Riving knife pain

[DiscoStu]

I bought a TS200 from Axi and it's good apart from the Riving knife isn't inline with the blade. I thought it was a dodgy knife so I spoke to axminster who sent me a new one. I fitted it today and have the same issue. When cutting, everything moves smoothly until it gets to the Riving knife and then I have to really push to get the wood through. You also see the Riving knife jump to the left when the wood gets to it. I can see it's not in line with the blade.

Any ideas what I can do?

 

[heimlaga]

This means that either the saw blade or the riving knife is out of alignment. I am pretty sure this can be fixed by either filing or shimming cartain parts but on a new saw this should not be a problem.
If the saw is new I think Axminster should fix it at their cost.

 

[DiscoStu]

It's about 6 months old but they sent new parts in Nov so I've only just fitted the new Riving knife. It appears that the Riving knife is angled to the right (tilted towards the fence) and possibly also twisted slightly towards the fence as well. It does mean that when cutting the wood gets bound up between the fence and the blade / knife.

I guess I'm really asking if this can and should be adjusted or if I should contact Axminster again.

 

[Baldhead]

Tell axminster it's not cutting right and you want a replacement.

Baldhead

 

[DiscoStu]

I am concerned about safety as I don't like the idea of the wood being stuck next to the blade.

 

[Doug B]

I have to really push to get the wood through.

You certainly don't want to be using excessive force to get the wood through, that's a recipe for disaster when it's your hands advancing towards a spinning blade.

+ 1 for returning it.

 

[Rhossydd]

It's not exactly clear what your problem is here.
Is the RK off set to one side of the blade, but parallel ?
Is the RK at an angle to the blade ? If so in what axis(s)
If there is an error, how big is it ?

Are you sure that the correct washers are in place around the knife's mounting points ?

 

[devonwoody]

Or are you using the correct blade (re kerf dims. to knife dims,)?

A very thin type blade means the knife is in control.

 

[DiscoStu]

I think the RK is out in two planes. If I get down level with the table top and look down the blade I can see that the top of the RK is about 5mm to the right of the blade. When I use the saw I find that wood binds between the RK and the fence so that suggests to me that is is also out left to right as well as top to bottom. However when I look from above it appears to be parallel with the blade. I'll take more of a look today. I just wanted to check that there wasn't some adjustment screw that I needed to tweak.

 

[DiscoStu]

I'm using the blade and RK supplied. The RK looks slightly wider than the kerf on the blade which is what I would expect?

 

[marcros]

If you have a piece of wood that is parallel on the 2 long sides, clamp it using the fence between the blade and fence just prior to it hitting the knife, as if you had cut it in that position (saw off!). You will soon see then what is happening with the knife during the cut and whether the wood would be able to continue of would hit the knife.

The riving knife should be thicker than the blade body but less than the kerf. If it is thicker than the kerf, it cannot physically go through. It should be flat- check with a straight edge, and the leading edge should have a slight chamfer/easing. You may end up with a collection of riving knives to suit different blades but they are simple enough to make.

 

[Rhossydd]

If I get down level with the table top and look down the blade

Don't rely on your eyes, get a straight edge (a steel ruler will do) on it so you can quantify the error. This will help Axminster, and us, to help you.

I can see that the top of the RK is about 5mm to the right of the blade.

Errors as great as 5mm are definitely wrong.
Is the blade at 90deg ? Is the RK ? Is the RK a perfectly flat plane (ie take it out and lie it on the table to check).

 

[Steve Maskery]

5mm is an astronomical unit!
If the RK is thicker than the kerf the blade actually cuts it is the wrong RK for the blade.
A standard 3.2mm blade (1/8") should have a 3mm RK. If the blade is thin-kerf, at, say, 2.8mm, then the 3mm RK will be too fat for the job.

Sorry, I can't help on the alignment issue, I'm not that familiar with that particular saw.

 

[Chrispy]

You say the RK is 5mm to the right of the blade, are you sure the blade is in the right place? take it out and check make sure there isn't a washer or bush in there that shouldn't be and make sure the blade is seated properly.

 

[marcros]

Likewise the knife- does it simply need a washer to move it over?

 

[Walney Col]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[Rhossydd]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

True, but shooting helpful photos for this sort of issue isn't an easy task.

 

[monkeybiter]

Just looked at the manual online from Ax', there should be a rectangular plate either side of the knife, this sandwich is then bolted directly to the larger plate which 'carries' the blade shaft. There should be a washer on each bolt, betwen the bolt head and the first plate.
Do you have both plates in place, one either side?

[Of course the manual could refer to an earlier/later model than yours]

 

[DiscoStu]

I've taken some measurements and photos today. I'll try and post them in a bit.

 

[blackrodd]

Likewise the knife- does it simply need a washer to move it over?

I suggest that you firstly need to see if there is a washer missing from the saw blade.
Secondly, see the riving knife set up, both of these are vital, and you should carefully check you're owner's or user manual, and check the existing washers and set up are correct, and ensure that the recent parts purchased are correct for the saw.
See if there is a pdf on Google, or similar.
Using a good quality parallel straight edge take pics and contact the seller, fully showing the problem.
Regards Rodders