Router table - Mdf and Ply - Laminate both sides?

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Bodone

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Hello all,

building new router table and will be using 15mm Mdf as top bonded to an 18 mm plywood sheet (900x600), with Aly router plate and Triton tra001.

I‘m laminating the top surface, but will I need to laminate the bottom of the ply sheet to stop bowing?

Thanks all.
 
Yes its recommended to laminate both top and bottom to prevent sagging. Someone I know only did one side of their router table top and within a year they had to replace it.
 
If laminating the top why would you use 15mm MDF why not use 2 X 18mm plywood much stronger and less likely to bow.

I could be wrong of course...

Cheers James
 
Is there any more advice/opinions on this ? I don't want to steal this thread from bodone, but I'm planning on building a router table using 2 layers 18mm ply for the top no MDF or laminate. I will be making the table around a big old Elu mof 177. In my mind it shoud be fine, but I haven't even used a router table before let alone build one.
Thanks Tony
 
Should be fine if using decent hardwood ply that you can seal with a poly vanish if something simalar. Make the board grain go the same way as your work piece grain.

You could use a bit of buffalo board which is has a laminate both sides you might find a cheap offcut some where.

Cheers James
 
Is there any more advice/opinions on this ? I don't want to steal this thread from bodone, but I'm planning on building a router table using 2 layers 18mm ply for the top no MDF or laminate. I will be making the table around a big old Elu mof 177. In my mind it shoud be fine, but I haven't even used a router table before let alone build one.
Thanks Tony
Not sure what size of table you have in mind but if your doing something like 900x600mm maybe consider an offcut of laminate kitchen worktop.
 
Not sure what size of table you have in mind but if your doing something like 900x600mm maybe consider an offcut of laminate kitchen worktop.
It's ended up 865 x 600. I've glued and screwed the ply together and I had an offcut of some 2.5mm plastic coated aluminium sheet which I doubled up and I'm going to glue them together and then screw it to the ply, I had to stop as I couldn't find a large enough counter sink bit for the 16mm head counter sink screws. I'm searching around bow for an aluminium insert and t track that isn't going to cost the earth
 

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Hello all,

thanks for responses. MDF on ply, reading posts seems better to sit router plate into MDF and I only have a small sheet of Mdf available.

Looks like both sides then, I’ve a couple of sheets of Formica I plan to use with pva. I’ll be edging it with hardwood so I’ve something substantial to fasten the jessem fence guide to.
 
I made a new router table top out of a solid wood kitchen top, but as i use this for assembly it might get glue on it. So i want to put a formica/laminate top on it. I have seen a sheet i can get but i am also looking for offcuts of 0.8mm, anyone know of where i can find these?
 
I made one with 2x18mm of MDF and PVC on the top, nothing on the underside and it stayed flat.
I often find ply less flat than MDF
Aidan
 
It's ended up 865 x 600. I've glued and screwed the ply together and I had an offcut of some 2.5mm plastic coated aluminium sheet which I doubled up and I'm going to glue them together and then screw it to the ply, I had to stop as I couldn't find a large enough counter sink bit for the 16mm head counter sink screws. I'm searching around bow for an aluminium insert and t track that isn't going to cost the earth
Is there a reason you decided to go so big on your table size? I am limited on space being confined to a single garage. My plan is to build the router table into my work bench. Just after some information on ideal dimensions around the router cutter.
 
Is there a reason you decided to go so big on your table size? I am limited on space being confined to a single garage. My plan is to build the router table into my work bench. Just after some information on ideal dimensions around the router cutter.
It ended up being that size as I wanted to use up some off cuts. No other reason really, but I am glad it's on the larger size as it made running some longe lengths of skirting easier and more accurate
 
It ended up being that size as I wanted to use up some off cuts. No other reason really, but I am glad it's on the larger size as it made running some longe lengths of skirting easier and more accurate
The joys of a sizeable workshop Im sure ;)
Sounds like embedding it into my worktable to raise during infrequent use would be ideal then.
 
My workshop isn't very big at all, 3.5 x 4.0m, but I do have the added benefit if being able to move stuff out into the garden ( weather permitting ).
 
Sounds like embedding it into my worktable to raise during infrequent use would be ideal then.
That is the best solution if you are limited on space, making the workbench multifunctional. I have been thinking about space in my work area recently, playing the game of adding shelves and moving things around in the hope they somehow take up less space. One idea is sell the router table to give instant space and then new bench with recessed Jessem router plate for routing or a blank insert when not in use. This would mean storing the router so just fully retracting and fitting router ring with no hole would be more sensable. The other thing is that with a movable router table you can move it to do long runs of moulding and such, need to bear this in mind with it in a workbench. I would also use the Incra positioner on a Benchdogs plate so the fence is both precise and easily removed when not in use.
 
Put your
That is the best solution if you are limited on space, making the workbench multifunctional. I have been thinking about space in my work area recently, playing the game of adding shelves and moving things around in the hope they somehow take up less space. One idea is sell the router table to give instant space and then new bench with recessed Jessem router plate for routing or a blank insert when not in use. This would mean storing the router so just fully retracting and fitting router ring with no hole would be more sensable. The other thing is that with a movable router table you can move it to do long runs of moulding and such, need to bear this in mind with it in a workbench. I would also use the Incra positioner on a Benchdogs plate so the fence is both precise and easily removed when not in use.
Workbench with collapsible wheels is my plan
I will have to look into the incra positioner and plate - it would certainly make for a more professional set-up.
I purchased a bargain 2015 Makita 1/2" plunge router which I had penned for this role.
 

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