router collets and extensions.

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Just has an experience where my router cutter, set up the table slipped back inside the collet. There was no damage and I always use as much guarding and feather boards as I can.
The cutter shank was tight in the router. When I took it out and examined it there wasn't any scoring inside the collet but it was very shiny.
I am changing the collet and have ordered a new one. Ron Fox stated that you just needed to 'NIP' up a collet, which may have been the case six years ago but not over the last six months or so.
Do you guys change your collets on a regular basis, or not at all?
While I'm on the subject, I was considering getting a collet extension for the router. They seem to be popular, especially for that added reach when working on the router table.

I was wondering if folk on here religiously change their router collets, and if anyone uses, or has in place all the time an extension, and if you consider them safe?

Thanks.
 
Its always recommended to keep your collets clean so they seat the shanks properly but I've never had to replace one myself?? Those extensions are OK for added reach but make sure you seat the shank nice and deep so there's plenty of grip and the extension may carry a limit in both router speed and max cutter diameter. Read and observe those limits carefully. You don't want to put an 80mm panel raising cutter in one for example.
 
Ohhh heavens, no!!! I was just thinking about straight cutters, general cutters.
That would scare the ******* out of me!
 
The ER series of engineering collets are very good for gripping. At least one of the extensions use ER collets and if you should ever need to replace it, the collets are reasonably priced because they are so widely used in engineering.
 
Are you by any chance using a 1/4" or 1/2" router collet with a metric 6mm or 12mm shaft router bit? Metric shafted cutters will be loose in imperial collets.
 
MMUK
No that is not the case. I have imperial and metric collets and always run the mic over the shank even though the cutters go back in their respective Wealden cases which have the shank dia marked on the outside.
I sometimes wonder if some of the larger cutters that require a full cut to be taken in one go, and have the smaller shanks ie 1/4 inch, do not have enough gripping area to ensure they won't work loose?.
I've decided to change these as I go along and buy the larger shanks, which should help.
 

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