Rustins Plastic Coating straight from the horses mouth

[rafezetter]

Hmm thanks for that Phil - I left it alone, but I'm going to sand back, and recoat tomorrow. I'm obviously not sanding it all back so I am adding layers albeit much slower. If I use a brush and apply thicker this will help.

as an addendum this is the reply from rustins; I told them the doors were from a kitchen which had been previously been coated, but which I had gone to some lengths to remove.

Hi

This product is extremely sensitive to contaminants such as cleaning chemicals, wax polishes, food stuffs, oils etc. If these for any reason enter the timber the strong solvents in the PC will dissolve them out and will probably not affect the first coat but the second. We have seen the second OK and orange peel on the third. The addition of the thinners is not the cause but helps dissolving out the contaminants into the coating. The only remedy is to sanding back into the timber heavily and then reapply 3 coats to one of the problem areas. The alternative is to use Rustins Quick Dry Clear Varnish (acrylic based). Avoid waxes, pledge and spray cleaners on coatings. Clean with warm water and mild detergent.


Technical Services

Rustins Ltd

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Interesting. I was wondering whether there was something in/on the wood.

 

[chrisatlake]

Hi, I've decided to try Rustins Plastic Coating for my latest guitar build. I have read everything I can find about the product and finally applied the first coat. The temperature was approximately 18 degrees and I waited for 2 hours and applied a second coat. The first coat was dry to the touch but felt draggy (new word ) I left the second coat to dry approximately 12 hours and the finish still felt dry but draggy. Is this to be expected for this type of finish?

I wet sanded the finish to remove brush marks and other imperfections. The paper loaded with plastic-like baubles which brushed easily off of the sandpaper. Is this expected too? I have left the sanded finish a further 24 hours before I apply a third coat. I am becoming more concerned that I am not doing something right.

I mixed 4 parts finish and 1 part hardener, stirred thoroughly but didn't want to introduce too many bubbles in the mix.

 

[chrisatlake]

Not sure if you can see the finish issues or not

 

[memzey]

I'm afraid I can't help you with the finish but that's a damn fine looking guitar!

 

[chrisatlake]

I'm afraid I can't help you with the finish but that's a damn fine looking guitar!

Thank you.

 

[Gooselaz]

I have given my worktop a few coats with rustins plastic coating, correct mix. Light sanding with1200 wet and dry using a small amount of white spirit. It still always seems patchy and I can see run marks. What should I do?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A few coats - how quickly did you put them on?

 

[Gabby198]

Hi I have used Rustin's on my oak worktop but my dad said to leave for at least 3 days before running down me applying another coat. Is this correct? The instructions say to apply another coat after one hour and a few of you on here had mentioned hours between coats but not days. Have I messed up? Will I be able to apply another coat even if it's started after? Any help welcome as I'm completely new to renovating and decorating!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can sand when touch dry as you are only really de nibbing. You can put several coats on without sanding if you're in a perfectly clean area with no airborne dust (and your prep is 100%), but if you need to sand seriously (like if you're flattening it for a french polish like shine) you're better leaving it til it's bone dry after a few days or it's likely to drag a bit. You might find wet and dry better than anything else, specially if there's any softness left in it.

 

[Bobby0234]

Hi,

I have been reading this and similar posts with great interest but I still have a couple of questions if there is someone that could possibly help.
I have just fitted a new kitchen and my wife decided on oak worktops. Now I’ve fitted many kitchen but never got involved with a solid wood worktop.

So after a fair bit of research and advice I’ve decided to use Rustins Plasric coating. But alas I can’t seem to find much in depth info from when starting from naked worktop.
The tops are cut to size, joints are already to go.
So my first question is do I need to coat all side of the worktop like it suggests when using danish oil?
Or do I fix the worktops together, sand joints etc then coat whilst in situ?
I’m guessing that I should leave out sink and hob so these can be fitted after treatment.

Any info would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.

 

[gasman]

Not sure thats a good solution for a kitchen top. Surely kitchen tops get a far bit of misuse? Knives, things getting dropped on to them etc - we'll mine do anyway. Rustins plastic coating is tough - stain water spirit resistant etc but it will scratch easily with something sharp. This would ruin your beautiful flat surface imho. I would have thought hardwaxoil or similar would be better and easier to touch up once there is damage. Just my opinion
Cheers Mark

 

[gasman]

But whatever you do the sides etc all need protection from water oil etc