Rulers.

[flying haggis]

Many years ago I worked with a carpenter who used a one metre folding rule, but tended to use imperial measurements so if he measured something longer than a metre he would use the full length of the rule then add on the remainder in inches! So if he asked you to cut a length of wood you were given a measurement of 1m 16 1/2ins.! As I used a measuring tape I had to mark one metre then add the inches. Got used to it in the end.

 

[deema]

I too have a ruler, bits are wearing out, and age is affecting its utility however I couldn’t change her for a newer model, she’d kill me!!

 

[Jacob]

Many years ago I worked with a carpenter who used a one metre folding rule, but tended to use imperial measurements so if he measured something longer than a metre he would use the full length of the rule then add on the remainder in inches! So if he asked you to cut a length of wood you were given a measurement of 1m 16 1/2ins.! As I used a measuring tape I had to mark one metre then add the inches. Got used to it in the end.

I use both, as the fancy takes me. Sawn dimensions in inches and/or feet, finished in mm.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

The use of 12 actually comes from a base 60 system, first records of which seem to be over 5000 years old. Useful because it has lots of whole factors. It's also quite easy to use your hands to count too. Wikipedia has an article on it, search for sexagesimal.

 

[powertools]

Advent rules and tape measures are the ones I use and are well worth a look at if you are looking for new ones.

 

[Pabs]

anyone use story sticks / relative measuring? I'm using these or a couple strips wood which can be tacked or CA glued to exact dimensions if transferring to a cut.
used it for leg h frames where it works well.

 

[Trafalgar]

Old boxwood Rabone in eighths. That's all you need. If you're measuring one millimeter, you simply don't get it and probably never will.

 

[Adam W.]

anyone use story sticks / relative measuring? I'm using these or a couple strips wood which can be tacked or CA glued to exact dimensions if transferring to a cut.
used it for leg h frames where it works well.

All the time, but they are slightly controversial in this neck of the woods.

 

[Pabs]

All the time, but they are slightly controversial in this neck of the woods.

why?




honestly hadn't realised there were so many controversies in all this wood

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Old boxwood Rabone in eighths. That's all you need. If you're measuring one millimeter, you simply don't get it and probably never will.

I loathe those things.

 

[Ttrees]

Those are rules what can't be broken,
or should I say, cant break'em if they're already broke!

 

[Scruples]

sammyQ
ur wasted here.....
I cant find the trident on my keyboard let alone the meaning.....lol......

Psi, and it's all Greek to me too...

 

[Adam W.]

why?




honestly hadn't realised there were so many controversies in all this wood

If you read the recent thread on sash windows, all will be revealed

 

[paulrbarnard]

why?




honestly hadn't realised there were so many controversies in all this wood

Ditto. I use them if I’m making more than one or two of something, such as table legs.

 

[paulrbarnard]

If you read the recent thread on sash windows, all will be revealed

Oh that’s one I missed.

Edit: found the thread started reading thinking what’s contentious here, got to the bottom of the page to see 1/24. Ahh plenty of scope for contention in there. Will read it later

 

[Spectric]

I'd argue that on parts under (say) 600mm which is a very useful length of steel rule, it's nice to have repeatability of better than 0.5mm and a ruler stop is the way to get that most easily.

Where possible I use straight edges, rulers and stops along with a woodpeckers story stick

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/woodpeckers-story-stick-pro-96-dual-scale/
Once you have the stops located then much easier to transfer measurements otherwise you can introduce errors on each measurement taken and on applying to the workpiece. Also work from a single datum otherwise you can end up with accumulated errors.

Also lets not forget our eyesight in all of this, using stops removes eyesight issues as well as we get older.

 

[Tortoise]

I reckon imperial evolved for people who were making and measuring things, and metric for people who were counting things, (accountants etc. fingers helping).

Yes. I have recently worked on an english antique and there, everything is imperial. Reconstructing a piece from fragments and the witness marks on them it's been pleasing to calculate the dimensions of missing parts and find they are all values seen on an imperial ruler.
For interest, I can add the dovetail gradient can be different from the modern norm. In particular, the piece has dovetails with a 1 in 3 gradient.

 

[Spectric]

When you look at the metric system it does seem more logical in all areas except maybe weight and liquid measurement. Having millimetres has to be easier than fractions even though I still use them occasionally and 100 pence to a pound is better than 12 pennies to a shilling or 240 pennies to a pound and the decimal system works better with percentages. Having grown up pre decimal and remembering as a kid what you could buy for sixpence and now you dont get much for a tenner makes you realise just how the cost of things has got out of all proportion.

 

[Adam W.]

Where possible I use straight edges, rulers and stops along with a woodpeckers story stick

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/woodpeckers-story-stick-pro-96-dual-scale/
Once you have the stops located then much easier to transfer measurements otherwise you can introduce errors on each measurement taken and on applying to the workpiece. Also work from a single datum otherwise you can end up with accumulated errors.

Also lets not forget our eyesight in all of this, using stops removes eyesight issues as well as we get older.

Someone will probably be along shortly to inform you that you don't need such shiny things.

 

[XTiffy]

And then the discussion on "need" versus "want" !!