Review of Cambered roller for Veritas Mk II

[Philly]

Hi Folks
I posted this in the reviews section but it seems to of been un-noticed. Might be of more use to the friendly hand tools folk :wink:
Camber Roller Review
Cheers
Philly

 

[JesseM]

Hi Folks
I posted this in the reviews section but it seems to of been un-noticed. Might be of more use to the friendly hand tools folk :wink:
Camber Roller Review
Cheers
Philly [/url]

Great review! I got mine a couple of weeks ago and got to try it this weekend. I've only tried it on my smoother thus far and will try it on my scrub soon. I swapped out to the cambered roller only after I already worked on the microbevel and then just touched up the corners. But in retrospect I think the way you did it makes more sense.

 

[MikeW]

Hey Philly!

Good write-up. Thanks for posting the link--I don't hit all the forums except when there's time.

Just wanted to add that the cambered roller isn't fool-proof. If one has an absolute camber--rounded profile--such as with a round plane from an H&R set, fluting/cove planes, or like the blades for my pattern maker's planes, care must still be taken to use fluid motion once the profile is correct. Else one will create flats or alter the profile to such an extent that the profile of the blade doesn't match the soles.

Take care, Mike

 

[Philly]

Jesse
Give it try-it's pretty straightforward. It's all in where you put the pressure.
Mike
You're right, of course. You can mess up it you try hard enough :lol:
I found as long as you check for the wire edge as you go you know you are working the whole edge.
Cheers
Philly

 

[David C]

Paul,

metal is generally removed where finger pressure is applied.

The slight difficulty is getting a straight edged blade to the "point of tipping", this requires strong nerves or as an aternative, a thin strip of plastic or metal, we even used card.....(till it turned to mush) to deliberately induce a twist relative to stone surface.

Philly, Great review,

If it feels like an eclipse side clamping type jig, why not use one? I wrote about the the barrel roller, which used to exist on an old guide, some time ago. Wondering what the barrel extra will cost? Far eastern eclipse copy approx £5.50.

Nay, seriously, an excellent add on, if you have the Veritas.
Pity about the less than secure clamping mechanism. However it is one of the first (wide roller jigs) that registers blades from the correct side. ie the back, which is good.

Shortening projection in an eclipse type, by two or three mm, may take a few seconds longer than, rotating the roller cam, which is a nice feature.

My general feeling is that no guide is perfect, yet.... They all have their pros and cons.

Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[JesseM]

Paul,
Pity about the less than secure clamping mechanism. However it is one of the first (wide roller jigs) that registers blades from the correct side. ie the back, which is good.

I noticed this the first time I tried to sharpen one of my polished 2 cherries. No matter how tight I secured it, it moved around. I ended up using a small strip of wet/dry 150 sandpaper attached to the registration part to increase the friction between it and the blade. I have not had any slippages yet. I may be adding a degree or so to the angle, but as long as I consistently use it, it should be okay.

I think the older MK I honing came with a piece of rubber. This never worked for me as it displaced the rubber and just kinda squirmed in place. The sandpaper seems to be working a lot better.

 

[engineer one]

dc thanks as usual i learn something new everytime i ask you.

i asked rob about the tightening mechanism, because after i bought
mine at aptc in november it was a problem i noticed. given that
there is actually no side support on at least one side when you set it
up, and none at all once you put it on the stone, maybe the
sandpaper trick is the way to go.

although having said that i think like with the tormek tool holder,
there is something to be said for having a piece of metal the thickness
of your blade to put on the other end to ensure that the
blades are held squarely within the jig any jig. :twisted:

having recently used a hilka copy of the eclipse, i have to find a way
to produce a proper bevel setter. since the measurements
don't always give you the angle you want.

paul :wink: