Routing 20mm dog holes

[Spectric]

So far I have used the Parf system and the one from CNC designs but when it comes to routing a nice fit 20mm hole would a bigger heavier router deliver better results than a lightweight trim router with a 1/4 bit? I am thinking that in this synario the weight might be on your side. If you use a 3/8 or 8mm collet then you could also use a 20mm hinge boring bit like this, Hinge Boring
which is similar to the one used in the parf system rather than a 20mm two flute cutter.

 

[TomW]

Why not use a forstner bit in drill?

 

[Bingy man]

Or the UJK parf drill ( bit expensive tho )

 

[Bingy man]

Or the UJK parf drill ( bit expensive tho )

 

[Droogs]

or just spade bits or augers in a drill with a guide

 

[TRITON]

or just spade bits or augers in a drill with a guide

I'd opt for auger rather than spade, spade is pretty good at causing surface breakout. Though with anything, the gig is going to be ensuring its 100% square to the top.

After my inquiry on this, im opting to buy the full kit. Bit of an outlay, but as has been pointed out its a one off and the benefits of being able to reproduce more tops or even custom layouts are well worth the cost.

 

[Spectric]

After my inquiry on this, im opting to buy the full kit. Bit of an outlay,

What kit are you refering to?

 

[Spectric]

Why not use a forstner bit in drill?

Or the UJK parf drill ( bit expensive tho )

or just spade bits or augers in a drill with a guide

I have the Parf system but I think making these 20mm holes will be quicker and more accurate using a plunge router, with the Parf system I have found you get better holes when the drilling jig is clamped which suggest that there is the possibility of some movement. This is why I then questioned whether a heavier router would be better than a lighter 1/4 trim router as weight can add to stability.

 

[Jameshow]

Router will have a much higher RPM thus giving a smoother cut?

I bit that cuts the edge of the hole first will give a better cut.

 

[Spectric]

I bit that cuts the edge of the hole first will give a better cut.

So on that basis this type of cutter would be better?

 

[rogxwhit]

Seems to me that the answer is to forget about drilling in this context unless you have a method of ensuring 90 degrees. If you have - tell us about it! A wee drill bush is hardly up to the task. A plunge router though has the perpendicular reference built in for the full depth of its stroke, and my preference would be to use a jig that allows a single plunge with a 20mm cutter.

 

[bertterbo]

This might give some insight into the different methods

 

[TRITON]

What kit are you refering to?

The one you have - the parf kit.
Long straight ruler things, an alloy thing with holes in it, forstner bit. That kit.

 

[Spectric]

The one you have - the parf kit.

Yes it is expensive but does deliver, if you are not in a rush then it might be worth waiting to see what @petermillard has coming through the pipeline.

 

[MikeK]

My experience with the Parf II Guide Kit has been great. I used the "tap, tap, tap" method for drilling the 3mm pilot holes and the 20mm dog holes for each of the 200 holes in my worktop. The only time I used any clamps was when I secured the steel rule to the top for the first ten pilot holes. After that, I used only the alignment pins and dogs.

I didn't have the much lighter Festool CXS drill at the time and used my heavier Bosch GSR 18 VE drill. When I got tired, I took a break. I did not have any alignment problems with the bushings in the kit. My only disappointment was the blowout on the bottom of some of the 20mm holes because I didn't think to use a backer board. Had I used a backer board, I would be able to flip the top over when it is no longer serviceable. I can still use the other side, but will have to dress up the rough edges.

 

[Spectric]

@MikeK I can remember the speed at which you drilled those holes, and yes backer boards or even a sheet of PIR insulation board helps.

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

A big plus 1 for the Parf 2 and the included drill bit
I make a new MFT Top about every 2 years just take your time and take a break when the drill gets too heavy I brad nail scraps of MDF on the rear to ease the breakout issues I haven't had any issues with the hole being out of vertical.
The type of MDF will also have an effect on the finish and ease of drilling a lot of it machines like compressed cardboard you will find if you pay a bit more then it will be money well spent I tend to go for Medite Moisture Resistant 18mm
One of the big pluses with the Parf 2 and drill bit is the ease and conveyance I make a lot of small to medium batch items in my workshop and frequently make a jig or location board with a few dog holes in and a range of cam or toggle clamps
D

 

[Spectric]

and a range of cam or toggle clamps

Take a look at Microjig matchfit, really versatile and easy to make all sorts of fences, jigs etc. They can even make a Festool MFT more versatile.

 

[TRITON]

This might give some insight into the different methods

Straight away i didnt like the look of the CNC pro jig. It might have been the quickest, but that alloy wrap looks too flimsy, and i can see it catching the edge of the jig and getting ripped or somehow messed up. Plus i dont really see the need for 'adjusting' the holes. That maybe reflects more on their design being sloppy than with the other 2.

Trend 'kitchen jig' style. Well we all know kitchen jigs and its a tried and tested thing, so its bound to be robust, though it will wear, as kitchen jigs do. Personally Ive only currently got the big Triton router which doesn't take guide bushings, and the smaller Makita RTO700 on a plunge base, but maybe it would need centering, so perhaps a bit of a fiddle setting it up. Router is cleaner, but i wouldn't mind a bit of clean up, part and parcel really.

Which leaves the Parf guide mk2. It might be slower, but i think its accuracy coupled with the ability to produce a more suited custom lay out probably puts it at the top of the scale. And the chap that invented it is a clever guy, whereas with the others maybe theres room in there for user error, especially the CNC pro.

All in all, i think I'll stick with my first choice of the Parf mk2.

 

[Spectric]

All in all, i think I'll stick with my first choice of the Parf mk2.

Out of the current offerings the Parf is the best cost effective option, but who knows what Mr Millard has waiting in the wings, it could be something that changes everything and even though I have the Parf system I really want something that uses a router rather than a drill.

If you look at the thread " Lets have a Parf 3 " you will see that if you have machining facilities then it is easy to make a simple jig that uses the 3mm Parf location holes but a router for cutting the 20mm holes.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/lets-have-a-parf-3.137657/