

 

[Brandlin]

I agree with Lonsdale73 - the switch 3 featherboards and moulded dust port would cost you almost £40 to source.

Whilst it proudly boasts that it accepts anything up to 1800 Watts (that's 2.4 hp) I suspect that is the electrical rating of the peak load of the switch. An 1800 watt router is getting big and for a router that size you would be able to run some pretty large diameter bits - like panel raising or mitre lock. However the smaller print says max bit diameter 22mm so you are going to be limited really to straight bits or small bits (usually on a 1/4" shaft") for example a 45 degree chamfer bit on a 1/2" shank is going to be wider than 22 mm at the base - as i suspect is an ogee or other basic pattern bit.

The small print also says, suitable for routers up to 3.5kg. Thats also going to rule out most everything other than a trim or 1/4" router.

Having said all that. If you want a starter table for a first small router for simple template routing, round overs, chamfers or small piece work. Then this could be a good buy.

 

[Stevedimebag]

Should have said, it's mainly for template routing guitar bodies and necks. I won't be needing it for much more than that at this stage in my woodworking journey.
I have a 1/4" erbauer router but it doesn't have the switch to keep it on. My hitachi 1/2" router does, so that's what would be in the table. Can't remember the model number exactly but it's essentially the old version of the current m12ve router. I notice that's 2000w so rules that table out straight away!

Thanks for the help anyway guys. I'll search for the first router table thread and go from there

 

[MikeJhn]

I wont treat you like an ***** and tell you to keep your fingers away from a spinning bit. :roll:

I have one of these as a second string router table: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... nds+dk2080 not the best in the world, but accurate enough once you set it up, good price for a unit with motor and lift IMO.

Mike

 

[Brandlin]

Should have said, it's mainly for template routing guitar bodies and necks. I won't be needing it for much more than that at this stage in my woodworking journey

I doubt you are going to template route a guitar body (40 mm ish) on that table with only a 1/4" shank bit. I've done a couple with a 1/2" template bit and a 2+hp router and even then the tricky grain around the horns is kinda scary.

 

[MikeJhn]

I wont insult you by assuming you don't know already, but for those that may not, when routing end grain always do it first with a sacrificial piece of timber on the outfeed side to minimise the break out of the right angle long grain, route in small increments until maximum profile is reached only then rout the long grain side, this will remove the rest of any break out on the cross grain end piece.

Sorry if this is obvious to all, but thought it may be worth saying.

Mike

 

[Stevedimebag]

Should have said, it's mainly for template routing guitar bodies and necks. I won't be needing it for much more than that at this stage in my woodworking journey

I doubt you are going to template route a guitar body (40 mm ish) on that table with only a 1/4" shank bit. I've done a couple with a 1/2" template bit and a 2+hp router and even then the tricky grain around the horns is kinda scary.

Yes the horn is scary - I have done it without a table twice now - with the 1/4" shank, 25mm bearing cutter. I supported the router on the other side with an offcut and a piece of ply the same thickness as the template.
It was very scary but both time was ok. I just took very shallow and slim passes.

I'm wanting a table mainly to eliminate this issue and also to allow me to route necks.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Does it 'seem' likely you will get a decent router table for 40 quid. If you had to post the question here, you already doubt it. Avoid.

If you are template routing, the fence and feather boards are redundant, but the surface of the table needs to be smooth and omnidirectional. The grooves, rough as bears' bums, will catch and make template routing a pain. Avoid.

I'm sure you could make your own for around 40 quid that would be much better.

Mike.

 

[MikeJhn]

Woodbrians

You seem to know a lot about this table, do you have one?

Mike

 

[TFrench]

Aldi sell one that looks identical quite often for cheaper. I got one when I first started out and it was as rubbish as everyone says - very wibbly-wobbly!

 

[Stevedimebag]

Hello,

Does it 'seem' likely you will get a decent router table for 40 quid. If you had to post the question here, you already doubt it. Avoid.

If you are template routing, the fence and feather boards are redundant, but the surface of the table needs to be smooth and omnidirectional. The grooves, rough as bears' bums, will catch and make template routing a pain. Avoid.

I'm sure you could make your own for around 40 quid that would be much better.

Mike.

well it does say it retails at £100...(whether that's inflated or not is open to question) - I wasn't expecting much, but was hoping someone with any experience of that table would pipe up. If the NVR was rated higher I would probably just go ahead and take it for £40 but gonna pass for now.

I will be making my own table over the next few days/ week, on the same design as the guy who posted a thread title 'my first router table' or something similar. Simple flat MFC that can be used in a work mate bench. It'll be perfect because I'm low on space as it is right now and it'll pack away nicely into a nook in the garage come workshop.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I will be making my own table over the next few days/ week, on the same design as the guy who posted a thread title 'my first router table' or something similar. Simple flat MFC that can be used in a work mate bench. It'll be perfect because I'm low on space as it is right now and it'll pack away nicely into a nook in the garage come workshop.

Good choice - you'll be really pleased you did!

Even though I haven't used it for quite a few years, I kept the Ikea shelf (600x600) that I used to use, simply because having it dead flat with nothing in the way was so handy, and there will inevitably be some occasion when I do need it again.

And... if Rutlands can sell their product for 40 quid, what's their mark up? Let's say 40% (being generous to them - most retailers of that type of item would probably want more). So the product cost would be roughly 24 quid.

Then there's taxes: let's be generous and say 5.50 (allowing for import duty on top of VAT). So now we're down to around 18.50. I can't guess what containerized bulk shipping might be, but let's say 1.50 per unit, just to keep the numbers easy.

So the ex-factory (FOB) price is probably no more than 17 quid. And obviously the Chinese aren't doing it to lose money, either.

Value is always what someone will pay for something, I know. But the fact is...

E.

 

[woodbrains]

Woodbrians

You seem to know a lot about this table, do you have one?

Mike

Hello,

I don't own one, I made my own and would advise this as the best way if you have a tight budget, possibly the best way even if money is less of an object.

I do know someone with one, though. I think it is pants. A sheet of MRMDF with a hole drilled into it, a couple of coats of sanding sealer and the router bolted beneath will be superior.

Mike.

 

[MikeJhn]

Everyone has their own opinion and will always think what they have is superior to anything you can buy, no one on here has first hand experience of this unit so its up to you to make up your own mind, £40.00 is not a lot of money and will get you up and running immediately, you pays your money.......................

Mike

 

[sickasapike]

Not sure how I missed this, but I just got one of these a fortnight ago, 40 quid in the recent sale.

It's not marvellous but I'm pretty pleased given the price, as above, one of the reasons is I was looking at buying an NVR switch anyway and my home made router table weighed a ton (25mm mdf, not fun to take off the top of a cupboard !).

The featherboards work pretty well, the extensions are rigid and non-wonky, dust extraction works fine, my mini Makita router fits in OK-ish (kept the dust guard on, seems to help the built in extractor).

I screwed the legs to 2 slabs of 25mm mdf running front to back, and clamp those to the bench, it's nice and solid.

3 of the clamps underneath fit onto the upended bottom of the router nicely, albeit one securing on the plastic of the dust guard, the fourth clamp wont, so I use it to stop it moving to the side; it's very firm though - I guess that's down to what model router/cutter you have, if you need any photos of that bit or anything else, just ask.

I'd definitely buy it again at that price.

 

[MikeJhn]

At last someone who actually has one, seems its not as bad as most on here guessed.

Mike

 

[Stevedimebag]

Not sure how I missed this, but I just got one of these a fortnight ago, 40 quid in the recent sale.

It's not marvellous but I'm pretty pleased given the price, as above, one of the reasons is I was looking at buying an NVR switch anyway and my home made router table weighed a ton (25mm mdf, not fun to take off the top of a cupboard !).

The featherboards work pretty well, the extensions are rigid and non-wonky, dust extraction works fine, my mini Makita router fits in OK-ish (kept the dust guard on, seems to help the built in extractor).

I screwed the legs to 2 slabs of 25mm mdf running front to back, and clamp those to the bench, it's nice and solid.

3 of the clamps underneath fit onto the upended bottom of the router nicely, albeit one securing on the plastic of the dust guard, the fourth clamp wont, so I use it to stop it moving to the side; it's very firm though - I guess that's down to what model router/cutter you have, if you need any photos of that bit or anything else, just ask.

I'd definitely buy it again at that price.

cheers for the honest review - I like the dust extraction feature on it as I will have to sort something out myself for my home made job, but the NVR switch isn't big enough for my router (unfortunately). Will just have to make some featherboards myself as well...

 

[MikeJhn]

1800watt NVR as opposed to a 2000watt machine, difference equates to 0.909 amps at 220volts, or 0.833amps at 240volts, would the NVR take the extra load? manufactures head room may be the answer.

Mike