Routers?

[Alan Smith]

Yup, I have got the right section. What I'd like to know about is the non electric type, specifically Record 71. Anyone still use these? I picked up a nice complete one with a view to using it for cleaning up sinks for hinges and lock plates etc. Would like to hear if anyone has any views or tips. Playing around with it I suspect it may well turn out to be a useful bit of kit.

 

[Philly]

Alan
Yup - I use mine every now and then. Very useful little tool (as well as its smaller brother the #271)
I use mine on site when chopping in hinges (if i can't use my powered router) and it also comes in handy for trimming tenons and half lap joints.
Sharpening the blades can be "interesting" :lol:
Best regards
Philly

 

[bugbear]

Alan
Yup - I use mine every now and then. Very useful little tool (as well as its smaller brother the #271)
I use mine on site when chopping in hinges (if i can't use my powered router) and it also comes in handy for trimming tenons and half lap joints.
Sharpening the blades can be "interesting" :lol:
Best regards
Philly

I think the #271 is actually more useful.

And I don't see the problem with sharpening...

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tour. ... pening_jig

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 846&#38846

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

BB

I'd love to see your method of sharpening router plane irons.

What I do is grind out a hollow with a Dremel. After this it is simple, and quick, to hone a razor sharp edge on waterstones.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Alan Smith]

Great stuff guys, just the sort of pointers I was looking for. I found in my pile of books a Planecraft which has a good chapter on routers trouble is It has reminded me that it would be a good idea to get hold of a multi plane. Anyone know of a 405 or similar loooking for a working home?

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Apart from groove bottoms, hardware mortices and tenons, I also use my routers for inlay (eg scratch plates).

For some stuff, a small router is a good idea too - I prefer a Record 722 to a Stanley 271 - I find the bit clamping mechanism better. (Once I've properly steeled myself, my 271 will be going to ebay as part of a toolchest rationalisation exercise)

Also, additional bits can be readily made from allan keys, and scratch bits made from round stock can be really handy for fine work (picked these tips up from one of the folks who've already replied (sorry, can't remember for sure which of you - but thank you anyway))

Cheers
Steve

 

[Paul Chapman]

Anyone know of a 405 or similar loooking for a working home?

PFT have a very nice one at the moment, but don't know whether you want to pay that much http://www.pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/new-woodwork.htm (scroll down a bit).

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[jonbikebod]

I use my old Record a lot. I seem to end up hanging a lot of doors. So I use mine a lot for hinge and lock rebates.
The other thing I think they are brilliant at is the cheeks of tenons. Assuming you cut your mortices with a machine of some sort it is easy when trimming the cheeks of the tenons by other methods to take the cheek and (and vital long grain glue area) off-planar with the result the frame is inclined to twist. Clamping the rail to the bench and an off-cut adjacent to act as a bearing surface for the sole allows you to very accurately trim the cheeks for a perfect fit that will always be in the same plane as the rails. I think I originally read this invaluable tip in Joyce and I know it also appears in other publications.
Jon.
Sorry Philly, I should have read your mail more carefully, you had already said this.

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

Its funny how new gizmos keep coming out each week, when alot of the tools that were stopped production way back in the 40's or so are probably far handier than the new ideas that manufacturers are coming up with.

 

[bugbear]

BB

I'd love to see your method of sharpening router plane irons.

Err... here?


http://www.geocities.com/plybench/tour. ... pening_jig

(near enough, anyway)

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

For some stuff, a small router is a good idea too - I prefer a Record 722 to a Stanley 271 - I find the bit clamping mechanism better.

Oh yes indeed....

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/record.html#722

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi BB

Thanks for the link. Actually, I have seen this a few times before but I think that the process escaped me. I appaud your ingenuity - definity worthy of a Heath Robinson Award.

I do think that my freehand method is easier. The thing is that every recommendation (including my own in the past) have treated the router irons as flat bevels. What is needed is to see them as hollowed bevels, thus:

That one I got a tad carried away with the Dremel. It is a 1/4" iron and on a fixed base, so I had to take the Dremel to the bevel. Still, no harm done and the hollow will last a long time.

On this one, a 1/2" iron that is removable (Veritas), I was able to grind the hollow on a Tormek/

Here is the iron placed flat on a waterstone.

And here it is being honed in a side-to-side direction:

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

Hi BB

Thanks for the link. Actually, I have seen this a few times before but I think that the process escaped me. I appaud your ingenuity - definity worthy of a Heath Robinson Award.

I do think that my freehand method is easier. The thing is that every recommendation (including my own in the past) have treated the router irons as flat bevels. What is needed is to see them as hollowed bevels, thus:

I've alway been slightly confused by people's thinking that hollow bevels register better on the stone (for freehanding) than flat bevels. That makes no sense.

What does make sense is that a hollow bevel acts (a lot like...) double bevel, reducing the area to be honed, and thus speeding up the process.

The other thing which may make hollow bevels appear better for freehanding is that the odd "foul stroke" which would dub a flat bevel, will NOT remove a hollow bevel.

When freehanding a flat surface, removing the corners is very quick, since you suddenly transition from working a large (ish) area on the abrasive (the flat) to work a tiny area (the corner). The tiny area is thus removed very quickly indeed, so dubbing can occur even if most strokes are fair, not foul.

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

BB

I hone flat bevels too, such as those on my Japanese chisels. So I am familiar with the differences in honing flat verses hollowed bevels.

When freehand honing flat bevels, one has to work at avoiding rounding a face. To do this it is important to work the bevel is all directions of the compass.

With hollow bevels, there is a much more stable registration of the bevel on the stone. In addition, the larger the hollow (to the point that it reaches to the edge of the bevel), the quicker it is to hone. All that is needed at that point is a true microbevel (rather than a secondary bevel). Here is an example:

The hollow does two things, it speeds up honing (as you mentioned) and it makes the bevel more stable when freehanding. In the latter regard, a hollow grind is more stable than a flat bevel as any "bump" (round) on a flat bevel will destabilise it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

The hollow does two things, it speeds up honing (as you mentioned) and it makes the bevel more stable when freehanding. In the latter regard, a hollow grind is more stable than a flat bevel as any "bump" (round) on a flat bevel will destabilise it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Yes; as I said, one foul stroke will mess up a flat bevel pretty badly, whereas removing a hollow takes considerable work.

BugBear