Router table and fence- need your help

[rileytoolworks]

Hi all. Just a few pics to show you what I've got in mind for my new router table. Any advice would be appreciated...
It'll be on lockable castors (not shown), and have T-slots in the top for the fence to fix down to via the rear most bristol levers.
There is a sub base for the fence, the movement for which is controlled by a threaded rod and large knob running through the block at the back. I've not got round to drawing that yet...

(Edited to update picture....)

 

[wizer]

I like the design a lot.

Have you seen Pat Warner's website?

 

[rileytoolworks]

No, I'm not familiar with that site. I'll check it out.
For the past two years I've been using a Triton in a table, and although it's an excellent router, I'm getting annoyed with having to reach under the table to adjust the height.
Now, being a tight-ass, I'm not going to fork out for a lifting mechanism so I'm toying with the idea of using a handwheel mounted on the front of the unit, connected to the Tritons fine height adjuster via a 90 degree joint.
The router is dedicated to the table so I don't mind 'butchering' it a little...

 

[Steve Maskery]

The type of fence you describe is exactly what I have on my version of Norm's table. It's a good modification of the original. My tip would be not to use a knob for the fence adjustment, use a Bristol lever. The lever acts as a pointer which makes fine adjustment that much easier to keep track of.
S

 

[Chems]

Pats sites has tons of good ideas, I'll be making my second router table in the future, just stole a few gooduns!

Riley, we can start a Northampton division now there are 2 of us!

 

[Anonymous]

Riley

Pat Warner has also published a couple fo good books on routers and jigs

 

[rileytoolworks]

Thanks for the feedback. Anyone got any thoughts about the height adjustment?
I'm being spoiled at work with a super accurate spindle moulder, making me jealous!
Chems, whereabouts are you then?

 

[Chems]

In a village a little outside of Daventry. Whereabouts are you?

 

[rileytoolworks]

Hi Chems. I'm in Kettering (for my sins!). I used to build narrowboats in Weedon! Small world!
What line of work are you in?

 

[rileytoolworks]

Steve, do you have any pictures of your fence?

 

[compo]

Hey Riley

How about using a car scissor jack for the height adjuster? You'll need to attach it to the router somehow and find a way to secure the crank handle so it doesn't vibrate, but that should be easy enough.

Nice fence, btw

 

[Chems]

Im in the fire line of work.

Kettering isnt so bad at all, could be worse, could be in corby! I take it you work in the wood industry?

 

[rileytoolworks]

Hi chems. You mean you're a firefighter, or an arsonist?!
Yes, I work for a bespoke furniture company, specialising in kitchens.
I used to build narrow boats, and I have to say, as job satisfaction goes, it was tops...
Compo, thanks for the idea. Ive heard of that before. I just wonder what the accuracy would be like? I'm toying with the idea of saving up for a 'router raizer'.
Has anyone got or used one of these?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Riley

This is mone:

A couple of tips:
Make sure that the cutout around the cutter haseasy edges, so that sawdust does not get trapped - you want it flying up, up and away, nit getting stuck in corners.
Be careful where you put knobs and levers. Mine has a couple of extraneous holes because I first put them in daft places.

Cheers
Steve

 

[rileytoolworks]

Thanks Steve. That's a solid looking fence.
What kind of accuarcy can you achieve with the threaded adjuster? What tpi is it? (I'm presuming it's threaded stud).

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's a length of M6, so one rev is 1.0mm.
The Bristol lever makes it easy to see how far I've turned. Thinking of a clock, 6 mins is 0.1mm. Fine enough for me.
S

 

[rileytoolworks]

Thanks Steve. I like the fact you've made it look good too.
Where I work, people mock me for making my jigs functional and good looking!

 

[rileytoolworks]

Steve.
Sorry to pick your brains. Are those wooden t-tracks on the backs of your sliding fences?

 

[Steve Maskery]

The upper fence slides over the lower fence on diamond-shaped keys.

The lower fence is adjusted coarsely over the table with slots through the table, and Bristol levers above with sliding nuts below.

If I were making it again I'd use ally t-track instead of the slots, but only because the the slots allow sawdust to drop through into my top drawer, which holds spanners and stuff.

I have a horizontal router mounted on the left side of the cabinet. I don't use it often, but when I need it, it's a godsend. See Bill Hylton's book Router Magic.

Cheers
steve

 

[rileytoolworks]

Wow. Thanks for the concise answers.