I have a number of rusty tools--chisels / saws / pillar drill bed. What product do you use to remove rust? Some more effective than others?
Many thanks.
Many thanks.
Rusty Tools
- Thread starter Mikegtr
- Start date
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A quick search will find many more threads covering electrolysis, acids and commercial mixtures.
A quick search will find many more threads covering electrolysis, acids and commercial mixtures.
TheTiddles
Established Member
Evaporust is fantastic, not cheap but worth it
Aidan
Aidan
ManowarDave
Fighting the World
+1 for Evaporust
Dave
Dave
Doug B
Shy Tot
Vinegar & salt worked well for me when I cleaned up a couple of planes.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
Established Member
Citric acid.
I table spoon per litre of water.
It is slow, but works well. Just don't try it with non ferrous metals.
The steel may turn black, this can be removed with a wire brush, wire wool or in some cases a pressure washer.
This will seep into all the nocks and crannies of the part and remove the rust.
A few tips.
Wash the parts off well.
Dry well, I use a Hot air paint stripper.
If you don't get a protective coating on the parts it will rust again, quickly.
Linseed oil and wax will give the tools a level or protection.
Electrolysis works as well.
Plenty of tips on You Tube.
A Battery charger, scrap steel, water and washing soda. 2 table spoons of soda to 5lt of water.
Set up the tank, Positive cable to the anode, Negative to the item to be de-rusted and away you go.
This works by "line of Site" more anodes you have the better the results.
Again dry well and a protective coating on as soon as possible.
I have done many tools for Men In Sheds over time.
For speed, wire wheel on a bench grinder, or in a angle grinder will give you near instant results. But can be difficult to get into tight areas.
Great for chisels, plane irons and wooden handles screwdrivers.
For brass and copper.
1/3 salt.
1/3 vinegar.
1/3 flour.
Mix into a paste, apply and wrap in cling film. Check on a regular bases as it can leach the copper out. If that happens you have to polish it harder.
Hope this helps.
I table spoon per litre of water.
It is slow, but works well. Just don't try it with non ferrous metals.
The steel may turn black, this can be removed with a wire brush, wire wool or in some cases a pressure washer.
This will seep into all the nocks and crannies of the part and remove the rust.
A few tips.
Wash the parts off well.
Dry well, I use a Hot air paint stripper.
If you don't get a protective coating on the parts it will rust again, quickly.
Linseed oil and wax will give the tools a level or protection.
Electrolysis works as well.
Plenty of tips on You Tube.
A Battery charger, scrap steel, water and washing soda. 2 table spoons of soda to 5lt of water.
Set up the tank, Positive cable to the anode, Negative to the item to be de-rusted and away you go.
This works by "line of Site" more anodes you have the better the results.
Again dry well and a protective coating on as soon as possible.
I have done many tools for Men In Sheds over time.
For speed, wire wheel on a bench grinder, or in a angle grinder will give you near instant results. But can be difficult to get into tight areas.
Great for chisels, plane irons and wooden handles screwdrivers.
For brass and copper.
1/3 salt.
1/3 vinegar.
1/3 flour.
Mix into a paste, apply and wrap in cling film. Check on a regular bases as it can leach the copper out. If that happens you have to polish it harder.
Hope this helps.
I have tried pretty much all of the standard methods, my favourite is now citric acid. It's fairly fast, super easy and very cheap for small to medium sized items.
Bigger items then I go electrolysis but it is a bit of a faff compared to the citric.
Bigger items then I go electrolysis but it is a bit of a faff compared to the citric.
I'm not going to claim citric acid is the best solution but it has some major advantages for anyone just starting down this road.
It's cheap. Its can be delivered to your door by online sellers in powder form which lasts foreverish in smallish tubs that are easily stored. It doesn't take up space or stink like vinegar. You can up the dose a little. A little drop of fairy is good for breaking surface tension btw.
Flash rusting is a risk but when washing of the citric I dose it in bicarbonate then oven /torch dry and doing that I have never had an issue. Some will say its voodoo but it works for me.
If you decide to use electrolysis remember not to use stainless steel as a sacrificial piece.
Never used Evaporust personally.
Good luck and enjoy!
Cross posted with above but ame opinion.
For the drill bed I'd use a razor in a scraper. Green pads. Check out Wallace's world class renovations of wadkin machinery for a masterclass. He has plenty of threads detailing his methods if you search using the advanced search filter on here.
It's cheap. Its can be delivered to your door by online sellers in powder form which lasts foreverish in smallish tubs that are easily stored. It doesn't take up space or stink like vinegar. You can up the dose a little. A little drop of fairy is good for breaking surface tension btw.
Flash rusting is a risk but when washing of the citric I dose it in bicarbonate then oven /torch dry and doing that I have never had an issue. Some will say its voodoo but it works for me.
If you decide to use electrolysis remember not to use stainless steel as a sacrificial piece.
Never used Evaporust personally.
Good luck and enjoy!
Cross posted with above but ame opinion.
For the drill bed I'd use a razor in a scraper. Green pads. Check out Wallace's world class renovations of wadkin machinery for a masterclass. He has plenty of threads detailing his methods if you search using the advanced search filter on here.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Lee Valley tools sells a rust remover from England. That should make it easy for you to get and perhaps cheaper than we get it for.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/to ... te-and-gel
Pete
Here you go. https://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/to ... te-and-gel
Pete
Here you go. https://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk
Thanks for your replies to my question.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I get mine where I get quite a few foodstuffs -
https://www.buywholefoodsonline.co.uk/c ... d-1kg.html
https://www.buywholefoodsonline.co.uk/c ... d-1kg.html
The_Yellow_Ardvark
Established Member
I have just had 5 Black recycling size box's of rusty tools media blasted for less than £100.
I found a blasting company who were willing to do the blasting with a soft non damaging media and oil dip the tools.
We had to strip them to the components and remove all non ferrous parts.
Down side, any stickers or paint will be moved and the finish parts need a good clean to remove the oil.
Up side it is quick, cheep and gives a uniform finish.
We had to wait until they were set up for the soft media, but I think it was less than a week.
I found a blasting company who were willing to do the blasting with a soft non damaging media and oil dip the tools.
We had to strip them to the components and remove all non ferrous parts.
Down side, any stickers or paint will be moved and the finish parts need a good clean to remove the oil.
Up side it is quick, cheep and gives a uniform finish.
We had to wait until they were set up for the soft media, but I think it was less than a week.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
What was the blasting media? Plastic bead, soda, dry ice or something else?
Pete
Pete
thetyreman
Established Member
I have found putting them in a tool chest cures 95% of rust problems, I still coat the blades in camelia oil though, just a very light wipe, I used to leave them on shelves and had lots of rust issues.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
Established Member
I am not sure of the media, but I think it was soda for the worse parts.
I was told they used nut shells on the items after the first blast.
I was told they used nut shells on the items after the first blast.
