roof flashing problems.. (SORTED!)

[Higon]

...snip

The issue is that the roof flashing around the chimneys refusing to conform to the shape of the roof tiles...



This problem has been sorted after a quick call to the company who make them.

 

[rhrwilliams]

If the flashing is sheet metal that's not going to bend round contours of peg tiles very well .

Additionally , peg tiles are a bigger to fit back in if you take them out (as you can't get to the fixing )

Can you do it in lead, that's what should be used on a roof like that ? http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burn ... hings.html

 

[Ed Bray]

Second the use of lead. When I did a Plumbing (Pb) course back in the mid 90s, part of the syllabus was to make lead flashings and roof fitments from scratch, cutting, joining and beating lead into shape. I wasn't particularly good at it but it did give me an appreciation of what to do.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - you haven't mentioned what type of flue pipe you're using (insulated with a double skin would be my preference), but I would take extreme care that the flue pipe doesn't get too close to any combustible material (e.g. wood/sarking felt) I see from your photo that you're pretty close to a rafter for example. I'm fairly sure that there are rules in the Building Regs - e.g. Approved Docs B and J, as well as HETAS rules) re. separation of flue pipes from combustible materials and you may find it useful to use some glass-reinforced board e.g. glasroc to form a collar around the pipe as it passes up through the roof. I second/third the lead flashing option. Cheers, W2S

 

[blackrodd]

Hi - you haven't mentioned what type of flue pipe you're using (insulated with a double skin would be my preference), but I would take extreme care that the flue pipe doesn't get too close to any combustible material (e.g. wood/sarking felt) I see from your photo that you're pretty close to a rafter for example. I'm fairly sure that there are rules in the Building Regs - e.g. Approved Docs B and J, as well as HETAS rules) re. separation of flue pipes from combustible materials and you may find it useful to use some glass-reinforced board e.g. glasroc to form a collar around the pipe as it passes up through the roof. I second/third the lead flashing option. Cheers, W2S

+1 As above Rodders

 

[Higon]

Hi - you haven't mentioned what type of flue pipe you're using (insulated with a double skin would be my preference), but I would take extreme care that the flue pipe doesn't get too close to any combustible material (e.g. wood/sarking felt) I see from your photo that you're pretty close to a rafter for example. I'm fairly sure that there are rules in the Building Regs - e.g. Approved Docs B and J, as well as HETAS rules) re. separation of flue pipes from combustible materials and you may find it useful to use some glass-reinforced board e.g. glasroc to form a collar around the pipe as it passes up through the roof. I second/third the lead flashing option. Cheers, W2S

The research and reading list for this has been extensive on the varying legislation involved! Its taken longer to research it than its taken to select, collect and fit the various components.

Although, as it is not a 'house' where it is being installed, there appears to be a grey fog surrounding the relevant legislation that is applicable. A distributor of chimneys advised me that the legislation I quoted him, did not apply as it was to be installed in an outbuilding.

I also independently checked that opinion with a current HETAS engineer who gave me a completely different answer (but did advise on the size, material and quantity of screws required at each junction!)

Perhaps you could direct me to the specific documentation of which you refer for outbuildings? Certainly the fireboard, for the purposes of the national Building Regulations, is designated a ‘material of limited combustibility’ (Approved Document B). The surfaces of Gyproc FireLine are designated Class 0 (for the purposes of national Building Regulations). I really could have done without knowing that information and dont even get me started on the HETAS guide (2014).

I'm content that if I can fix the hole in the roof, I'm good to go and ALL relevant legislation has been exceeded even the no combustable materials within 50mm of twinwall flues as defined in BS 4543-1!

(There are more pics / details on the 'Game of workshop musical chairs' thread.)

So back to the question. As I'm in for about £90 on this flashing, I'd like to get it to work before investing further in a lead solution! The manufacturers suggest double sided tape to hold it in place! Nah, not going to work with these manky tiles ! lol The flashing is this one (although not purchased from this supplier), pure aluminium apparently, it is lead like in its malleability;
http://www.sunburstfireplaces.co.uk...5-450mm-11-18-inch-masterflash-high-temp.html

Thanks.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi again - sorry, I somehow failed to register that you'd already bought the ali flashing. My experience is that there's no substitute for lead when it comes to malleability for bossing/dressing the material round tiles etc. (If you break one of the existing tiles you can use a more modern one to replace it - you may need to de-nib it to get it to hang right). I share your pain re. the various badly written regs.! especially on a subject that really matters (safety). For fixing, the normal way would be one or two copper/stainless nails along the top edge of the flashing into a tiling batten with a welt at the top. The detail is shown (not very clearly) on the British Lead Mills website Cheers W2S

 

[blackrodd]

Stoves on line will show what you how the flashing fits, as you probably know any way.
Those tiles look like rosemary's, very brittle.
I suggest you get some scrap timber and measure up and simulate the tile arrangement using suitably sized timber or ply.
Use this to beat or bend to the steps and shapes required.
Carefully tease the flashing into place
I would have used a twin wall flue and lead flashing personally, for a far better job.
I would have thought that whatever tools and machinery you have invested time, effort, and cash in collecting together, would be more deserving than the regs for an outbuilding.
Regards Rodders

 

[Higon]

Hi again - sorry, I somehow failed to register that you'd already bought the ali flashing. My experience is that there's no substitute for lead when it comes to malleability for bossing/dressing the material round tiles etc. (If you break one of the existing tiles you can use a more modern one to replace it - you may need to de-nib it to get it to hang right). I share your pain re. the various badly written regs.! especially on a subject that really matters (safety). For fixing, the normal way would be one or two copper/stainless nails along the top edge of the flashing into a tiling batten with a welt at the top. The detail is shown (not very clearly) on the British Lead Mills website Cheers W2S

Thanks W2S, that lead mills website was most helpful, I'll let you know how it goes.

No apology necessary about about registering I'd already bought the flashing. I got a very helpful PM too that I'll be incorporating into the fix!

The lead flashing looks to run at about £150 for the size I need, so I am motivated to get this one to work now I'm stuck with it, hence the original question.