Rust on machine tables

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eribaMotters

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Hatherleigh, Devon
Somewhere this has been covered as I know I've commented on the situation.
I've moved to a lovely and [very] wet Devon. My cast iron machine tables generally seem to be holding up well in a single block construction garage. As in previous workshops I've gone over tables with 400 grit and a thin oil to remove odd spots, wiped down with a damp white spirit rag and then applied beeswax and polished off. I have one surface, the thicknesser table that is not playing ball and developed rust over the entire surface.
I'm looking at two options. My initial thought was a thin spray of WD40 and then an old thin tea cloth. I then thought the cloth might absorb moisture, so how about a sheet of greaseproof paper?

Colin
 
Somewhere this has been covered as I know I've commented on the situation.
I've moved to a lovely and [very] wet Devon. My cast iron machine tables generally seem to be holding up well in a single block construction garage. As in previous workshops I've gone over tables with 400 grit and a thin oil to remove odd spots, wiped down with a damp white spirit rag and then applied beeswax and polished off. I have one surface, the thicknesser table that is not playing ball and developed rust over the entire surface.
I'm looking at two options. My initial thought was a thin spray of WD40 and then an old thin tea cloth. I then thought the cloth might absorb moisture, so how about a sheet of greaseproof paper?

Colin
Try acf 50 it protects metal that’s in a damp environment, used by bikers and motorists to protect their beloved machines.
ACF-50 A10013 Motorcycle and Automotive All
ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Lubricant 32oz
 
Another vote for ACF-50
WD40 is not that good when compared to many newer products on the market
 
Get a small rod heater (GoldenRod is one brand) and put it in the machine with a canvas tarp, no plastic, or blanket over the machine. It will stay warm enough to keep water from condensing on it.

Pete
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I've gone for the Axi wax. As I only wanted a single item it was cheaper to go through there e-bay shop.

Colin
 
I use the Axminster Machine Wax on all my cast iron machine surfaces and when not in use ( especially this time of year), I cover the surfaces with old towels.....Never had a problem with surface rust since!

https://www.axminstertools.com/axmi...4r0pHiA2TjoJsbvGxwEvacG4e7Tt8M6AaAuhqEALw_wcB

I bought this last autumn, and whilst it's only a few months, it seems to be holding up well - bandsaw and lathe haven't noticeably rusted since applying (they were both 2nd hand, and never 'shiny' surfaces, but they've not got worse!)
 
Use this all the time on the beds and my planes. Apply and wipe off your tail stock will slide beautifully after application. As I use for wood I am not buying anything extra.
 

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Yesterday I had to scrub my P/T and spindle sander tables, used Scotchbrite pads. As a bit of an experiment I wiped on boiled linseed oil, and wiped off as much as poss. Left hardly any, just enough to see a colour change on the iron. That's normally good against rust so we'll see. It's dried overnight, in a day or three I'll give it a coat of wax and see how that works out. If it doesn't work it'll all wipe off with thinners no problem.
 
Scotchbrite
Metalguard ultra
Liberon (machine) table wax

Redo the wax as needed or every 6mth for safety.
I have some px24 to try instead of the metalguard as it's cheaper.
 
I use Briwax, warm the cast up with a hot air gun and apply the wax some will soak into the cast and it keeps the bed in good condition
 
Scotchbrite
Metalguard ultra
Liberon (machine) table wax

Redo the wax as needed or every 6mth for safety.
I have some px24 to try instead of the metalguard as it's cheaper.
Despite using Metalguard a year ago, my tables recently became rusty in this humid weather. I contacted the Metalguard chaps and asked their advice on surface preparation. They suggested removing any oily residue prior to coating. I've cleaned up my tables with scotch Brite, then isopropyl alcohol and applied the Metalguard to see if it makes a difference.
 
Interesting @furnace. Thanks for sharing that.

Metalguard is very thin and I assume uses a petroleum solvent.
I would typically apply it onto bare metal of newly cleaned tables.
First take off any thick, bright red rust with a scraper or loose stanley blade
Second scotchbrite with WD40 as a lubricant, wipe dry with paper roll
Then the metalguard - barely a thimble full spread with fingers, just enough to wet the surface, and leave to evaporate, buff lightly with paper to reduce the inevitable finger marks
Lastly, repeat with the wax.

I'm assuming the solvent in the metalguard will carry it into the pores of the metal surface, displacing any trace WD40 left in there from the scotchbrite session, but it would be well worth a test piece to compare with and without the alcohol degrease. IPA is a great solvent so it can only help.
 
I dont know why anyone would want to faff about using God knows what to try and protect their cast iron surfaces......Just buy the proprietary stuff that was/is made and designed to do the job.
In the big scheme of things, it's a small price to pay.....I do my metal surfaces about 2 or 3 times a year and the tin I linked to from Axminster is not even half empty and I've had it for 5 or 6 years.....👍
 
I found more rust today. I went to use my pipe clamps and found the threads rusty. So they got a treatment as well as the planer/thicknesser, bandsaw, circular saw and morticer.
This damp Devon weather and it's effects has truly come as a surprise. I've been so fortunate in having dry workshops for the last 30 years.
At least I can enjoy the green view out of the door, when it stops raining.

Colin
 

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