Routing cutting board handles

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ozzpoz

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Lancaster ,
Hello. I've made 2 or 3 boards and this time decided to put some grooves in the ends for handles.
In using a router table set up with stops and I'll be lowering it onto a 1/4 cove bit.
I've had a practice on some scrap bits , taking very shallow passss and I'm getting burns in the ends.
I'll add a pic. I've had a go at sanding with paper and a dowel but they didn't shift.
I think I'm feeding the right speed when making the cut it's just the initial drop in.
Could this be fixed with slowing down or speeding up the router. I think I was on setting 3 out of 6.
Thanks.
 

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Use a smaller cutter with similar profile, this will enable you to run around the cut rather than having to stop at the ends.
You will just need a template for a bushing or use a bearing.
And/or cut a slot out of the centre with a straight bit smaller than the full width first which will enable the chips to escape on the second profiling cut.

If using the same cutter then do it in a plunge router instead of the table so you can plunge to full depth over a long run like a shallow ramp to prevent the burning.
 
Dull cutter, in all probability
It shouldn't be. I've never used this one. Only a cheap one though. It's from a little trend set.

Use a smaller cutter with similar profile, this will enable you to run around the cut rather than having to stop at the ends.
You will just need a template for a bushing or use a bearing.
And/or cut a slot out of the centre with a straight bit smaller than the full width first which will enable the chips to escape on the second profiling cut.

If using the same cutter then do it in a plunge router instead of the table so you can plunge to full depth over a long run like a shallow ramp to prevent the burning.
Thanks. It's the only cove bit I have at the moment and my hand held router doesn't plunge so I'll try cutting a slot first as you suggested. I'll have another practice on some scrap tomorrow.
Thanks.
 
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